new to me 97 lx450 wrench + discover THREAD (1 Viewer)

[landcruiser3DP]

I would be willing to bet that the reason those were capped is that one or both of the heater cores are leaking and they didn't want to pay to replace as there is a lot of work in replacing the front heater core. They are also NLA (No Longer Available) but you can have them rebuilt or buy a good used one.

thanks. so can i ask where these are located? i can try to find them in the fiche but it doesn’t locate much as to where it is in the vehicle.

also, do i go in from the passenger compartment to fix those or do i need to get it on a lift? i’m waiting in the FSM but it would be good to start to get a handle on things.

also. can i please ask where/how i look for leaks for those? just check the carpet? put some cardboard under the engine and let it idle with full heat?

THANKS

 

[BILT4ME]

Front heater is under the passenger side of the dash. Typical leak soaks the passenger front carpet. Have to remove most of the dash and AC to replace this heater core. Worthwhile to remove the hoses you just put on and pressure test the heater core from the underhood firewall side with NO MORE THAN 15 PSI. Can also flush the core from the underhood firewall side as well.

Rear heater is located under the front passenger seat. Typical leaks come out the bottom of the heater or also soaks front and/or rear carpet on passenger side. Easy to remove the passenger seat to do physical inspection. The hard lines run over the transmission between the body and trans.

Can usually detect leaks by sweet maple-syrup smell in cabin when warmed up and carpet is wet and doesn't dry. Windows fog over quickly and easily and have an oily texture to the fog.

Electrical | LAND CRUISER FZJ80L-GNPEKA FJ80,FZJ80 | Toyota | Genuine Parts Catalogs | PartSouq Auto Parts Around the World

 

[TomH]

I would be willing to bet that the reason those were capped is that one or both of the heater cores are leaking and they didn't want to pay to replace as there is a lot of work in replacing the front heater core. They are also NLA (No Longer Available) but you can have them rebuilt or buy a good used one.

My money is still on the HCV being the reason for capping the system. If you look at the condition of the valve there is really no way the hose could have been securely clamped. Also, if you look below the HCV (and use your imagination a little) you can see white residue that could be from a coolant leak. I think the PO was just to cheap to by a new HCV.

Drive it and keep an eye on the coolant level to determine if you are still losing fluid.

Just to follow up on what I said about mixing 50/50 coolant and distilled water, it can be done but reduces the effectivity of the coolant. If you are in an are prone to freezing then you should check the current condition of the coolant. You can get a coolant hydrometer at you local auto parts store. Check it after you've put some miles on the truck to make sure the fluids are all mixed. Also continue with your plan to do a complete flush in the near future.

 

[landcruiser3DP]

hi gents,
so i hope it goes without saying if i can ever return a favor like the help here i hope i get the chance.
so from the sounds of the input i will clean the interior of the car (like front windshield which has been misted with what i thought was an oily residue) and keep an eye on any future accumulation.
i will also keep an eye on the coolant level in the radiator but /also/ possibly put some clean cardboard overnight under the passenger seat (?) on the ground to see if any lines are leaking there?
then also keep an eye on the interior carpet in front of, under, and behind the passenger seat. then pull the passenger seat for good measure if nothing shows up or if i have some energy to burn off.
i appreciate the ongoing excellent help and also the posted fiche (/thanks/).
spoke to blackstone this morning and they seem to like the oil sample results which is great. seems i may have overestimated the mileage of the oil in there since it may have been changed in the interim but they seem unconcerned about this. in any event no nasties in there which is really great.
i DO understand i can do a pressure test if my off the books toyota mechanic comes through.
one thing i am missing though is whether i should i turn the heat on to check for leaks. i’m guessing this is self evident and the answer is yes?
THANKS a ton
jonathan

 

[BILT4ME]

hi gents,
so i hope it goes without saying if i can ever return a favor like the help here i hope i get the chance.
so from the sounds of the input i will clean the interior of the car (like front windshield which has been misted with what i thought was an oily residue) and keep an eye on any future accumulation.
i will also keep an eye on the coolant level in the radiator but /also/ possibly put some clean cardboard overnight under the passenger seat (?) on the ground to see if any lines are leaking there?
then also keep an eye on the interior carpet in front of, under, and behind the passenger seat. then pull the passenger seat for good measure if nothing shows up or if i have some energy to burn off.
i appreciate the ongoing excellent help and also the posted fiche (/thanks/).
spoke to blackstone this morning and they seem to like the oil sample results which is great. seems i may have overestimated the mileage of the oil in there since it may have been changed in the interim but they seem unconcerned about this. in any event no nasties in there which is really great.
i DO understand i can do a pressure test if my off the books toyota mechanic comes through.
one thing i am missing though is whether i should i turn the heat on to check for leaks. i’m guessing this is self evident and the answer is yes?
THANKS a ton
jonathan

Yes. Turn everything on to see what works and what doesn't.

