New tires ‘75 FJ40 (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Oct 16, 2020
Threads
4
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25
Location
Nashville
Currently have 32 x 11.50 without lift.

In need of new tires and shocks which have been on for 20 years. Obviously seldom driven.

I am looking for a more comfortable ride and I understand truck will ride better with narrower tread (don't do off-road).

Questions:

1. If I increase to a 33 is there any chance it will rub?

2. If I decrease width to 10.5, will this give me what I am looking for or do I need an even narrower tire, 9.50?

3. Can I still use 15 rim, if I go with 10.5 or 9.5?

4. Brand recommended ?

5. recommend shocks as will?

6. Other thoughts?

Thanks
 
Currently have 32 x 11.50 without lift.

In need of new tires and shocks which have been on for 20 years. Obviously seldom driven.

I am looking for a more comfortable ride and I understand truck will ride better with narrower tread (don't do off-road).

Questions:

1. If I increase to a 33 is there any chance it will rub?

2. If I decrease width to 10.5, will this give me what I am looking for or do I need an even narrower tire, 9.50?

3. Can I still use 15 rim, if I go with 10.5 or 9.5?

4. Brand recommended ?

5. recommend shocks as will?

6. Other thoughts?

Thanks

1. Yes. 2.5" lift is pretty much the minimum required to run 33" tires.

2. 9.5' is hard to find these days; 10.5" is the narrowest commonly-available 15" tire.

3. Yes, but some chain tire shops won't mount them because their lawyers told them not to.

4. BF Goodrich, Toyo, and some others still make 15" tires.

5. Bilstein shocks are very popular and likely an improvement over many other brands.

6. If you don't have weak girly-man arms, 10.5" tires are easy enough to turn without power steering.
 
1. Yes. 2.5" lift is pretty much the minimum required to run 33" tires.

2. 9.5' is hard to find these days; 10.5" is the narrowest commonly-available 15" tire.

3. Yes, but some chain tire shops won't mount them because their lawyers told them not to.

4. BF Goodrich, Toyo, and some others still make 15" tires.

5. Bilstein shocks are very popular and likely an improvement over many other brands.

6. If you don't have weak girly-man arms, 10.5" tires are easy enough to turn without power steering.
Hahahaha. No I don’t have girly man arms! Thanks for the advice.

So I take it best to go with 32 x 10.5 and get smaller rims.
 
Where do you think to find that size? What do you mean of smaller rims?
Well I’m flying blind here and know little about what I’m talking.

For sure I’m running 32x11.50. My rims may be 15 but really not sure about that. I’m guessing I’ll have to find a metric size close to what I’m looking for.

Feel free to straighten me out.
 
31/10.50 tires on stock rims = happiness. Just find a local vato shop to mount them.
That size is also the cheapest.....relatively
 
31/10.50 tires on stock rims = happiness. Just find a local vato shop to mount them.
That size is also the cheapest.....relatively
My only concern is that I like what I am running gear ratio wise. I’m afraid that a tire with less circumference will cause me to higher engine RPM.
 
I'd do the OEM 15" wheels and caps. Original rims is a good choice for the original ride height, it is an okay choice for a spring-under-axle lift. Be aware that the rim is only 5.5" wide, and it is a 15" diameter - not really what is found on modern equipment, so the tire choices are a bit narrowed.

You might want to think about a lift kit, as a lifted 40 is tons of fun, even on asphalt. However, lifted isn't really for me, I'm into simplicity, and it keeps the specs for everything from the original brakes to the driveshaft angles, to the steering geometry relevant and essentially balanced.

Tires, well... A bit more subjective. A BFG All-Terrain is a nice shoe on any 4x4. How about a 235/75/R15 in that, or Goodyear Wrangler? Also OEM size/style bias-ply - STA Traxion | H78-15 - https://www.cokertire.com/tires/sta-super-traxion-h78-15.html BTW, I really like my 215/75/R15s with an asphalt tread.

A couple of years ago, I bought some OEM shocks from Toyota. These leaf springs impart more character to the ride, so I doubt that any shock absorber is much more than a band-aid for a bug bite.

Installing a tire on a rim isn't that hard, and the tools aren't anything major.
 
I'd do the OEM 15" wheels and caps. Original rims is a good choice for the original ride height, it is an okay choice for a spring-under-axle lift. Be aware that the rim is only 5.5" wide, and it is a 15" diameter - not really what is found on modern equipment, so the tire choices are a bit narrowed.

You might want to think about a lift kit, as a lifted 40 is tons of fun, even on asphalt. However, lifted isn't really for me, I'm into simplicity, and it keeps the specs for everything from the original brakes to the driveshaft angles, to the steering geometry relevant and essentially balanced.

