New (possible) 100 owner - question (1 Viewer)

[ramangain]

There is a "graduation" test to see how much AHC fluid is used when raising from L to H. It is a pretty good indicator if the globes are healthy, or not. It won't tell you which globes may need replacement, but it will let you know that at least one globe needs replacement.

For the asking price, the globes should be in good shape.

 

[uHu]

Mechanical problems can always be fixed, being suspension, brakes, engine, etc. This will be a continuous maintenance going on, whether you have 100 k or 600 k km behind you. A more difficult problem would be if the frame had a damage, or serious rust on body or frame. Generally, these cars are killed by rust, not because of a failing suspension. (Of course there are places where rust is less of a problem, but that would be outside of Europe I think)

So, check for rust. Often the rear is the worst affected, and the tank can be the first to rust through. Check above the spare wheel, wheel arches, and the "bucket-like" part of the body behind the rear wheels.

 

[vargoneti]

There is a "graduation" test to see how much AHC fluid is used when raising from L to H. It is a pretty good indicator if the globes are healthy, or not. It won't tell you which globes may need replacement, but it will let you know that at least one globe needs replacement.

For the asking price, the globes should be in good shape.

Thanks , that is a good advice. I checked the forum a bit for the AHC graduation test. So basically do some H to L test and the fluid should be between 7 and 14. Also watched some youtube videos , will check the brake pump , rust etc. So basically that should do it ?

Thanks

This is a vid from the underside part :

And this from engine :

 

[Exiled]

Looks VERY clean to me, seems worth the money for that low mileage and overall condition.

 

[77HesterSue]

BUY IT! Great looking truck. Good luck

 

[IndroCruise]

Hi folks ,

this would be my first post here , been reading for a while this forum. Have been looking for some weeks/months for a 100 series , will use it as daily drive and needs to be able to fit 3 kids in the back with their chairs. Found some nice cars but they disappeared almost the same day the add was posted. Wanted a V8 petrol but found 2 days ago a 4.2 diesel in very good shape that i want to buy it. It is a 5 hours drive until the car location , that's why i wanted to ask your opinion first based on the pictures , what do you think of the car ? Btw , mileage is real , has history recorded since 2005 , 154k km now , around 95k miles. Price is steep , around 26.000 euros.

Thank you !
Vladimir

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Prices and taxes are all so different around the world and markets are not really comparable -- but if a vehicle in the excellent condition shown in the pics and videos with a genuine low 154,000 kilometres were on the market in Australia at AU$43,000 (about the same as Euro 29,000), it would sell VERY quickly!!! Looking at the fit-out and the OEM equipment, the vehicle appears to be the top-of-line version, probably called “VX” or similar designation in Europe?

The condition of the body exterior and interior look good and have been well-detailed by the Seller. Neither rust nor leaks appear to be visible around the underbody or around the engine or driveline or around the power steering.

The presence of dust around the engine bay and mud underneath an externally clean and polished vehicle does suggest that it is worthwhile to check that the maintenance schedule has been performed as enthusiastically as the car washing and polishing schedule.

A well-maintained 4.2 litre 1HD-FTE turbo-diesel engine should make it easily to 500,000 kilometres without too much trouble, based on Australian experience. The 5 speed A750 series of automatic transmissions also are long lasting if given proper care.

The past maintenance record is important, especially the obvious routine schedule of basic things set out in the attached Service Sheets – see Page 2 for 1HD-FTE engine and Pages 3 and 4 for Chassis and Body. When was the last service? What colour is the oil on the dipstick? Do the oil filter and fuel filter look clean and recently changed? Suggest open the air cleaner and check whether the air filter is new or at least clean? Has dust by passed the filter? It is unlikely that there is a dipstick on this model but if it exists, what colour is the Automatic Transmission Fluid (ATF)? Does the record show recent changes of ATF Fluid, Brake Fluid, Power Steering Fluid and oils in front and rear differentials and transfer case? Does it look like the rocker cover and other parts on top of the engine have ever been removed to check and adjust valve clearances properly? Measuring and re-setting Valve clearances often are avoided by some Dealers and workshops if the engine “sounds OK”! Is there a record of recent front wheel alignment?

