New to me 80 build/tech assistance request (2 Viewers)

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Hello all eighty series guru's! I'm the proud owner of '94 eighty and have been grinding out getting everything dialed in. I'm at a point now where I'm not finding what I'm looking for and it is possible my lack of computer savvy is causing my issue. So if I'm trying to find help on something and it's already out there please point me to the correct thread. I'm going to post the thread I started in our club section for background if anyone wants to see what I've done so far:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/ca-jefferson-state-cruisers/708509-new-me-80-a.html

So now I'm looking to solve a few more issues and also looking for some direction on prioritizing them. My fuel millage is still suffering (getting about 8 mpg on the road), and I have what can best be described as a whine coming from the engine. As far as the whine is concerned I have replaced the alternator, removed the idler pulley, and I'm not running the AC belt (yet). I'm thinking that leaves the water pump, but I don't know that I've ever had a bearing whine from a water pump... I'm also getting coolant leakage from the "goose neck", from the top of water pump to the side of engine block. As far as other fluid leaks I don't have any leakage from the top half of the motor, but seem to be leaking from everything underneath...oil pan, front and rear (assuming main seals). Also have noticed a bit of a knock but not hammering so I'm thinking that will just be something to check out while I have the pan off. Okay now that I've rambled a bit I'll try to sum it up more concisely:

-TPS code 41 (and poor fuel milage) I can't find a thread or other info on trouble shooting and resolving this on an obd1 truck. My FSM and the threads I've found have the procedure but require readings from OBD2. If there is a thread please direct me, if not advice is welcome.

-Whine, assumed water pump?

-Minor coolant leak, pooling on top of water pump.

-Quiet knock, from bottom of motor that quiets after some time (~15 min.)

-Oil Leaks front rear and bottom.

-AC, no receiver or lines from driver side inner fender all the way to compressor.

-Straighten steering wheel, remove from steering shaft, adjust connecting rod, or pull wheel and put back on?

-Resolve exhaust leak and eventually get manifold to machine shop to have sheared studs drilled and tapped, and have buggered threads repaired.

Okay so I think that is pretty much my list in order of what I find to be a priority. AC is a little farther down the list than I'd like it to be, but I'm concerned I may have to disconnect lines to complete one of my other issues. Also as far as the AC is concerned I'm planning to have a local AC shop build custom lines, replace the "receiver" and charge the unit. If sticking with OEM is better than relocating the "receiver" and running custom lines lemme know.
 
When most people say "whine", it usually means power steering pump. Coolant leak should be quick and easy to fix with a little effort to see where the leak is coming from. Clean it off and use brake cleaner as the final rinse to make it extra clean. The leak will become obvious. Any good alignment shop will center the steering wheel when they do the job. Big enough exhaust leak will keep the O2 sensors from functioning correctly and may be the source of your poor gas MPG.

Sounds like it is time for a "small" money/time injection to knock out some of the little things before tackling the bigger oil pan work. Ain't it great...:cheers:
 
Thank you for the suggestion. I didn't want to re post what I'd already done and come across as redundant. I covered those bits in the thread I started over in our club section. But yes the power steering pump has been rebuilt, I replaced all of the lines, and then rebuilt the steering gear as well. The O2 sensors have been relocated to the manifold and I don't think the leak is bad enough or close enough to affect the millage that drastically.
 
Not absolutely sure on the 94s, but later year 80s have the AC drier in a vulnerable spot where a well-placed rock can take it out. Maybe that's what happened to yours? There were JDM factory lines that could relocate it at one time, but IIRC they are no longer available. Relocation and custom bent lines are what people do, so your plan is good there.

As for leaks underneath, I won't say they're acceptable, but they are very typical. Unless it's slap your head obvious what's leaking where, might be a good idea to just clean things up and determine whether it's worth tearing into right now or can be safely put off for another day when there are other reasons to correct any deficiencies.
 
It was mashed in the front drivers side fender and bumper before making it to me so that's what eliminated that section of AC components. Thanks for the conformation that is the right direction for me to go there. As for the leaking definitely not enough to be fatal, or detrimental. I just would rather not be dribbling oil along the trail or in my driveway. More cosmetic than anything honestly. I can see that it's leaking randomly around the pan. I can also see it is running down the front (looks like from behind the crank pulley) as well as from between the trans and block.

The leak and knock are something I'd like to have a better idea about before tearing in because my pop lives in Coos Bay and has proper shop complete with drive on lift and two role away's, air, ... So I'd like to buy the parts I'll need then drive to CB and tear into it. If I have it apart and have to wait for parts that makes things more difficult...
 
FWIW, Knolly is good mechanic and can spin a wrench. I sold him this truck with the unknowns (He didn't get screwed by any means;) ). He is new to 80 series and trying to track down some of the issues. I'm at loss technically and suggest he started a build/help thread here in specific origin of the 80. We have some great talented (including him) guys in our club; but there is some odd stuff with the truck.
 
the whine could be the use of the wrong belts. The aftermarket ones with cog style releifs whine like crazy.

New OEM belts came with and been installed minus the ac compresor.
 
Thanks Ty!

So does anyone know how to set/test tps on a 1994? This is my pressing concern and first problem I need to remedy.
 

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