New Suspension Install 1/2 Done - Thoughts and Feedback (1 Viewer)

[scottcb]

This past weekend my 15 year old son and I replaced the rear suspension on our 85 FJ60. The only mechanic “skills” I have, have been acquired from this forum, YouTube videos, Google and 10 years of owning this Cruiser. So taking on this project has not only been long anticipated, but was also intimidating. But once you pull the trigger and order the kit (OME from Cruiser Outfitters) and it’s sitting in your garage, you have not choice but to get started. Over two days, I was hoping to get the back and front done, but only got the rears installed. I’m going to outline my experience and hoping this great community can give me some tips for the fronts and maybe my experience will help the next rookie driveway mechanic.

• Jack and Stand Placement - I had read, watched and viewed enough to know how critical this was. I think at one point I had 4 jack stands in use and 3 jacks. It does get a bit freaky when you realize your axle is totally disconnected.
• Install Order? - I did it in this order on the rears. 1) front shackle, 2) back shackle, 3) U bolts. It worked, but after doing both sides and drifting off to sleep I wondered if it would have been easier to hook up the U Bolts first and then connect to the shackles? I ask, because once the leafs were in place, it was kind of squirly getting the leaf high enough to connect it the axle. It seemed like every time I did something the axle just went higher and higher. I got it done by using 2 bottle jacks under the leafs and pulling the axle down.
• Old Parts - the old hardware for the leafs (the sandwiches), I think it would be easier to use new ones. I have no idea what they cost, but I may recommend buying new ones if yours are old and crusty like mine. Just seems to feel better to put new stuff with the new new stuff. We spent a bit of time cleaning them up.
• Almost Impossible - I was able to pound the back pin of the rear leaf out with the expected amount of effort, but the front pins were a major nightmare and where I spent HOURS. Eventually I realized no amount of pounding with a sledge hammer was going to move those pins, to with a 4.5 angle grinder and 5 blades, I was able to cut them out. Upon inspection, the old parts had become one. When I do the fronts, I’m planning to have to cut them out. This was a major time suck, and a little scary since it’s hard to see what you’re really cutting, and stinky with all the burning rubber from the old bushings.
• Muffler - I was not planning to remove the muffler, but i think it would have been impossible to do the driver side rears without removing it. Just another unanticipated time suck.
• Save Parts or Get New Ones - I had expected that the new shocks would have come with new “washers” but they didn’t. We were not paying close attention when the old shocks came off but were able to find them all, clean up and use them again. It would have been nice to have new ones.

Based on measurements, I picked up about 3.5 inches in the back. The back half rides great - time to do the fronts. I’ll post pics when I get the front done.

Any advice on the fronts? What should I anticipate based on past experiences? I already got the steering stabilizer in which required some special tools (borrowed from Auto Zone). I’ll start the fronts on Friday and hope lessons learned from the rears will apply. I also got the kit to replace the front axle seals - that will happen soon enough.

Tires - I’ve been planning to put 33x10.5 tires on. Discount Tire has a deal on Generals right now or I may go with the bfg’s as I have those on my Tacoma and have really liked them. Will that size work with my new OME setup? Other thoughts on sizes?

A sentimental note - spending 2 solid days with a 15 year old son who actually wanted to be there was priceless. We learned a lot together and I think he learned the lesson that you can learn new stuff and do your own work and get a certain level of satisfaction that money can’t buy. In this age where technology demands constant attention, disconnecting for 2 days and getting a son’s full attention was pretty special. If nothing else, I know the two of us will always remember this project.

 

[Kleatus]

On the front pins (rear) or rear pins (front) you can sometimes get them out by turning them as you’re whacking them, if you have a very large pair of channelock pliers they work well for this by grabbing onto the flange with the ear for the bolt hole. Heat helps too. Once you get it worked out a little bit try and get some penetrating oil in there.

Just take your time and don’t forget to check the torque on the U bolts after a little seat time, they will settle in a bit and require a few more turns.

33x10.50 is what lots of folks (myself included) run on stock wheels with a ~2.5” Lift. I’ve had good experience with General tires, I almost got the Grabber Mud terrain in this size but BFG was cheaper at the time.

 

[chichiflys]

I've done this twice on my '85 60 over the past ten years. Each time I floundered through, so sorry I can't offer specific advice, but it sounds like you are well prepped with reading these forums and watching as many videos as you can. The front springs are heavier, so that's a little extra piece of fun to deal with, and while it sounds like you had some issues getting the old pins out in the back - the fronts may not be as bad (seems like the rear part of my truck was more rusty/crusty then the front). I too had to cut out some of the exhaust to get the rear springs replaced. I'd take it to an alignment shop afterwards to make sure it all checks out still. Are you planning on replacing the TREs while you are doing the front?