That's how the rest of us do it.

Then we make a list, start gathering parts, storage spaces, extra land, tools, lifts, creepers, welders, plasma cutters, beer refrigerators............

 

[landcruiser3DP]

Yes. Turn everything on to see what works and what doesn't.

That's how the rest of us do it.

Then we make a list, start gathering parts, storage spaces, extra land, tools, lifts, creepers, welders, plasma cutters, beer refrigerators............

ok. blows hot and blows freaking cold. but if i don’t turn the heat and keep it on i am unlikely to find a heater core leak i guess. dumb question but i’m learning...

 

[landcruiser3DP]

hi gents

Yes. Turn everything on to see what works and what doesn't.

That's how the rest of us do it.

Then we make a list, start gathering parts, storage spaces, extra land, tools, lifts, creepers, welders, plasma cutters, beer refrigerators............

hi gents,
thanks. so it does look like a heater core. passenger side floorboard is wet. rear passenger side seems fine.
any suggestions or advice?
i found this one from 2012 searching google for “heater core ih8mud” and it links to one other i need to print out.
looks massive for DIY new auto wrench...
thanks
jon
any good way for me to verify for certain it is coolant and not water?
Heater Core Replacement

 

[BILT4ME]

hi gents

hi gents,
thanks. so it does look like a heater core. passenger side floorboard is wet. rear passenger side seems fine.
any suggestions or advice?
i found this one from 2012 searching google for “heater core ih8mud” and it links to one other i need to print out.
looks massive for DIY new auto wrench...
thanks
jon
any good way for me to verify for certain it is coolant and not water?
Heater Core Replacement

View attachment 1854185

Yes, it's a huge, time consuming job. It's not HARD, it's just that you must be VERY organized, meticulous, and have LOTS of time. I would guess about 16 hours to R/R for an experienced mechanic. 2 to 3 times that for inexperience and having to start/stop multiple times.

 

[landcruiser3DP]

Yes, it's a huge, time consuming job. It's not HARD, it's just that you must be VERY organized, meticulous, and have LOTS of time. I would guess about 16 hours to R/R for an experienced mechanic. 2 to 3 times that for inexperience and having to start/stop multiple times.

charles maund in ATX is saying 10 or 11 hours. $450 for the core as parts plus a couple hard lines if needed.

i’m going to try to research what i need done as a while you are in there work. anyone know?

i’ve got this thread to go through and someone was kind enough to document their job on flickr.

'94 heater core R/R - done

any way to verify for sure it is coolant on the floor?

i guess part of the deal is there are lots of plastic parts and they break easily. so doing the job in winter as opposed to summer is not ideal. plus it is a PITA so not many want to deal with it...

by the way, if anyone needs actual service at the dealership in ATX kevin coyne is super helpful and gets it. so don’t hesitate to get with him for toyota service...

- jonathan

 

[landcruiser3DP]

ALSO. anyone know how to check the DRAIN TUBE for the heater core? the guys are telling me to check that and the roof drains first...

 

[TomH]

You need to find where the water is coming from - could be heater core, could be sunroof drains or as you said could be AC drain tube. Saw one case on here where the drain tube was pulled inside the cab. The tube should exit on the passenger side fire wall. Best way to find the source of the leak is to pull the carpet back or remove it temporarily while you dry it out.

 

[BILT4ME]

The heater core drain tube (Actually the AC drain tube) is out the front of the firewall on the lower right side (right side being as you sit in the driver's seat) and it is behind a bit of a shield. You can see it from under the hood if I recall correctly and you can hit it with a hose to force water in and let it drain out to help clean it.

The sunroof drain tubes should come down the A-pillar (inside it) and you can see where it passes through when you remove the kick panel on the floor of the front seats. There is about a 1/2" dia black thin wall tube that goes through there and down into the rocker panel. The tube is supposed to be through the floor and NOT drain into the inside of the cabin on the floor.

