hi guys new to diesels and im looking at buying a 1983 toyota landcruiser 2h diesel with 360,000kms just wondering wat to look for with diesel engines
new to diesels
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I know some would disagree, but that's a lot of kms for a 2H. I'd want a compression check, test drive, look for smoke. Listen for any unusual knocks, unfortunately it's difficult to discern with all the rest of the rattling going on 
My old 2H bit the bullet with 260,000kms (with turbo) my current 2H has a knock that worries me, this motor has around 300,000 on it. Of course, the turbo isn't helping the longevity.
GG
My old 2H bit the bullet with 260,000kms (with turbo) my current 2H has a knock that worries me, this motor has around 300,000 on it. Of course, the turbo isn't helping the longevity.
GG
rchalmers3
I speak Toyota
Hi,
I'd do some basics:
1) Look for excessive crankcase blow-by by pulling the valve cover breather hose off the TB and let the warmed engine idle. If there's more than a wisp of blowby you will need to consider some major overhauling.
2) With the engine warmed up and idling, check the exhaust for an even flow and note the sound. You are checking for pulses indicating a miss. A diesel misses for some of the same reasons as gassers: Bad or improper fuel delivery and poor compression.
3) Listen for other engine noises (rod knock, piston slap, valve train clatter) during idle, accelleration, de-accelleration and raised constant speed.
4) Watch for excessive black, blue or grey smoke while being driven. It's a good idea to follow the truck with someone else driving it for this observation.
5) Road test for feel, sound and power.
6) For me, if all the above check out, I'm happy. Mechanical compression tests can give false indications of problems and are not indicators of the dynamic operational condition, so I don't usually bother with performing them unless there's a problem.
Oil leaks are remedied by the same techniques as gassers, so nothing diesel specific there.
Not motor related, but still specific to diesels: There's a vacuum pump providing vacuum for brake assist. The pump is located on the back of the alternator. Make sure the brakes are getting good vacuum by pressing and releasing the brake pedal about ten times in succession. If the failure light stays out and the brakes still feel normal (dosen't go hard) you should be OK.
Diesels are throttled by the amount of fuel injected. So your throttle cable is connected to the diesel injection pump, vs the throttle butterfly in the carb on a gasser. I'm still getting my head around this concept, but then I always sat at the back of the class!
Hope this helps!
Rick
I'd do some basics:
1) Look for excessive crankcase blow-by by pulling the valve cover breather hose off the TB and let the warmed engine idle. If there's more than a wisp of blowby you will need to consider some major overhauling.
2) With the engine warmed up and idling, check the exhaust for an even flow and note the sound. You are checking for pulses indicating a miss. A diesel misses for some of the same reasons as gassers: Bad or improper fuel delivery and poor compression.
3) Listen for other engine noises (rod knock, piston slap, valve train clatter) during idle, accelleration, de-accelleration and raised constant speed.
4) Watch for excessive black, blue or grey smoke while being driven. It's a good idea to follow the truck with someone else driving it for this observation.
5) Road test for feel, sound and power.
6) For me, if all the above check out, I'm happy. Mechanical compression tests can give false indications of problems and are not indicators of the dynamic operational condition, so I don't usually bother with performing them unless there's a problem.
Oil leaks are remedied by the same techniques as gassers, so nothing diesel specific there.
Not motor related, but still specific to diesels: There's a vacuum pump providing vacuum for brake assist. The pump is located on the back of the alternator. Make sure the brakes are getting good vacuum by pressing and releasing the brake pedal about ten times in succession. If the failure light stays out and the brakes still feel normal (dosen't go hard) you should be OK.
Diesels are throttled by the amount of fuel injected. So your throttle cable is connected to the diesel injection pump, vs the throttle butterfly in the carb on a gasser. I'm still getting my head around this concept, but then I always sat at the back of the class!
Hope this helps!
Rick
Welcome, glad to see another person who has caught the diesel bug.
Compression test , leak down test, maintainence history, at those KM if the injectors have not been checked or rebuilt they probably need it. Pull the drain plugs on the diffs, transmission, transfer case, and the oil pan, see if good oil or metal or any thing else. Look for rust, pan, engine, frame, all suspension. See if there are broken springs. Look for leaks water, fuel, oil, ect ect.
Drive it, check if the tranny pops out of any gear when you decelerate, put it in 4 wheel drive and listen if there are any funny noises, vibrations, knocking at turns, pops out of 4 wheel, ect ect.
Enjoy the experience, once bitten by the bug you are lost.