Nice job - have fun with it and take your time. Sounds like a great father/son project! Just remember, learning is expensive whether you pay for a class or by blood, sweat, tears, and tool purchases - but afterwards you'll know your truck much more and will have gained some confidence to work on it in the future. It's hard to put a price on that.

 

[madvr6]

Congrats on being able to spend time with your son on this project. I have a 16 year old and times like those are truly special.

 

[SteveH]

Great story, and good to spend such time with your son - and you're having all the usual fun.

Borrow a cutting (or at least propane) torch if possible for the front end. Even if you make a smoky mess, once it's apart, you can chisel out the old bushing hunks, and you'll still save a ton of time. There are some bushings that simply will never relent.

 

[Devils Paw 80]

When I do the fronts, I’m planning to have to cut them out. ..

Good idea. Cut off the old u bolts and cut off those pesky spring pins. They still take a bit of work to get out but it's a lot easier, and new pins aren't much of an expense. Grinder works fine for cutting too, and you don't get the smoking bushings that way.

 

[Thornton Melon]

The pneumatic hammer was my game changing tool on removing the old shackles. Took them out in seconds.
And then a strong c-clamp made the install very easy, pushing the bolts through the bushings.

 

[cruiserpilot]

This past weekend my 15 year old son and I replaced the rear suspension on our 85 FJ60. The only mechanic “skills” I have, have been acquired from this forum, YouTube videos, Google and 10 years of owning this Cruiser. So taking on this project has not only been long anticipated, but was also intimidating. But once you pull the trigger and order the kit (OME from Cruiser Outfitters) and it’s sitting in your garage, you have not choice but to get started. Over two days, I was hoping to get the back and front done, but only got the rears installed. I’m going to outline my experience and hoping this great community can give me some tips for the fronts and maybe my experience will help the next rookie driveway mechanic.

• Jack and Stand Placement - I had read, watched and viewed enough to know how critical this was. I think at one point I had 4 jack stands in use and 3 jacks. It does get a bit freaky when you realize your axle is totally disconnected.
• Install Order? - I did it in this order on the rears. 1) front shackle, 2) back shackle, 3) U bolts. It worked, but after doing both sides and drifting off to sleep I wondered if it would have been easier to hook up the U Bolts first and then connect to the shackles? I ask, because once the leafs were in place, it was kind of squirly getting the leaf high enough to connect it the axle. It seemed like every time I did something the axle just went higher and higher. I got it done by using 2 bottle jacks under the leafs and pulling the axle down.
• Old Parts - the old hardware for the leafs (the sandwiches), I think it would be easier to use new ones. I have no idea what they cost, but I may recommend buying new ones if yours are old and crusty like mine. Just seems to feel better to put new stuff with the new new stuff. We spent a bit of time cleaning them up.
• Almost Impossible - I was able to pound the back pin of the rear leaf out with the expected amount of effort, but the front pins were a major nightmare and where I spent HOURS. Eventually I realized no amount of pounding with a sledge hammer was going to move those pins, to with a 4.5 angle grinder and 5 blades, I was able to cut them out. Upon inspection, the old parts had become one. When I do the fronts, I’m planning to have to cut them out. This was a major time suck, and a little scary since it’s hard to see what you’re really cutting, and stinky with all the burning rubber from the old bushings.
• Muffler - I was not planning to remove the muffler, but i think it would have been impossible to do the driver side rears without removing it. Just another unanticipated time suck.
• Save Parts or Get New Ones - I had expected that the new shocks would have come with new “washers” but they didn’t. We were not paying close attention when the old shocks came off but were able to find them all, clean up and use them again. It would have been nice to have new ones.

Based on measurements, I picked up about 3.5 inches in the back. The back half rides great - time to do the fronts. I’ll post pics when I get the front done.

Any advice on the fronts? What should I anticipate based on past experiences? I already got the steering stabilizer in which required some special tools (borrowed from Auto Zone). I’ll start the fronts on Friday and hope lessons learned from the rears will apply. I also got the kit to replace the front axle seals - that will happen soon enough.

Tires - I’ve been planning to put 33x10.5 tires on. Discount Tire has a deal on Generals right now or I may go with the bfg’s as I have those on my Tacoma and have really liked them. Will that size work with my new OME setup? Other thoughts on sizes?

