New (to me) LX 450

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Jul 20, 2016
North Carolina
I just purchased a 1996 LX 450. I should have read this forum first. I have a Yukon Denali and we need a vehicle to haul our dog in. The dog hair is murder on a daily driver. The LX has new leather and lockers, original paint. Very few dings. It runs well at over 200k miles. No rust!

Now the bad: mushy breaks, nonexistent shocks, oil leak, and the ABS light is on. Did I mention over 200k miles?

I'm hoping the shocks and brakes are no problem but after reading this forum I'm not so sure about the brakes. I also assumed the oil leak was taken care of by the recent valve cover gasket replacement by the PO. It looks more like the power steering and possibly something else.

I was able to negotiate the price down but should have gone lower. All this being said I absolutely love this truck. I am thinking about making this my driver and keeping the dog in the Denali.

I plan on repairing the shocks and brakes immediately and just driving it to see if anything else shows up.
Welcome :flipoff2:(Standard mud welcome). I'd go with stock Toy shocks; others here may disagree. Brakes and shocks are easy and not expensive. I installed new front rotors at around 200k on my 80, might be a good idea for yours too?
Good luck with it as these things are addictive and this site is fun to read and helpful when problems arise.
Sounds like normal preventive maintenance is in order. Will you be doing the work or do you have a good local shop that knows toyota's?
Do you plan to take you Lx out on any adventures?
I've ordered Sachs shocks and struts. I got a pretty good deal and had a coupon. I do a lot of work myself, short of pulling engines but have been known to do that.

I live about 30 minutes from uwharrie national forest and I have friends that go there occasionally. There is also a local FJ club around here.

I'm not going to do too much this summer on the truck, too hot here. This fall I'll get a list together.
If you have not done so, go to the 80 series FAQ in this 80 series section & Slee has a great newbe information section also.
If you have not done so, go to the 80 series FAQ in this 80 series section & Slee has a great newbe information section also.
Thanks. I missed the FAQ and was looking for it. It is a PITA to scroll through all these pages when your IPad is freezing up.
Welcome, congratulations and where in NC are you? One strong recommendation is to go here NC- Olde North State Cruisers and introduce yourself as well. There is a very strong group in the state that is always helpful with advise, hand help, etc. You can also join the Old North State Cruisers and go the to all the club activities.

Brakes could need a flushing, easy to do, or lines could be soft, more difficult. ABS light could be the indicator if you get the codes for it. My ABS light has been on since I bought the truck, I gave up in finding what the issue is. Socks are not that hard to do either depending on rusty bolts.
Congrats on your purchase. 200k is nothing to be concerned about. Mine is at 252 and running strong. Oil leaks are not a big deal and I'm adding 2 quarts about every 3,000 miles. If it gets worse I'll think about fixing the timing chain cover gasket. At 203k My front axle was rebuilt, new rotors, all new rubber everywhere under the hood, new diff vent lines, new ignition components and complete fluid changes. I replaced the rear brake pads at 213k and put new pads up front at 242k. The stock pads in the front were only half worn. We just finished an 8,000 mile roundtrip tour of the central southwest and I wouldn't hesitate driving it to Alaska as is. ( well, maybe fix the oil leak and just as a PM install a new starter ). Hey, I'd leave the dog in the Chevy..
I live in the Asheboro area so about an hour and 15 min from Charlotte. I did bleed the brakes - better but not right still. I used a mighty-vac. I'm gonna read the FAQs and see what's up. While I was under there I noticed I need a muffler.

So...... new shocks, muffler, and deep dive into the brakes this weekend.
With 200000 miles your ready to do the power steering hose replacement along with the power steering pump rebuild. Those two items are where some of the most common oil leaks come from. I just did both of those items on my truck, all in all you'll be able to do both jobs yourself in a few hours. If you do a search here on mud, there are many threads that will walk you step by step through each of these jobs. One of the MOST important items you need to buy is a set of FACTORY service manuals for your truck, it's some of the best money you'll ever spend.
Asheboro, lots of local members near you that can help out too. On the brakes, I didn't bleed them, flush them. I use a motive pressure bleeder. Flushed 2 liters to ensure all the old stuff came out, made a world of difference. When you start flushing you the system, start at the further most caliper and open the valve, fluid will come out dark, then clean, then dark again.... Rinse lather repeat. It is amazing how much nasty stuff if in there for probably probably 200K miles of "bleeding". I do it until the fluid is nice and clean like apple juice from each caliper. I did not bother with the LSPV valve.

Import Power Bleeder Kits
Mine seems to be leaking in that area. The rebuild kit from NAPA is quite a bit less expensive than the Toyota kit. Is there a difference?

I have downloaded the manuals for review. It is not as easy to read in this format unfortunately and I think I need to buy a set.
The power steering hose i bought was from Napa, it cost about 150 dollars less then the factory hose does. The power steering pump kit i bought on line from Rock Auto, it's made by Gates. The Gates pump rebuild kit now comes with the large O ring that goes between the pump body, and the engine block, so no need to buy that O ring separate from Toyota. The pump rebuild kit from Toyota, and Gates have the same quality O rings and seal. The only difference between the two kits is price, $15 bucks for Gates, and around $70 for the Toyota kit. Many other Mud members have used the Gates kit, they reported very good results with it. Part numbers = Gates rebuild kit 348407, Napa power steering hose P/N 7-2928, Toyota power steering hose P/N 44411-60430 Toyota power steering hose high pressure gasket P/N 44327 30030
Last edited:
Pics. Welcome.
Thanks. I have bought some inferior kits before and spent more time to do the job twice. Gates makes adequate stuff in my opinion. I will knock this out in a couple of weeks.
so today I flushed the breaks thoroughly and they are much better. I was getting ready to put the Sachs shocks on and 3 of the 4 came without hardware. I was totally bummed. Shipping them back and have the returns on the way.

I did round off the front bleeder screw somewhat. I went to advance and got the replacement and evidently it didn't seat properly. when you stepped on the pedal it wouldn't stop coming out the bleeder screw. Thinking that I may have a bad screw I replaced it and it did the same thing. I put the old one beside the new ones and couldn't tell the difference. I put the old one back in and it is fine.
I saw that thread. I think what I had is a 35mm but it didn't work. It's really going to bother me until I figure it out. I see new calipers down the road. That was an ugly bleeder screw.

Users who are viewing this thread

Top Bottom