New to me LX570 - general thread (1 Viewer)

TeCKis300

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Weird that you're missing the BT phone connectivity.

An aftermarket BT adapter will solve both music streaming and hands free calling functions. Many on the market. Grom BT3 for Toyota/Lexus should do it.
 
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Weird that you're missing the BT phone connectivity.

An aftermarket BT adapter will solve both music streaming and hands free calling functions. Many on the market. Grom BT3 for Toyota/Lexus should do it.
Thanks @TeCKis300 . If @tbisaacs is correct and my bt module is faulty, would it get removed anyway when installing an aftermarket unit? Do the Grom (or similar) units replace the entire bt module, or do they still rely on the factory module for certain functions?
 

TeCKis300

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It wouldn't remove the stock component. It would create an alternate pathway for handsfree calling functions. The BT3 has its own separate mic.
 
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Is BT audio a source on the audio menu? It’s a backwards way in there as you should see a connect button once selected. Perhaps give that a try.
No, no mention of BT through the audio menu.
 
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So I engaged the Diagnostic Mode to see if there were any errors, assuming I might see one pertaining to the BT module.

IMG-0621.jpg

Can't figure out what the codes on the screen above mean.

IMG-0622.jpg

DTC 45-42 is for "Wrong Disc", meaning someone probably tried to play a burned CD.

IMG-0623.jpg

DTC 01-D6 is for "No master", and could possibly be related.
DTC 01-D7 also a possibility.
DTC 01-DD I don't know what this means but I think it's unrelated.
DTC 01-E0 is for "Registration Complete Indication Error". I assume this is not related.
DTC 01-E1 I don't think amplifier output is the issue. The rest of the audio components seem to work fine.

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IMG-0624.jpg

DTC 01-D5 is for "Absence of Registration Unit"
DTC 01-DB is for "Mode Status Error"
DTC 01-DA is for "No Response Against ON / OFF Command"
DTC 01-D8 is for "No Response for Connection Check"

IMG-0625.jpg


DTC 01-E3 is for "Registration Complete Indication Error"
DTC 01-D6 is for "No Master"
DTC 01-E0 is for "Registration Complete Indication Error"
DTC 01-DC is for "Transmission Error"

I was looking for DTC 57-47 Bluetooth Module Initialization Failed, however I never found it.


So eventually I cleared them all.
IMG-0626.jpg
IMG-0628.jpg


After a restart I got another icon to pop up on the INFO display, but it's the Lexus Parking Assist icon, not the Phone icon! C'mon! Well, it's a start...

IMG-0627.jpg


This is mostly for posterity, and so I can follow along later...
 
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I'm also missing a few pieces of that roof track trim - it's not important and will not cause any leakage. There are threaded bolt holes in those tracks - some are used for your existing roof rails, some are covered. Those are the only "entry points" into the interior, and so long as those are sealed, you won't have water ingress.
I replaced almost all my roof rail trim since the little that wasn't missing was badly faded. It looks like you need 75551-60110 (left hand side). Right hand side is 75551-60111.
BTW, those threaded bolt holes at the front that were not covered due to the missing trim are where the LC roof rails bolt to. In case you haven't found that out yet, the LC rails are about 12" longer than the LX rails and when they build the trucks, they go ahead and put both sets of holes in roof since they are using the same body for both vehicles. You can purchase new (expensive) LC rails or find some used ones that have been taken off an LC and then install them on your LX.

There are a couple of threads floating around on Mud that talk about using the LC rails on a LX and then building DIY rails out of 80/20 aluminum (search for the thread titled "Rood Rack", bad spelling and all :) ). I've built some out of steel rails that are used to hold electrical conduit in large buildings. See pic below of the first bar going of. Planning on painting them black at some point. VERY strong with a lot of holes to attach things to. I've only got a couple of crossbars and still using the LX rails for now. May paint them at some point. However, could probably add 2-3 more crossbars with the LC rails and be $150, all-in. VERY strong, lot of holes to bolt things to and only about $8/crossmember including the Grade 5 hardware. I did have to purchase the wind fairing ($50) because the noise was unbearable.