The Active Height Control (AHC) and Toyota Electronic Modulated Suspension (TEMS) are a delight if still working properly. It is great for highways and rough trails. When in good condition I am happy to take mine anywhere in the 7.7 million square kilometres of Australia. If really heavy-duty off-road and rockcrawling is planned, or if heavy loads must be carried beyond the system limits, then something else is needed.

If the system is maintained (basically with periodic changes of AHC Fluid and monitoring of correct AHC neutral pressures) and operated within its weight limits, the system is robust, reliable and longlasting – but there are wear components, particularly the ‘globes’ (Gas Chambers) and the Height Control Sensors. Neither of these last forever.

It may not be possible to check whether the front and rear AHC neutral pressures are in the correct range during inspection – but suggest ask when/if this has been done recently and if so, what were the results.

Meanwhile, there are a few basic checks which are easily done:

• normal hub-to-fender heights at all four wheels (at “N” height setting, should be front 500mm, rear 520mm, unless previous owner has set different heights at Height Control Sensor adjusters). Cross-levelling also is very important, with Front Right and Front Left close to equal,

• noticeable differences in damping should be felt when when driving and shifting the selector on the centre console through the four settings: “Comfort” (soft), “Normal”, “Sport1”, “Sport2” (firm). The distinctions deteriorate as the ‘globes’ (Gas Chambers) deteriorate with age and eventual nitrogen pressure loss. If there is a fault which forces the AHC/TEMS system into ‘fail-safe mode’, then there will be no distinction (and the vehicle ride will feel firm, especially at town speeds, because the variable damping will not vary but will be locked in mid-range -- at Step 8 of 16 Steps),

• conduct HI/LO volume test with vehicle on a level surface – means observing the difference in fluid level at the AHC Tank when the vehicle is at “LO” height setting (fluid level is highest) and when the vehicle is at “HI” height setting (fluid level is lowest). If there is a difference of 14 graduations seen at the side of tank, it suggests that the ‘globes’ (Gas Chambers) are near new. A difference of 7 graduations means ‘globes’ are due for replacement now. This test is the primary indicator of the overall condition of the ‘globes’ – however, to be comparable with Factory Service Manual (FSM), it is must be done at correct AHC neutral pressures – which are unknown unless they can be measured. Nevertheless, this simple test will give some indication of ‘globe’ condition, although not completely reliable when pressures are not known. [Note: If the vehicle heights are high – see above – or if Rear springs have weakened with time (inevitable, especially noting rear tow ball may suggest a history of high Rear weights), or, if Front torsion bars have never been adjusted (easy), then AHC pressures will be high unless the previous owner has adjusted for these effects),

• check “rise time” and “rise distances” – as shown on the attachment. An older vehicle may show some deterioration in these numbers,

• turn steering to allow visual inspection of at least both of the Front Height Control Sensors (difficult to see the single Rear Sensor without removing the Left Hand Rear wheel or dropping the spare wheel). The Sensors obviously have been subject to arduous wet and muddy conditions. Visual inspection does not indicate much and any faults require proper electrical testing – but it is good know that the Sensors and their mechanical linkages are at least intact,

• visually inspect all ‘Shock Absorbers’ – these are different to conventional shock absorbers and are not much more than hydraulic struts on AHC vehicles. Damping takes place at the Damping Force Control Actuators to which the 'globes' are attached. Slight ‘weeping’ is not necessarily catastrophic – it may mean only that the system is overpressure and that the 'Shock Absorber' seals are being challenged. Correcting pressures may correct the ‘weep’ – neglect eventually will require expensive replacement,

• Check whether service records show replacement of lightweight AHC Rear coil springs – these weaken over time and kilometres, likely to be weak now,

That said, and as highlighted by others, there will be ongoing maintenance and replacements that go with a 16 years old vehicle.