A sentimental note - spending 2 solid days with a 15 year old son who actually wanted to be there was priceless. We learned a lot together and I think he learned the lesson that you can learn new stuff and do your own work and get a certain level of satisfaction that money can’t buy. In this age where technology demands constant attention, disconnecting for 2 days and getting a son’s full attention was pretty special. If nothing else, I know the two of us will always remember this project.

Totally cool to read this. I get home in two weeks, and will be doing a full spring swap on my 60 with my 15 yr old nephew. He has never done any work on trucks. Removing old original bushings is one of lifes great experiences, you only want to do once! You don't mention it so I'm going to ask. Did you buy new shackles? Did you get OME bushings? I would recommend greasable bushing pins at the very least, and anti-inversion if you can take the cost, the extra bit of lift and movement makes a bit of a difference. Prelube the front bushings as much as you can to help in removal. I find prying the shackle away from the spring on the inside of the shackle bracket and use a thin cutoff disc to cut through the factory bushing pin on the inside. I have just made two cuts and the spring falls with the old bushing and pin stuck within.
I guess that's assuming you are replacing the shackles and pins?
I left the factory rubber spring pads on my truck, cleaned up they work okay. Lots of people just remove and throw them away. Personal
preference. The shock washers are reusable, just don't compress the poly bushing too much. I think the bottoms are shouldered so
you can't overtighten them anyhow.
You'll easily fit 33x10.5's with these springs. No issues at all, I think they are the size of choice.

Good luck, have fun. Look forward to seeing pictures. J

 

[Shes Mad]

I almost always go to heat. If the pins don’t come loose with a channel lock and a hammer, I just put the heat to them and burn them out. Stinky, but generally works.

Grease the spring spacers before you install. Much easier than when in the truck. You need a needle tip on your grease gun. Turn the springs curved side up on the floor. Press the needle end into the bottom round plastic pieces on the springs. One or 2 pumps and grease should come out between the springs

Disconnect the sway bar links.

First off and last on are the u bolts. Get the frame jacked up , tires off the ground, supported, and then take the ubolts off.

Jack the axle up off the springs. Take off the shocks, or just the lower bolt if you are not replacing them.

Then take the pins out. Burn them out with a torch if they don’t pound or twist out

For the front hole in the frame, once you have it apart, beat the frame near it with a hammer to break out any rust. You should not have to use the bolt to pull the bushings into the holes. They should be able to push in. If not, there is still rust in there. Clean them out.

Put the center pin (rear of front spring) in first. Grease the crap out of the bushings with moly grease. Then lift the front of the spring and put the front shackle on. Tighten all pin bolts.

Now lower the axle on the springs, make sure the centering pin goes into the axle.
Now put the ubolts on.

Lower the truck to put weight on the springs. You may have to do this to get the shock bottom back on.

Bolt shocks back on. Connect sway bar links.

Drive it! Turn hard left and right at low speeds to settle in the springs. They will continue to settle offer time

 

[scottcb]

Good advice and thank you all. I did get new greasable shackles with OME bushings when I ordered the kit. I’m looking foreard to another go at it with some heat in this time.

 

[kirvesmies]

kudos to you for rockin' this project with your boy. he'll be looonnng forgetting it. pops wouldn't do any of the work, but would guide me in my thinkin' when i built my 1st buggy 45-47 yrs ago. "think it thru boy" still rings in my mind even today
sorry, no advice, other than maybe, " think it thru guys". good luck

 

[micruz60]

Perhaps consider new, longer brake lines? The flexible ones at the transition from axle to brake housing.

 

[richj11]

What a timely post, as I'll be doing this same job in the very near future. I'm sure there are lots of posts here about installing a lift on a Series XX LandCruiser, but this one gives some very specific details and a request for feedback, and the replies have been awesome.

In my day job, I'm in the Knowledge Management field. Most of my 40 hours a week are spent researching process improvement, risk management, lessons learned and telling folks NOT to make the same mistake that "Joe" just made. The information is readily available, but everyone gets tied up with their day job and just don't always make the time to do it right the first time... that's where I come in. Not a bad gig.

 

[DFXR]

Perhaps consider new, longer brake lines? The flexible ones at the transition from axle to brake housing.

Yes, this. Mine were tight as guitar strings in the rear after the lift (though still functional). Front not too bad. Replaced with SOR's stainless extended lines.