New to cruisers, not too sure about this

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Apr 29, 2010
Hey everyone, Im Matt, a cruiser & mud noobie,

My truck is a 1986 FJ60, with the 2F

Im addicted to this site, its a good wealth of information, just having a little trouble navigating still....

Last week, I removed my smog pump and installed a jimC pulley. Its in fine and the truck is running just as well. I was curious as when I removed the pump, was there something I maybe was supposed to bypass? I feel the truck may be running a tad rich, but Im not too sure. Maybe I missed a step? I left the entire air switching valves on the fender, and the pipe to exhaust is still there also. I capped the lines on the Air cleaner housing also.

Also, It feels as tho it stutters, like a dead spot sometimes. Ill hit the gas off the line, and it bogs for a second, then takes off.

I also somewhere have a fuel leak. I noticed a wet spot under the hood, by the right side inner fender tub, just below the vacuum diagrams. The lines look dry, as in not wet with fuel. The top of the charcoal cansiter is a little wet? Would fuel get to that?

If someone could give me a little hand, Id appreciate it! Thank you in advance,

Definently more to a desmog than just yanking the air pump, at least to do it right and it run correctly. Do a search and you'll find lots of threads about this.
Good luck and welcome to mud:flipoff2:
X2 on the search. Been there done that. Best thing I've done. However, do it right, get a FSM and study. Mod the EGR tube on the manifold to keep PCV hose, EGR steel tube block off plate, plug air rail ports, recurve dizzy, keep HAC and AC idle up and most of all study and realize not everything under the hood is bad and smog "stuff". Follow the Jim C. vac line schematics you'll find. Don't buy what some will tell you that you will always be chasing problems if you do it! Mine runs better with 175,000 miles than it did when new! And smoggers never run right! The key is do it right, if you are not willing to take the time and $'s it will take then you will chase problems. My .02. Oh Yea, WELCOME TO MUD...
The smog pump adds air to the exhaust so the Catalytic converter can work. Removing the air pump will not effect how the truck runs (lean, rich, etc.). However, without the air pump the CAT won't work and you might smell unburned HC's out the tail pipe that you didn't before.

The smog pump adds air to the exhaust so the Catalytic converter can work. Removing the air pump will not effect how the truck runs (lean, rich, etc.). However, without the air pump the CAT won't work and you might smell unburned HC's out the tail pipe that you didn't before.

Probably why I think Im running rich. I will try to figure out the rest of the desmog this week, Ive been looking but its got me pretty confused. Where can I find a FSM? The dealer?

Thank you guys again-- Matt p.s, Im glad to be here
There is a download available for the FSM, search it. Or if you prefer a hard copy call Toyota direct. It'll be about $125 for all three manuals. The way that it was explained to me is that a dealer pays Toyota the same as the consumer for these. There is an 800 number to call to order them. While you're doing this look up the 800 number for the recalls (don't think they're the same number) and have your VIN handy. Then you can find out if the seal belt or fuel tank recalls have been done or not.
Ah ha. Ok. thank you. What seems to be the problem with the tank and seat belts?

I'm sure I can get back up on this, but if your emissions components work according to their factory designed specifications; put the air pump back on. I don't mean this as a "save the world" speech, but unless your whole emissions system is acting up there is no real reason to "de-smog". I have removed my system because it was affecting the operation of the vehicle and most of the system did not work correctly.

Also if you do de-smog you rig there is a lot more work than simply removing the air pump. Go ahead and do some searches for threads on the de-smog process.

I would start here:

The smog pump adds air to the exhaust so the Catalytic converter can work. Removing the air pump will not effect how the truck runs (lean, rich, etc.). However, without the air pump the CAT won't work and you might smell unburned HC's out the tail pipe that you didn't before.