Jim
Compression test , leak down test, maintainence history, at those KM if the injectors have not been checked or rebuilt they probably need it. Pull the drain plugs on the diffs, transmission, transfer case, and the oil pan, see if good oil or metal or any thing else. Look for rust, pan, engine, frame, all suspension. See if there are broken springs. Look for leaks water, fuel, oil, ect ect.
Drive it, check if the tranny pops out of any gear when you decelerate, put it in 4 wheel drive and listen if there are any funny noises, vibrations, knocking at turns, pops out of 4 wheel, ect ect.
Enjoy the experience, once bitten by the bug you are lost.
Jim
the easiest way to know if you have a good 2h is to buy it from someone that lives over a thousand miles away, buy a one way plane ticket to the sellers location. have them pick you up at the airport and then drive the truck back to your house, if it doesn't breakdown on the way home, its a keeper! oh and try and buy it in the middle of the winter, so that its really really cold. worked for me! and I'm all smiles!!
That definitely makes sense....................................................................NOT!
Listen to rchalmers3!!
I think Dudedude is just sharing how excited he is that he bought a nice 2H and what he went through to get it. 360k is a lot of kms...
360k is a lot of kms...
rchalmers3
I speak Toyota
You making fun of me? I drove from Vancouver to San Diego in November, behind the wheel of my '86 "donor"! I think I clocked 1400 miles.
Rick
Hmmm, I've done this route too! BJ42 from Portland, Maine to San Francisco then Portland, Oregon, in February. Was a fun trip and the first time I ever used computer navigation.
It might actually be a better test to buy them a ticket home and have them drive it out. If they make it, it is probably a solid rig.
"Diesels are throttled by the amount of fuel injected. So your throttle cable is connected to the diesel injection pump, vs the throttle butterfly in the carb on a gasser. I'm still getting my head around this concept, but then I always sat at the back of the class!"
In the case of the 2H that is incorrect.. the throttle-cable operates a butterlfly on the intake.. just like a "gasser".. the amount og diesel is governed by the pump.. some pipes from the intake to the injectionpump moves a diafragm to give more or less fuel....
I wouldn't worry to much about it having done 350Kkm.. 500 is not unusual for these engines, and considering that most of them have been around since before 1985, finding one with low km's is almost impossible.. It might not be in perfect shape but will probably run for years still.
Also I think the 2H is such a sweet engine that it's worth a rebuild to give it new life..
In the case of the 2H that is incorrect.. the throttle-cable operates a butterlfly on the intake.. just like a "gasser".. the amount og diesel is governed by the pump.. some pipes from the intake to the injectionpump moves a diafragm to give more or less fuel....
I wouldn't worry to much about it having done 350Kkm.. 500 is not unusual for these engines, and considering that most of them have been around since before 1985, finding one with low km's is almost impossible.. It might not be in perfect shape but will probably run for years still.
Also I think the 2H is such a sweet engine that it's worth a rebuild to give it new life..
Subscribed. Not new to diesels and this thread was still informative. Excellent.
rchalmers3
I speak Toyota
We have different motors, or at least different power control due to different IP configurations.
My motor is Canadian Spec 24v 2H configured for automatic transmission. There is no fuel shut off solenoid or diaphram on the IP.
The motor is throttled by the IP only. There is a vacuum operated butterfly on the intake (where a throttle body usually resides) which is designed to cut the motor only. This system uses vacuum created by the vacuum pump to operate the butterfly via key activated solenoid.
Good news: We can both be correct!
Rick
arnott1t
SILVER Star
I have a 2H with 270 k. Mine has alot of blowby or seems to....more than a wisp for sure. Its turbo'd and runs really well. Milage is good and power is smooth and dependable. The test drive will be the biggest thing. It likely going to burn some oil leak in a few spots and smoke. It is old though so thats ok. The drive and sound would be teh selling points for me.
I also did the one way ticket and drive your new truck home. In hind sight it was dumb. But it was a great trip and the cruiser ran awesome. I bought it from a stand up guy though so I wasn't to worried. Victoria BC to Fort McMurray Alberta.
I also did the one way ticket and drive your new truck home. In hind sight it was dumb. But it was a great trip and the cruiser ran awesome. I bought it from a stand up guy though so I wasn't to worried. Victoria BC to Fort McMurray Alberta.
Well we must be
I wasn't aware of that.. ours are all 24V to, but autos are very rear (I know of 2).. Kinda strange that there are two different systems..
So does your 2H have the EDIC thingy?
Well we must be
I wasn't aware of that.. ours are all 24V to, but autos are very rear (I know of 2).. Kinda strange that there are two different systems..
So does your 2H have the EDIC thingy?
Well well well. I'm learning here just like you Marting.
(Thankyou Rick.)
Until reading this I thought all 2H engines were operated in the same way as my B diesel.