 

[landcruiser3DP]

You need to find where the water is coming from - could be heater core, could be sunroof drains or as you said could be AC drain tube. Saw one case on here where the drain tube was pulled inside the cab. The tube should exit on the passenger side fire wall. Best way to find the source of the leak is to pull the carpet back or remove it temporarily while you dry it out.

thanks man...

 

[landcruiser3DP]

The heater core drain tube (Actually the AC drain tube) is out the front of the firewall on the lower right side (right side being as you sit in the driver's seat) and it is behind a bit of a shield. You can see it from under the hood if I recall correctly and you can hit it with a hose to force water in and let it drain out to help clean it.

The sunroof drain tubes should come down the A-pillar (inside it) and you can see where it passes through when you remove the kick panel on the floor of the front seats. There is about a 1/2" dia black thin wall tube that goes through there and down into the rocker panel. The tube is supposed to be through the floor and NOT drain into the inside of the cabin on the floor.

ok. got it.

there is some question between the land cruiser guys here in town and the toyota dealership regarding difficulty if i have to do a heater core.

do you happen to know if you can get into the late 80’s series easier than some of the others?

someone was telling me it is 5 hours labor and someone else is saying 11 hours. that’s a huge difference but i am guessing it is more like 11 hours and the whole dash is coming out? i mean i would have to double or triple that but it affects how i tackle it if it is in fact the heater core.

 

[BILT4ME]

All of the 80's are essentially the same in regards to that.

It's a lot of fricking work.

Pick the guy that'll do it for 5 hours work and quote a firm, non-escalating price. Fully repaired and out the door. Then let him do it and lose the money and time.

 

[TomH]

The two lines you identified are the metal lines that go through the firewall and connect to the rubber hoses by the HCV. The heater core is like the radiator in that it is all metal and could be leaking anywhere so you aren’t looking for a failed hose. If the heater core is leaking it needs to be removed and replaced. I’m not saying the heater core isn’t leaking (even though I put my money on the HCV), I’m just saying I wouldn’t spend the time and effort to remove/replace until I was sure that was the source of the leak.

If you pull the carpet back you may be able to see a water path. Even then, you need to be sure it is coming from the heater core. Do you know if the windshield has been replaced? If it has and the installer didn’t use sealant on the gasket, then that is another potential leak point and it could drip down right by the heater core. Have you driven it the rain lately?

 

[landcruiser3DP]

hi gents.

/appreciate/ the help. also the clues. i love a good mystery (sort of).

i got the lexus FSM manual just now so i will read up on A/C / heater core and the roof drains tomorrow morning. i will also chunk through this thread: '94 heater core R/R - done and print this one out.

looks like i will park it under a carport and get after it this weekend.
-
questions:
1. pulling the carpet up just means i am taking apart panels where it connects at the seams? and it is attached slightly to the floor so i should be careful about tearing up the insulation?
2. where is the kick panel for the roof drain? at the passenger right foot? where is the rocker panel please? same place?
3. i assume the passenger seat comes off when i pull the carpet? how far do i pull the carpet?
-
items:
1. it has rained out here since i got it i believe. i have also washed the exterior and interior since i got it with a hose. went through the topside and underside of the engine with green brillo pads. i have /also/ pressure washed the engine. tried to stay off the distributor cap and similar items but i am sure i gave the fire wall a very good blast. in retrospect i would leave out the pressure wash next time i guess.
2. wetness is as indicated in the image. but i would /not/ say it smells sticky or feels at all like the stuff that was accumulating on the windshield.
3. windshield was not replaced by me and it is in rough shape so i assume it has been there awhile. inspection sticker is a year old. but obviously it could be leaking.
-
history:
1. heater control valve and hoses were reconnected.
2. radiator and overflow were filled with 50/50 coolant and it leaked under the engine. so radiator core was visible again.
3. radiator was "topped off" with distilled water.
4. found a leak at the small hose that runs directly from the radiator to the stub at the engine. fixed that. started the engine, let it idle until the thermostat was thought to be open. the radiator remained full and there were no leaks.
5. thoroughly cleaned the inside of windshield from coolant last night.
6. ran it today with heat on.
7. found the wet carpet passenger side this morning when i pulled the carpet mat.
-
to do:
1. check roof drains from inside of moonroof by blowing compressed air into it.
2. check roof drain at passenger side by making sure it runs through the floor.
3. pull passenger side carpet and try to track leak.
4. pull passenger side seat and verify rear heater core is not leaking.
5. verify AC drain runs though the firewall and is draining properly outside the vehicle.

not sure if i am missing anything but wanted to post what i believe i need to tackle so i am not missing anything.

