New to land cruisers (1 Viewer)

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I've done the following to my 2001 in this order:

iPod Adapter (bought from Crutchfield)
Tires (33's)
Replaced the running boards with Slee Sliders
Suspension (OME +1.5")
Slee Rear Bumper

I'd like to do a Slee Front Bumper and Winch next, but it has been easy to back-burner that project.
 
i really want to get an arb front bumper soon.
stereo is first + taking of the running boards.

i think i may know someone who can custom fab a roof rack for me for real cheap, im taking a tank this weekend and removing the props from his 85 foot boat. could always use a favor lol.
 
Nice truck, and welcome! Depending on your use you could put sliders further down the list. If you're just dirt road driving with no concern of bashing the rockers on stuff, then the money for sliders can go to other stuff.

You can lift the truck fairly cheaply and in stages, see 2000UZJ's build for that. Build it for your use and how you want it to look.
 
laxaholic said:
how cheaply can you lift and with what brand?

who has good deals on the arb?

Crank torsion bars.
Replace stock springs with OME.
Or put 20mm spacers o the factory springs.


Searchity search search!
 
who has good deals on the arb?

Most of the shops are fairly competitive in prices and all drop ship from ARB in WA. So, support someplace local. If not, go with someone like Kurt at Cruiser Outfitters, he's a stand up guy and awesome Cruiserhead.
 
I've done the following to my 2001 in this order:

iPod Adapter (bought from Crutchfield)

Hey... what did you buy from Crutchfield to integrate the iPod? I just got off the phone with one of their sales guys who said they've got nothin. Do you have a part number?

Thanks!
 
Can you hear the antenna motor working? There is an OEM non-powered one available... but, afaik, not for the US market.
 
i don't understand what all that means? is it cheap?

the 100 uses a torsion bar IFS system.
Torsion bar suspension - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

They are adjustable via adjuster bolt and some basic tools. Lift the front of your 100 off the ground (use jack stands of course) and turn the adjuster bolt. This changes the amount of ride height you have. The amount of lift you have depends on the condition of the torsion bars ( a rig with 300K may have .5" of lifting ability, whereas a brand new rig may have a full 2.5" worth of cranking left. It's similar to a paper clip, it will resist when you twist it, but after a while it will weaken after many little bends within a certain range. Torsion bars do age, they do sag). I had 93K on mine and was able to lift the front a full 2". If you cannot get the desired height to level your rear you can "re-index". It's pretty much removing the slack out of the bolt and "cranking" down on the bar harder to make it lift more. You can only do this so much before you run into issues. You are limited to 2.75" of lift upfront, or a minimum of 60mm of downtravel (little over 2", and yes, you need those 2"). Lots of people think the more you crank the torsion bar the harder the ride gets. This does not change the spring rate, the spring rate is determined by the thickness (millimeters) of the bar.

This is not a 100 Series but it gives you an idea on what to look for:
0902tr_06_z+2004_nissan_frontier+torsion_bar.jpg


The torsion bars go from the middle of the 100 (right by the trans cross member on each side of the frame, a massive jumble of senseless looking things and a huge bolt).


As for the rear, lifting that is much easier, replacing the rear coils (springs). There are many different coils you can choose from. If you want a 2" lift but do not plan on carrying anything extremely heavy than go with a lighter rated spring. If you want drawers, rear bumper, long range fuel tank then go with a heavier duty spring. Here is the chart from Sleeoffroad.com - Toyota SUV Off-Road Outfitters

'98-'07 Toyota Land Cruiser

Rear
OME865 | 2" | 0-200 lbs
OME866 | 2" | 200-300 lbs
OME863 | 3" | 300-500 lbs
SOF2RH | 2" | 300-500 lbs

I have the OME 866 springs with drawers and a stock rear bumper, it rides fabulous. I carry about 250lbs in the back constant and up to 400lbs loaded when going camping. I am also using the factory torsion bars.


Spring spacers are pucks, like wheel spacers that push your wheels further out, these go between the spring and the frame, lifting the rear end. Pretty simple.

Let me know if you have any other questions. That should give you a basic amount of information.
 
im going to change out the stereo stuff this week, have any of you guys done it? any pictures?
 
Well, weird, personally I think removing the running boards is not neccessary. But its prersonal preference. I went with a 33 inch Yokohama Geolandear tire and it automatically raised me up about an inch. If your looking for good fuel economy, raising it is just the opposite of what you want to do. I get about 12 MPG and have driven tens of thousands of miles from Colordao to all directions. I also kept up just fine with a FJ Cruiser built up with 35 inch tires in a boulder field. And I do not have a front locker. The rig is pretty capable as it sits. Gas is just not gonna be great due to it's weight and permanent 4WD. Personally, I'd drive it a few months before jumping in and doing mods. Give it some thought, and determine what you REALLY want to do. I added bull bar, and tail light guards, matched the tint darker all around, and that was all. I did a k & N air filter for a while but it got WORSE gas mileage with it.
 
drop the running board is by far the easiest and cheapest upgrade you'll do, trust me.

This pic is the result of the slee 2.5'' lift with 285/65/18 on tundra wheels. Pure sexyness as far as i am concerned. But the other posters are correct, springs and crankin the TB is cheaper and will get you additional height.



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