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Roof Rack.JPG


Regarding whether to replace the trim, I wouldn't worry about it unless you have a lot of people climbing up and looking down at the top of your truck. From what I've seen on here, those pieces disappear all the time, especially if you use an automated car wash.
 
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BTW, those threaded bolt holes at the front that were not covered due to the missing trim are where the LC roof rails bolt to. In case you haven't found that out yet, the LC rails are...
Thanks for the reply and the info/suggestion!
I have an ARB rack on order that I’m waiting on. The whole package was right around $700, which I think is reasonable. There may be a RTT in the future so I wanted something that could eventually serve as a base for it. If there was no RTT planned I would definitely go the LC rail route. I surf longboards and the LX rack is barely long enough to secure a 9’-0” board to without significant overhangs. Does Lexus think LX owners only surf short boards!?


It’s been nearly two months since I’ve ordered it though...still on the boat from Australia apparently!
 
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Thanks for the reply and the info/suggestion!
I have an ARB rack on order that I’m waiting on. The whole package was right around $700, which I think is reasonable. There may be a RTT in the future so I wanted something that could eventually serve as a base for it. If there was no RTT planned I would definitely go the LC rail route. I surf longboards and the LX rack is barely long enough to secure a 9’-0” board to without significant overhangs. Does Lexus think LX owners only surf short boards!?


It’s been nearly two months since I’ve ordered it though...still on the boat from Australia apparently!
Yeah, that's not a bad price at all for what is probably a solid rack. That is one reason why I haven't invested more time/money in my current setup. It'll do for a while but I see a "real" rack sometime in the future.
 
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Thanks @PJL for the later model wheels- I finally had some time to get them mounted. Combined with the wheel spacers I really think they improve the look compared to the chrome OEM wheels.

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Today I tackled the peeling trim above the glovebox. I bought a cheap set of pry tools - can't believe I made it this long without owning a set. Was like 15 bucks on Amazon and they're great. Anyway the trim piece pops out pretty easily. If you're inclined to do this, check out the FSM images below for basic instructions.

Once removed I put it in the oven for a little bit to soften the glue up. A heads up - it's pretty pungent. Between that and the wildfires here in CA I definitely lost some brain cells yesterday. Once softened up the veneer came off more easily, but

I then tried out different paints. I'm still working on this portion to get the correct color. Maybe one day I'll wrap it in leather, but for now I just wanted to remove the eyesore that it was. Now it fades into the background, whereas previously it was a glaring flaw. I found that the finish was not very smooth, so it's actually got a thin layer of bondo drying on it now, and I'll sand and respray again tonight.

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2nd attempt at painting. This time I applied a very thin layer of JBweld across the majority of the surface before painting. I wet sanded down to about 600 grit quite thoroughly, but I am still pretty unsatisfied with the results. Still patchy/splotchy.

Any suggestions for a material I could use to get a nice even finish across the entire thing, before painting?

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Hydrodip it and save yourself the trouble
Not opposed to trying something new, but if I have to leave home to drop this off somewhere, I'd probably just have it wrapped in leather. I think that looks the best, but I was hoping to figure out a reasonable solution from home (hydrodipping, leather stitching, etc I cannot do myself).

leather.jpg
 

Hoosier Daddy

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It isn't clear from your description whether the surface is smooth prior to painting, or if you're trying to fill in imperfections with paint.

Are you using a primer? What paint are you using? What's up with the JB Weld?

If it were me, I'd use several light coats of sandable primer (with wet-sanding in-between) and get it super-smooth. The grey sandable stuff from Rustoleum is good, although I find that the green self-etching primer is best for adhering to surfaces (even plastic). I'd use a coat of green first, then use the gray sandable stuff to get the smoothness you want.

Actually, I'd vinyl wrap that sucker and be done with it. :)

The wheels look great, BTW.
 

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