THANKS

jon

 

[landcruiser3DP]

working on a final parts list while i troubleshoot.

not sure if anyone is familiar enough with the fiche or can comment on what i might consider adding or subtracting. i've actually got a much larger list of items based upon forum thread and items that caught my eye but this is the edited version. if anyone wants to see the full on OCD version let me know and i'll post it.

obviously anything that can be had used i would be interested in sourcing.

and would anyone mind straightening me out on this BLUE fan clutch assembly? is this aftermarket?

PARTS ORDER

12-01 ventilation hose
12204 ventilation valve
[ ] 12204-35040 ($17)
12204A grommet for ventilation valve
[ ] 90480-18001 ($5)
12262 ventilation hose No. 2
[ ] 12262-66021 ($26.23)

15-02 oil filter
15600 oil filter
[ ] 90915-20002 ($15)
15600A union for oil filter
[ ] 90404-19015 ($15)

16-01 water pump
16210 fluid coupling assembly
[ ] 16210-66010 ($350)

16-03 radiator and water outlet
16401 radiator cap
[ ] 16401-71010 ($21.90)
16331A wax type (opening temperature - fully open temperature) 82 - 95
[ ] 90916-03117 ($45.57)
16341 water outlet gasket
[ ] 16341-66020

22-11 fuel injection system
23300P fuel filter (for EFI)
[ ] 23300-69045 ($56.19)
22271 throttle body gasket
[ ] 22271-66010 ($9.51)

48-02 front axle arm and steering knuckle
48654 lower arm bush (2X)
[ ] 48061-60010 ($56.85)
58702A leading arm No.1 bush sub-assembly (4X)
[ ] 48702-60050 (57.76)

52-53 hood and front fender
53341C hood insulator clip (12X)
[ ] 90467-09014 ($0.91)

67-51 front door panel and glass
67601A front door trim board retainer
[ ] 67771-12050 red (16X) ($2.06)
[ ] 67771-30090 yellow (10X) ($2.33)

67-56 rear door lock and handle
69140 (CH) rear door lock (CH) activator assembly
[ ] 69140-60010 ($133)

71-52 seat belt
73220 front seat outer belt assembly (LH)
[ ] 73220-60270 EO ($124)

86-04 antenna
86337 sealed with cable rod and pipe
[ ] 86337-3360080 ($66.66)

 

[landcruiser3DP]

hi gents
quick question here please?
am i correct in thinking i can run this thing with no issues as long as i don’t run the heater? meaning i could manually dry out the carpet with a fan, get the code fixed and get it registered? this way the heater control valve is hooked up and the leaking hose to the radiator is fixed.
then i could check out everything related to drains (roof and heater core) and possibly turn on the heat? and if i find a leak i have isolated it to the front or rear heater?
thanks
jon

 

[landcruiser3DP]

The heater core drain tube (Actually the AC drain tube) is out the front of the firewall on the lower right side (right side being as you sit in the driver's seat) and it is behind a bit of a shield. You can see it from under the hood if I recall correctly and you can hit it with a hose to force water in and let it drain out to help clean it.

The sunroof drain tubes should come down the A-pillar (inside it) and you can see where it passes through when you remove the kick panel on the floor of the front seats. There is about a 1/2" dia black thin wall tube that goes through there and down into the rocker panel. The tube is supposed to be through the floor and NOT drain into the inside of the cabin on the floor.

hey B4M, Tom, all.

what i am hearing is the AC drain hose is for condensate in warm weather when running the AC. you are saying you can clear this hose (or test it i guess) by forcing water up into it from the engine side of the firewall? i think if you can access it like this it is going to be from under the vehicle. but also where is it draining /to/ if you force water up into it? back out through the drain i guess?

but more importantly - roof drains are clear and this AC drain hose /does/ protrude from the fire wall.

so i am going to do a radiator pressure test. heater control valve full open (which i guess is all the way to the left i think), then pump it up to 17 PSI or something and see if it drops more than one or two PSI?

but i am ALSO just going to run the heater. any ideas /where/ on the carpet i should see the heater core leak?! right now i am see it on the far /right/ DS floor. which i thought was where the blower was. i’m assuming after running it i may smell some coolant or be able to feel it but since i didn’t drain the coolant i think there may be some water in there.

not totally sure how this works but it will sometimes freeze down here.

anyway, i think i already know where i am going with this but thoughts?

THANKS