New Owner with Mystery Oil Leak (1 Viewer)

[OBX J80]

Hi Everyone!

New owner here and and wanted pass along my thanks for everyone on this site. It’s already saved me countless hours and $$$. I am the proud new owner of a 170,000 mile 1996 Land Cruiser. I’m a maintenance freak and have already started planning my front axle rebuild, although it’s showing no signs of needing done. It does need front brakes and will do with a quick pad replacement until I have the items and time necessary to do the rotors and subsequent front axle job with birf switch. I did an oil change when I bought the truck and went with 0w20 being from Ohio with cold starts this time of year. After 1,500 miles I noticed this wet area around the valve cover/dizzy area I have seen zero loss of oil on the dipstick and zero oil under the truck The oil still looks brand new after 1,500 miles which along with its smooth performance and even sound tells me I have a very healthy engine. Anyone have any advice on this apparently small oil leak? I have everything I need to do a valve cover gasket replacement (plugs, boots, PCV, throttle body gasket, plug seals, half moons, plug wires, and dizzy cap and rotor. Just curious on some opinions of this oil leak and if I’m doing the right thing with the valve cover gasket replacement Should I also be doing the dizzy gasket/seal? I guess I’m a little concerned about removing the dizzy and altering the timing of this smooth runner

Thanks again to everyone on this awesome site!

 

[flintknapper]

Your leak appears to be the Valve Cover Gasket, however....I can guarantee you... your Dizzy O-ring is rock hard and if not presently leaking, will be at some point. Convenient to replace it now.

Just bring the engine up to TDC (Top Dead Center) on the #1 cylinder (compression stroke) and remove the distributor. Replace O-ring and we can walk you through the re-installation if you are not already familiar....or haven't done a 'search' here on the subject.

As concerns the Valve Cover.....it has built in 'stops' that prevent you from over tightening and crushing the gasket so....when the bolts begin to feel snug, just stop. You may have to go back later (a week or so) and make a quick trip around the cover to put the final torque on the bolts after the gasket has settled.

 

[OBX J80]

Thank you Flint! Excellent advice and I will definitely search the forum for info in the dizzy o-ring and I’m sure there is a detailed write up with everything I need to complete the job. I’m definitely a one mechanic but I have the tools and this forum so I’m sure it’ll be easier than I think.

 

[manofthewoods]

Your leak appears to be the Valve Cover Gasket, however....I can guarantee you... your Dizzy O-ring is rock hard and if not presently leaking, will be at some point. Convenient to replace it now.

Just bring the engine up to TDC (Top Dead Center) on the #1 cylinder (compression stroke) and remove the distributor. Replace O-ring and we can walk you through the re-installation if you are not already familiar....or haven't done a 'search' here on the subject.

As concerns the Valve Cover.....it has built in 'stops' that prevent you from over tightening and crushing the gasket so....when the bolts begin to feel snug, just stop. You may have to go back later (a week or so) and make a quick trip around the cover to put the final torque on the bolts after the gasket has settled.

I'll second all of the above, 100%.
Congratulations on the new ride. Looks great. Protect it from the rust monsters!
I'd consider running the recommended 5w-30 oil, it should be thin enough for the coldest weather; just go easy until the heat gauge has moved up some. Note: I run the recommended 0w-20 in my 200 series. So, I don't have a hate on the stuff.

 

[OBX J80]

I'll second all of the above, 100%.
Congratulations on the new ride. Looks great. Protect it from the rust monsters!
I'd consider running the recommended 5w-30 oil, it should be thin enough for the coldest weather; just go easy until the heat gauge has moved up some. Note: I run the recommended 0w-20 in my 200 series. So, I don't have a hate on the stuff.

More good advice. Thank you!

She just got back from being oil sprayed yesterday

 

[JunkCrzr89]

I'd consider running the recommended 5w-30 oil, it should be thin enough for the coldest weather

15W-40 fore lyfe. The 1FZ will be happier.

 

[bhsdriller]

Do the distributor O-ring while the valve cover is off. Makes it way easier, you don't have to mess with any TDC adjustment. You can see the teeth with the cover off so just mark them and insert it back in the same spot.

 

[OBX J80]

Do the distributor O-ring while the valve cover is off. Makes it way easier, you don't have to mess with any TDC adjustment. You can see the teeth with the cover off so just mark them and insert it back in the same spot.

That’s the exact advice I was looking for BHS! Thank you so much!

 

[ppc]

In addition to the valve cover gasket when you take that off replace the spark plug tube seals.
The other common repairs when you have the VC off, which gives you more space & access, are replacing all the heater hoses, the heater control valve on the firewall as well as the PHH - pesky heater hose and another small diameter hose coming off the side of the head.
As stated above the oil leaking from the distributor O-ring.
The final thing to do is replace the oil pump cover gasket/O-ring and the front main seal which is most easily done when the radiator has been removed.
All these items have many threads with pictures that you can search on this forum.

 

[flintknapper]

Thank you Flint! Excellent advice and I will definitely search the forum for info in the dizzy o-ring and I’m sure there is a detailed write up with everything I need to complete the job. I’m definitely a one mechanic but I have the tools and this forum so I’m sure it’ll be easier than I think.

We can help you if you have any trouble with getting the timing back right. So just 'holler' if you have any questions. I have pics of everything if you need to see them.

 

[Comet]

Get the jis (edited for regional dialect per @Malleus ) screwdrivers for the oil pump. Saves you from stripping them out.

 

[Malleus]

He means "JIS"; it's his accent

 

[Malleus]

Get the jis (edited for regional dialect per @Malleus ) screwdrivers for the oil pump. Saves you from stripping them out.

Jus' tryin' to keep our northern brothers straight...

 

[flintknapper]

He means "JIS"; it's his accent

Japanese Industrial Standard (JIS).

The profile of the JIS bit (leading angle) is almost straight. A normal 'phillips' bit will want to 'cam out' of a JIS headed fastener. You can grind the tip off of phillips head bit to help it seat deeper, but using the correct bit (JIS) is the way to go.