New restoration kicking of - Dads 1984 FJ62 (1 Viewer)

[Booch fj62]

Hi,

I'm a new time member, long time lurker.

I'm located in Melbourne, Australia, and just going into our 6th Covid lockdown - so might as well use my time to do something I enjoy.

I've finally got the old man to pass on the keys to the family landcruiser he purchased new back in 1985, and I learnt to drive in.
It looks like an FJ60, but compliance plate says FJ62RG-PQ with a 3F motor and a 4 speed factory auto. It's a slightly unusual build as I believe it was a dealer special
Car is basically as purchased ( and paint/decals are showing it).
Original wheels are cookie cutter 16x6 with 235/85/16 tyres
It's travelled 243,000 km

The only real work it's had done to it in its life is general maintence and a new truck transmission installed 2 years ago, as OEM impossible to find.
Engines good, but slow, can turn the steering wheel 90 degrees before registering movement, and shocks need work
Paint is faded on roof and bonnet and decals have degraded everywhere - there's a dent on each rear quarter, but the rest of panels are clean. Planning on removing all and repainting original colour.
Importantly the car was Ming coated at purchase so no body rust at all, and it lived undercover for all but 5 years of its life - Underbody requires inspection, but can't see any holes through the dirt
Interior is very clean original, with one tear on the drivers seat cloth.

Just thought I'd post to get it on the map, and will update as I go.

It's currently in getting wheel bearings and steering sorted and everything checked over.

I would query whether anyone has advice on suspension and wheels, because that's next?

Looking at a 2inch lift with steering damper - Ironman Foamcell Pro shocks and leaf springs kit. Most of it's future will be on highway, with desire to handle some rougher terrain at times, so don't want too stiff of a ride.

I've purchased 265/60/17 ko2, and looking at alloys to suit - maybe M/T Performance Classic/Baja black to fit. I also like the look of the Helo HE878's and Fuel Vectors.

After getting the mechanicals bulletproof looking at roof rack/ bars front and back interior clean up etc. - Ideally want to keep it pretty true to original, but functional for my kids to use as a tourer.
I
've attached some current photo's plus some from circa 1986 at our cabin. I'm the one in the 4th photo second to the right - just 35 years older

Any feedback would be appreciated

 

[pithicus]

Rust free is a huge plus. I have a lowish km [178000] 89 62 wreck if you get stuck with bits and pieces, steering box etc.

 

[Booch fj62]

Rust free is a huge plus. I have a lowish km [178000] 89 62 wreck if you get stuck with bits and pieces, steering box etc.

Thanks Pithicus - Will keep it in mind.
Only thing I know I'm missing is a lower lh rear door external trim - but not sure if it's on later models

 

[Njck22]

We never got two tone paint like that in the states. I really dig that look, never seen one like that before. look forward to any progress

 

[Booch fj62]

We never got two tone paint like that in the states. I really dig that look, never seen one like that before. look forward to any progress

Would have been great if it was two tone paint! - They were really tough decals/stickers that we had on a lot of cruisers in Australia.

Now they're cracked and baked on - getting them off is ridiculous.

 

[Seth S]

Would have been great if it was two tone paint! - They were really tough decals/stickers that we had on a lot of cruisers in Australia.

Now they're cracked and baked on - getting them off is ridiculous.

There is a rubber tool I’ve used that’s good for removing decals without damaging paint

here is one for an angle grinder

Amazon product ASIN B07QYV3S6B

 

[Booch fj62]

There is a rubber tool I’ve used that’s good for removing decals without damaging paint

here is one for an angle grinder

Amazon product ASIN B07QYV3S6B

Really appreciate the response on this.

A Rotor Caramel Wheel- That is what I used to take the top white stripe off. They actually work pretty well. Need to buy more.

The solid wheel works ok, spreads glue, and doesn’t seem to come off with anything less than a grinder/flap

Definitely a learning curve - but not much better to do at moment

 

[Seth S]

There’s another tool for a oscillator tool but it’s more for removing stick on badges.

 

[Seth S]

Really appreciate the response on this.

A Rotor Caramel Wheel- That is what I used to take the top white stripe off. They actually work pretty well. Need to buy more.

The solid wheel works ok, spreads glue, and doesn’t seem to come off with anything less than a grinder/flap

Definitely a learning curve - but not much better to do at moment

I know there are different compounds of those eraser wheels....might just be a matter of finding the appropriate one. Otherwise there might be some sort of solvent like acetone that dissolves the glue without harming the paint....note: not sure if acetone is the ideal here.

 

[Magicncq]

The only real work it's had done to it in its life is general maintence and a new truck transmission installed 2 years ago, as OEM impossible to find.
Engines good, but slow, can turn the steering wheel 90 degrees before registering movement, and shocks need work

What truck transmission was fitted to the 3FE motor?