Just an FYI (for anyone interested)

The air pump's job is to supply oxygen molecules (02) into the exhaust stream either before the catalytic converter or straight to the catalytic converter. In most engines the oxygen is used to cause 2 or 3 reactions. One of the most common reactions is the formation CO2 (carbon dioxide) from CO (carbon monoxide). We all know that CO is bad to breathe in and also depletes the o-zone layer. The other most common reaction occurs between the unburnt hydrocarbon (your fuel) and the oxygen molecules. This reaction results in the formation of CO2 and water (both liquid and vapor). Not to insult anyone's intellect, but to make these reactions happen within our exhaust system we need a catalyst; these reactions would occur to some extent on their own, but the presence of say Platinum helps gives the reaction a place to occur. Think of the catalyst (Platinum, Palladium and Rhodium) as match makers. The only thing a catalyst does is speed up the inevitable.

It's time for me to head to chemistry class. Have a good day.
That's all well and good but I would imagine most vehicles at least 20+ yrs old don't have correctly functioning emissions stuff; if so they likely won't for long. That was reason enough for me to desmog. In my opinion unless you want to spend your time and money forever screwing with emissions stuff you might as well get rid of it(assuming you don't have emissions testing where you live). These trucks run great all over the world without the stuff, you'll be fine too. It's insane how little it takes to have a functioning engine--my engine bay so soooo much cleaner and less cluttered now.

I totally agree with what you're saying. Where I live in Washington if my car is more than 25 years old I don't require and emissions tests; therefore a BETTER option for me was to rid myself of the emissions equipment. I have gained a better flowing system along with a much more simplified vacuum system and much cleaner engine compartment.

Like you said, some people do not have the option of removing the system and then there are other people who could simply fix a small problem with their system. For example lots of people have poorly running 2F engines because of poor vacuum lines. Vacuum lines = simple fix. Before desmogging my engine I noticed that a lot of the vacuum lines where not hooked up correctly. I got my vacuum line education on a Bosch CIS fuel injection system which is not really a fuel injection system (those of you with CIS injection knowledge know what I mean), vacuum lines were everywhere and they mattered.
I'm not sure what the actual law is here in Louisiana but I've never seen or heard of anyone having to go through a smog check. Good thing for me too, although our roads would be much less congested if we did!
Those vacuum lines are a nightmare on the factory 2F, or at least for me; this is the first vehicle I've messed with much that had anything like that. After removing all that stuff a blind monkey could work on this engine! I just didn't want the guy to think the engine would never function correctly without all the stuff on there.
Is the Bosch CIS like the cpi on some gm 4.3s?
I'm not familiar with the GM system you mentioned. Bosch CIS works on the negative pressure caused by the down stroke of the piston. Basically the fuel is sucked out of the injector. It's like a step between electronic fuel injection and a carburetor. There is a fuel distributor that adjusts electronically, but it is by no means an EFI set up. Unfortunately because it is not a true EFI system it uses a lot of vacuum lines. Usually when you become the proud owner of a 1980's VW/AUDI or older you replace the vacuum lines promptly after taking ownership.
Uh, yeah that sounds like something I want no part of!
We've totally hijacked this one...:doh:

For it's time the Bosch CIS was pretty amazing considering it come out in the early 70's :hmm: When the systems get older they usually develop a personality. Like my 86 Quantum. It has an Audi 5 cylinder engine sporting this awesome Bosch system. During a warm up cycle it will flood the engine just enough to make it sputter for about a block down the road...then the rest of the day it's fine.
State laws aside there is a U.S. Federal law that states if the vehicle came with EPA required emissions equipment it is illegal to operate that vehicle on any public highway without the emissions system in place and functioning. It is in pdf form, I found it a day or two ago with a 20 second search. The only reason some states don't have emissions compliance testing is because the Feds haven't required them to do so. Yet. They will sooner or later.
Oh I don't doubt it at all, but I'll deal with it when the time comes. Louisiana is so far behind on everything else so I imagine it will be a while!
Well, It looks like Ill have my hands full for a while with this one.
Don't get overwhelmed; if you take your time it's not as bad as think, just takes time & patience. Lots of help on this board too, don't be afraid to ask more questions. Not everybody will hijack your thread like me and Cliff...:whoops:
Lol ok guys. I appreciate the help. Dont worry about the hijacking....Im guilty of it too

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