New Starter - turns over and dies!

[flyfishnut]

My starter would only work when pounded with a 2 x 4, so I replaced it today.

The new starter sounded strong and she turned right over... BUT as soon as she catches and I turn the key back she dies.

The engine catches just fine and sounds great those few seconds before I turn the key back to disengage the starter.

?? Any thoughts??

Thanks
FFN

 

[Poser]

Post up a picture of your wiring at the starter motor and to the distributor.

 

[flyfishnut]

Does this help??

Backgroung: Prior to replacing the starter, if I hit it with a hammer - it would crank up and run well. Now, after replacing, it does as explained above.

Is it worth stating that it has been painfully cold here (could the temp be making a switch freeze up?)?

 

[handcannon]

More info is needed. What motor, F or 2F? Points dizzy? Later electronic ignition with the igniter? Was the original starter direct drive?

The older ignitions with points had a bypass wire between the starter and coil. During normal running the voltage to the coil is reduced, using a resistor, to keep from burning points. But, during starting the starter would send full 12V to the coil through the bypass wire. If something happened to interrupt the normal current path from the ignition switch to the coil and to the dizzy the motor would die.

My first thought when I read your description was that something had happened to cut/stop your normal ignition circuit. In this situation when you turned the key to start the motor the bypass wire would send 12V from the starter to get the motor running. But, as soon as the key is released the normal lower voltage to the coil would not be there to take over and keep the motor running.

This is a long shot without knowing what year of 40, what type of ignition, etc that you have. But, it might give you something to start tracking down your problem. Start with backtracking and checking everything you touched when changing starters.

Don

 

[flyfishnut]

Don,
IT's a 1977 and I doubled checked - it was so simple I don't think even I could have screwed it up. There was a flat connector to the starter, two plastic connectors that mate and the main connection.

My theory is that when I was trouble shooting the starter to ensure it wasn't something else, that I manually bypassed the ignition ass'y on the bulkhead and maybe fused some contacts together. So, now they are constantly closed? or screwed up the coil, somehow?

Thanks,
FFN

 

[Pin_Head]

Sounds like a bad ballast resistor.

 

[fhawk5]

Use the proper tools. Get a multimeter, sometimes free at Harbor freight, and clamp it on the 12VDC to the distributor. Start vehicle, watch meter, and see results. If 12vdc is still there and vehicle dies, at least you know it is not that.

 

[edwjmcgrath]

Sounds like a bad ballast resistor.

^ What he said. (or the wiring around it.)
This is classic symptom.

 

[bikersmurf]

X100 you're not getting power through the ballast resistor.

1) bad resistor
2) blown fuse
3) disconnected wire
4) bad ground (don't know how, but is likely the answer if all else fails)


When is stalls, connect a test light between ground and (+) on the coil without turning off the key. There should be power there.

 

[shelfboy1]

just because its a new starter dont rule it out

 

[handcannon]

X2 on what Pin Head and bikersmurf said. I just couldn't get this old memory to come up with the correct name for that resistor, just lots of other words. A bad ballast resistor would stop the flow of power to the coil/points. Just in case you don't know what the ballast resistor looks like, it is a ceramic piece about 3/4" X 3/4" X 3" long, and has a wire connected to each end.

Don

 

[Curt]

just because its a new starter dont rule it out

Definitely. I replaced my starter with a non OEM and if i have it connected to the bypass wire(white plastic connector) to give the coil extra voltage for cold starts it doesn't fire up. Have you tried to start it without this connected? It will work without that wire but it helps in cold conditions.

 

[shelfboy1]

i made a mistake on my reply the starter seems to be ok. as stated the resistor is bad or no power to the ignition system maybey you knocked a wire off installing the starter happend to me before .check power at the coil maybey as simple as a blown fuse or unpluged wire

 

[Curt]

Make sure you remove that covering around the spade connector. Mine was snapped in half but still connected.

 

[flyfishnut]

Thanks - It's raining like a SOB here again, but when it stops I'll go take a look. So, the ballast resistor is part of the ignition ass'y mounted on the bulkhead? Can just that small part be replaced or do I have to buy the how ass'y??

Thanks for all of your help!

 

[GA Architect]

Thanks - It's raining like a SOB here again, but when it stops I'll go take a look. So, the ballast resistor is part of the ignition ass'y mounted on the bulkhead? Can just that small part be replaced or do I have to buy the how ass'y??

Thanks for all of your help!

Fly-Nut - Here is a photo of what your '77 ballast resistor & igniter may look like. It sits atop your coil on the passenger side fender right above/next to the battery, above the right front tire.....This is a photo of my '77.

Maybe that will help locate yours?

 

[handcannon]

You should be able to find a replacement resistor, however it is easy to check the resistor for continuity. Just remove the wires from each end and test with a multi-meter set to check for continuity.

Don

 

[bikersmurf]

Quick test, connect a jumper across the resistor, start the truck. If it keeps running, you've found the problem.

When my OEM resistor went, I bypassed it to get home. If you run it that way for too long, you'll fry the coil.

 

[flyfishnut]

Quick test, connect a jumper across the resistor, start the truck. If it keeps running, you've found the problem.

When my OEM resistor went, I bypassed it to get home. If you run it that way for too long, you'll fry the coil.

Great idea - so, jump across from the two terminal screws shown at the FAR LEFT in this pic??

 

[Pin_Head]

Yes. The ballast resistor is the ceramic thing circled in red. It has two terminals. Connect a jumper wire between the two terminals to test. (You could have had this done by now).