 

[SteveH]

I would not use acetone on car paint - it's an odd solvent that is more aggressive than you should use.

I used an inexpensive stripe eraser (not 3M, which just costs 2x as much) on my old RV decals, and it worked incredibly well. I used a drill-mounted one, rather than one for a right-angle grinder. The more faded/broken down the decal, the better it worked. Left the fiberglass underneath in perfect condition. I thought stripe erasers were an urban legend, but literally nothing works better. You have to practice a bit, but once you get the hang of it, it's fairly quick.

 

[pithicus]

What truck transmission was fitted to the 3FE motor?

Here in australia , we didn't get the 3fe in the 62's. We got them first in the 80 series.
I have no idea why? maybe emissions laws.

 

[Booch fj62]

What truck transmission was fitted to the 3FE motor?

Thanks for all the advice on the rubber erasers - I have used 4 different wheels so far, but only on a drill.

The split/rotor types work the best so far. Have tried citric acid glue removers, to no effect. I'll be able to get them off, will just take time. They don't damage the paint, but do leave residue.

Based on results so far thinking I just rub it all back and do a full respray. The paint below is original color, but faded where the decal's cracked

I've got no idea what the transmission is, my father got that done - just know it was about $7k! I'll see if he knows what it is

 

[Booch fj62]

Thanks for all the advice on the rubber erasers - I have used 4 different wheels so far, but only on a drill.

The split/rotor types work the best so far. Have tried citric acid glue removers, to no effect. I'll be able to get them off, will just take time. They don't damage the paint, but do leave residue.

Based on results so far thinking I just rub it all back and do a full respray. The paint below is original color, but faded where the decal's cracked

I've got no idea what the transmission is, my father got that done - just know it was about $7k! I'll see if he knows what it is

View attachment 2752128

View attachment 2752129

And forgot to mention motor is a 3F - not 3FE - carb, no injection

 

[pithicus]

Engines good, but slow,

That's normal for a 3f with an auto .

However if the carb is original and never been touched, there is a reasonable chance the secondary vacuum diaphragm is kaput.
That will make the truck struggle.

 

[Booch fj62]

That's normal for a 3f with an auto .

However if the carb is original and never been touched, there is a reasonable chance the secondary vacuum diaphragm is kaput.
That will make the truck struggle.

Thanks Pithicus - I believe the carby's all good - it actually goes pretty well for what it is.
It's just slower and thirstier than what I'm used to driving now, but that's part of the fun

 

[Booch fj62]

Geez - 3mths later and finally had time to post again.

Unfortunately my progress has been slower than hoped, with minimal progress to date.

The Cruiser has sat at the mechanics (a relative) for months because they can’t find mechanics. Other then checking everything, and advising of diff leaks, suspension leaks and issues with bearings and a/c re-gas required, nothing major. That said, no works have been done. Target is Xmas for mech repairs now.

I did get around to putting on some new wheels and tyres - It was difficult finding correct offset and supply shortages in Australia meant i buy these or wait 4 mths for stock to arrive.

I ended up going with KMC Holeshot in a 17x9 -12 offset
The tyres are BFG A/T 265/70r 17 - so same rolling diameter as original tyres and as wide as you’d want to go without impacting rolling speed.

I also got around to removing the faded decals - I used a tractor caramel wheel on a drill - time consuming and not perfect - but a decent start before the repaint. The body is actually pretty good. One scratch and a dent in lower rear quarter, but that’s it.

Some paint is like new underneath, but a lot is faded and damaged where they decals had cracked. The faded decals were the worst because almost melted in to the paint.

Question now is what to replace them with after respray, which will be in original colour.

I also replaced the headlight with Stedi LED’s— you can actually see when you drive at night now.

Just for fun I have include photo’s of our old Gilflite Laser with 350 Chev - My dad bought it at the same time as the Cruiser. I sold it to a mate who owns a boat repair shop 2 years ago, after getting him to price restoration - he convinced me to sell it to him and he’s just finished restoring it. Sad I sold it now - Looks great.

 

[Seth S]

You might look into having the truck wrapped after you get the paint done. Would be a way to mimic the original graphics and protect the new paint

 

[diesellibrarian]

Interesting that the truck has a "G" badge and no carb fan vents in the front fenders, much like the Canadian-model diesel 60s.

 

[Booch fj62]

Interesting that the truck has a "G" badge and no carb fan vents in the front fenders, much like the Canadian-model diesel 60s.

I think that’s standard for all Australian models. I‘ve never seen any vents on the front guards here. It’s a G but was specked up as a demonstrator back in the day