In addition to routine servicing and all fluid changes, a budget over the next 1 to 5 years should include allowances for the following:

• replacement of timing belt and water pump (immediate if not recently done),

• cleaning of the Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) system and intake manifold – and this is a good time to check/re-set all valve clearances, consider removal and testing of fuel injectors, consider testing compression via injector apertures (no glow plugs on 1HD-FTE) – all of this can be part of ‘base lining’ of the vehicle,

• Check and if necessary adjust static front cross-level using torsion bar adjusters,

• Check and if necessary adjust vehicle operating heights using Height Control Sensor adjusters (not Torsion Bar adjusters),

• Check and correctly adjust Front AHC neutral pressure – easy, cheap, done by using torsion bar adjusters to add load to torsion bars, reduce load on AHC system,

• Check and correctly adjust Rear AHC neutral pressure – involves at least inserting rear packers, better to replace and possibly upgrade rear coil springs,

• Replace all four ‘globes’ (Gas Chambers) – defer until indicated by HI/LO volume change test done at correct AHC neutral pressures [Note: AHC pressures tell nothing about ‘globe’ condition. The volume test is essential],

• Acquire ready for replacement all three Height Control Sensors, replace if and when indicated by diagnosis of AHC faults,

• Replace alternator and rebuild starter motor (after say 200,000 kilometres, for ongoing reliability rather than wait for inconvenient failure while travelling),

None of the above observations and comments are 'show stoppers'. This vehicle is in superlative condition for its age and it is a "BUY" -- but it is important to be realistic about what the future holds. Good luck!!

 

[vargoneti]

Thank you all for the info's , thanks IndroCruise for the detailed walkthrough. Unfortunately the deal didn't go trough , one day before going to buy the car , the owner started with some typical eastern European chicken**** after he saw I'm ready to buy his car , he asked 29k +VAT instead of the agreed price of 29k including VAT.
Two days later i found this car and bought it today :

Its a 2015 200 Cruiser , 4.5 liter diesel engine , 97k kilometer (aprox 60k miles) , all inspections done at Toyota , owner was a multi millionaire who had his driver take care of the car , it is very well maintained , only flaws are it needs some new brake pads.

Thank all again for your input.

 

[Tonino]

Hi folks ,

this would be my first post here , been reading for a while this forum. Have been looking for some weeks/months for a 100 series , will use it as daily drive and needs to be able to fit 3 kids in the back with their chairs. Found some nice cars but they disappeared almost the same day the add was posted. Wanted a V8 petrol but found 2 days ago a 4.2 diesel in very good shape that i want to buy it. It is a 5 hours drive until the car location , that's why i wanted to ask your opinion first based on the pictures , what do you think of the car ? Btw , mileage is real , has history recorded since 2005 , 154k km now , around 95k miles. Price is steep , around 26.000 euros.

Thank you !
Vladimir

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Hello Vlad. Tonino here. She's a beauty. I can't speak for the diesel but I'm sure there are plenty of members out there who can. Judging from the miles on the odometer and what I can see in the photos, the undercarriage looks as good as the body shell - no corrosion on any of the fittings and thats a good sign. Unless I'm wrong with my math, thats about 26,000 Euros is about 31,000 U.S. With a Petrol engine your truck would most probably be in the 25-28k range herel, in the Southeast. I have been looking for a long time as well and if a truck is under 100k miles and nice - "Ka-Ching", big bucks. They are a lot of them out there on the market but very few in the condition yours is in with such low miles. Hey - whats not to like?

 

[Tonino]

Hello Vlad. Tonino here. She's a beauty. I can't speak for the diesel but I'm sure there are plenty of members out there who can. Judging from the miles on the odometer and what I can see in the photos, the undercarriage looks as good as the body shell - no corrosion on any of the fittings and thats a good sign. Unless I'm wrong with my math, thats about 26,000 Euros is about 31,000 U.S. With a Petrol engine your truck would most probably be in the 25-28k range herel, in the Southeast. I have been looking for a long time as well and if a truck is under 100k miles and nice - "Ka-Ching", big bucks. They are a lot of them out there on the market but very few in the condition yours is in with such low miles. Hey - whats not to like?

As they say down here in the Southeast: "ya done good". Val. Sweet. Best of luck with it.

 

[76lcmike]

last pics

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it's to clean for me. and no rust! come on man! i'll pass! I KID! buy it, nice!

 

[Tonino]

I've seen worse. dirt and soil but not a lot of rust. It'll clean up nice but there are so many other things to be looking at. See earlier post by "vargoneti". Its extensive but its all there
and a good road map to follow.