New to me 86 fj60. What to do first!? (1 Viewer)

[Hedless]

Recently bought this beauty, but im new to carborated engines. The interior is in great shape (aside from being a mouse hotel) but there is a fair bit of rust on the underside. A little bit lost and overwhelmed on where to start. I did remove the carpet and seats to expose and rust hiding on the floor.

Aside from that i could use some direction. I have ordered the rebuild kits for the power steering pump, the front knuckles, and a bunch of bushings that i just assume are toast from it sitting for 5-8 years. Any input would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks for your time,
Hedless

 

[Seth S]

Change the oils. Engine. Diffs. Transmission and transfer case. Do an ignition tuneup. Change the air and fuel filter. Pull the wheels and check the brakes. Check the front wheels for bearing play and adjust the bearing preload if needed. You might need to rebuild the knuckles but can drive a bit to see how things are before going to crazy.

 

[Skniper]

^^ This. Baseline it, and drive it, pay attention to it's noises...just get to know it.

 

[g-man]

Check out the FAQs sticky thread above the yellow line on page 1 of the 60s forum. Also the "how to videos" thread.

Just looking at your vehicle (in case you didn't know) it's partially de-smogged, still has the EGR and probably the stock distributor but removed are the air rail, and likely the smog pump was replaced with and idler pulley, no ABV, and removed are just about all the vacuum lines with the exception of the distributor advancer vacuum line. De-smogged engines come with issues unless they were done right. I mean distributor advance curve and timing issues. Carb burning too rich etc. Removing the smog pump isn't a bad thing if your not being smog tested. I mean they are notorious for seizing and leaving you without a fan belt.

You prob know that you have an aftermarket carb and air cleaner.

Those yellow plug wires look kinda wonky. Especially the long coiled up coil to dizzy wire. I'd replace them with some Yazaki green wires. I think ToyotaMatt sells them.

It's commonly known that the Toyota p.s. pumps are not easily rebuildable. Most just buy another. New toyota p.s. pumps are still available but pricey. Many including myself have switched to GM saginaw power steering pump due to in part to more power and the cost being about 1/10th that of toyota. Like $60 instead of $600. A modification is required to the bracket ..ie cutting the bracket and using adapters.

A guy named Georg at Valley Hybrids a specialty shop in CA has developed the adaptation. Here is Georg's conversion info:

Finally!!!! Saginaw PS pump conversion kit for FJ60s!!!!! - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/finally-saginaw-ps-pump-conversion-kit-for-fj60s.906031/

I'd jack up the front end and see if the front wheels have any slop side to side, also up and down. If they are tight I would hold off on the knuckle rebuild for now. Unless you have gear oil running down the inside of the front tires. (from a loose knuckle/birf banging the axle seal) It's normal for a little grease and caked up dirt on the knuckle after years of driving and it's not going to hurt to hold off on this repair.

Check all the fluids including the coolant and oil. Drive it, short drives at first, keeping an eye on the temps and oil pressure and listening to the engine. It will let you know what it needs.

 

[batthewmrown]

It's commonly known that the Toyota p.s. pumps are not easily rebuildable. Most just buy another. New toyota p.s. pumps are still available but pricey. Many including myself have switched to GM saginaw power steering pump due to in part to more power and the cost being about 1/10th that of toyota. Like $60 instead of $600. A modification is required to the bracket ..ie cutting the bracket and using adapters.

I think I paid $325 for my OEM pump from McGeorge Toyota, fwiw. No bracket mods and, not that it really matters, looks way better. Nothing like seeing that little “Toyoda” cap when you pop the hood.

My PS pump was loud and leaking when I bought it but PO was running PS fluid in it and not ATF like it calls for. I bled the system and swapped it to ATF and ran it for almost 3 more years before I put in the new pump, so you may want to try that first.

 

[OSS]

Decide what's most important to you, make a list in decending order then start at item 1

 

[Hedless]

Holy cow, thanks for all the input. Ti.e to start doing research and digging into what was mentioned. Thanks a ton For the info, i have a heading to shoot for now.

 

[ntdb]

Remove the vinyl covers from the rear wheel wells and check those for rust as well. Some of my worst rust spots are next to the seat hinges.

 

[sogafarm]

What everyone else said plus include a valve adjustment and timing check to make it run like a sewing machine.

 

[BaristaBoy]

If you gotta rebuild your PS pump, you probably need to rebuild your steering box too. the Saginaw's a great option (drove my first 60 with a Saginaw pump last week, its a big upgrade)

but both of these are putting way more pressure through a old box with old seals, It's almost certain to leak. inspect your box carefully, if you can see fluid leaking from it, if its really crusty/grimy, if you have lots of play in the steering wheel, its likely time for that too.
(I'm going through this too, hah)


Most importantly, get to know the truck and have fun! That's already a sweet lookin cruiser, a bit of love and it'll really come to life. If you need the FSM's pm me, I'll send you my google drive with a bunch of them.