Tires, well... A bit more subjective. A BFG All-Terrain is a nice shoe on any 4x4. How about a 235/75/R15 in that, or Goodyear Wrangler? Also OEM size/style bias-ply - STA Traxion | H78-15 - https://www.cokertire.com/tires/sta-super-traxion-h78-15.html BTW, I really like my 215/75/R15s with an asphalt tread.

A couple of years ago, I bought some OEM shocks from Toyota. These leaf springs impart more character to the ride, so I doubt that any shock absorber is much more than a band-aid for a bug bite.

Installing a tire on a rim isn't that hard, and the tools aren't anything major.
Thanks. This is very helpful. Some years back I had disc brakes installed and was a night and day difference braking-wise. I very much like the idea of using asphalt tread rather than off-road aggressive tread. Here’s what I have.

51A96E95-CC2C-4E5A-872F-E280C789F3D1.jpeg


052A3AB8-F381-4AE0-8FF7-98C43E4E6A5C.jpeg


868E19ED-3368-42F2-92A9-05FDC2E792F4.jpeg
 
My only concern is that I like what I am running gear ratio wise. I’m afraid that a tire with less circumference will cause me to higher engine RPM.
Going from a 32” to a 31” will only increase your RPM at a given speed by about 3%,
…that’s the difference between 60 and 58 MPH at a given RPM

You’ll probably notice the difference due to the tire width more than the diameter.
 
Going from a 32” to a 31” will only increase your RPM at a given speed by about 3%,
…that’s the difference between 60 and 58 MPH at a given RPM

You’ll probably notice the difference due to the tire width more than the diameter.
Would you agree with my belief that a narrower tread well produce a better ride and easier to steer?
 
I'd generally say a wider tire (for a given radius and load rating) would give a (very slightly) better ride, only because the bigger contact patch would need a lower PSI for the same loading.

Sidewall is likely the biggest driver, though - E's are going to ride a lot stiffer than Cs, etc..
 
33x10.5 BFG MT is the only tire to buy!
 
I'd generally say a wider tire (for a given radius and load rating) would give a (very slightly) better ride, only because the bigger contact patch would need a lower PSI for the same loading.

Sidewall is likely the biggest driver, though - E's are going to ride a lot stiffer than Cs, etc..
Much obliged.
33x10.5 BFG MT is the only tire to buy!
I understand I’d need a 2 1/2” lift?
 
Since you’re willing to consider rims: 235x85x16
 
I understand I’d need a 2 1/2” lift?
Lift will not make any more room for the tires unless you extend the bump stops. You’ll need a lift and extended bump stops for the rear axle, otherwise you’ll bend the rear wheel archs in maximum uptravel position.

I’d consider 235/85R16 (32x9.50”) if lifting is not interested. They’ll fit without lift.
 
***Stick with load range C tires or lighter. Load range D and E are way to stiff for a light weight vehicle. If you are not off road much and go with some metric tires, a "P" metric tire is rated for passenger and are even softer/lighter than load range C. Lighter load rating tire, and lower PSI in the tires, will give a better ride.***

I would highly recommend some Bilstein 5100 series shocks for 0-2" lift, not the 4600 series. You will still feel the road, but the bigger hits that used to break your teeth out at 40-50 mph on a country road will be absorbed MUCH better with the Bilsteins. I would do this first ~$350 or so before you mess with tires. They are easy to install yourself, and will probably do the most to improve the feel of your rig.
 
***Stick with load range C tires or lighter. Load range D and E are way to stiff for a light weight vehicle. If you are not off road much and go with some metric tires, a "P" metric tire is rated for passenger and are even softer/lighter than load range C. Lighter load rating tire, and lower PSI in the tires, will give a better ride.***

I would highly recommend some Bilstein 5100 series shocks for 0-2" lift, not the 4600 series. You will still feel the road, but the bigger hits that used to break your teeth out at 40-50 mph on a country road will be absorbed MUCH better with the Bilsteins. I would do this first ~$350 or so before you mess with tires. They are easy to install yourself, and will probably do the most to improve the feel of your rig.
Very helpful Thanks.
 
Depending on the wheel backspacing, fat tires can rub on the steering drag link. Yes, you can adjust the travel-stop, but...

I used to rub 33s on a 3" lift, on my '73. Right out of the tire shop and on the trail, a new BFG Mud Terrain knob meets the knife like edge of the tub/rear fender. So, I installed the lift, still rubbed. I eventually moved the rear axle 1" back on the spring perch.

You might want to measure the garage door, if you use one, and you anticipate adding a hard top or whatever.
 

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