New OME Lift (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

VCCruzr

VCCruzr

Joined
Dec 2, 2008
Threads
127
Messages
1,923
Location
San Diego
Just ordered my 850/860 OME lift kit with shocks, caster correction bushings, and steering stabilizer, woohoo!!! Anyway, some questions I have are - do I need the bushing press tool to install the bushings? Is Slee the only one who sells this tool? Or, if anyone local (NC San Diego Area) has one I can buy or borrow from, that would be great! :D
 
you can take the control arms to a local machine shop and have them press it out and in with the new ones.
 
I gave the shop the tool I got from slee and they chucked it out and used some shop scrap to remove the old and to press them in. Apparently it deformed under the pressure and got missaligned so they did not want to score the inside. I beleive the hard part was removing the old one since you press it through. the new ones are pressed flush and could just use flat stock.
 
Am I going to need caster plates - landtanks or slees? Will eventually do the ARB Bullbar but not very soon.
 
I used Slee caster plates since it came with the kit. Fairly easy to install and the car drives great with them on.

Currently you have no weight upfront, so the more castor, the better is should ride.
 
VCCruzr said:
Am I going to need caster plates - landtanks or slees? Will eventually do the ARB Bullbar but not very soon.
Click to expand...

How off are you that you are going to need caster plates?
I have not been reading on the latest plates offered but I thought they are only recommended for lifts >4'' or more.

From the first post it says 850/860 = 2.5"?.
Even with the front unladen, it should'nt be more than 3.25" :D.
 
snowcamo80 said:
How off are you that you are going to need caster plates?
I have not been reading on the latest plates offered but I thought they are only recommended for lifts >4'' or more.

From the first post it says 850/860 = 2.5"?.
Even with the front unladen, it should'nt be more than 3.25" :D.
Click to expand...

Just asking......from what i've read on the board, its seems many install them, even with the set up i am going with. I just want to do things right and checking to see if it's necessary, that's all.
 
I installed the same lift and did not install plates. I used the bushings as recommended by Slee. I also put a short bus bumper on at the same time and it seems to drive well without wander or shakes. Funny thing is I still have a bit of stink bug with the back about 3/4 of an inch higher than the front. I was hoping that the heavys up front and mediums in rear would correct this. I will be adding a rear bumper shortly and will see if it levels. In the future I may consider the FOR 3" lift or the SLee 4" pending $ and time since adding all the gear to it has droped the lift down about 1" . I liked the height at about 3" lift, not to tippy for the road and just enough for 3 rated trails which are about as tough and about as much potential damage as I would like to incure on the 80.
 
landcruising said:
I installed the same lift and did not install plates. I used the bushings as recommended by Slee. I also put a short bus bumper on at the same time and it seems to drive well without wander or shakes. Funny thing is I still have a bit of stink bug with the back about 3/4 of an inch higher than the front. I was hoping that the heavys up front and mediums in rear would correct this. I will be adding a rear bumper shortly and will see if it levels. In the future I may consider the FOR 3" lift or the SLee 4" pending $ and time since adding all the gear to it has droped the lift down about 1" . I liked the height at about 3" lift, not to tippy for the road and just enough for 3 rated trails which are about as tough and about as much potential damage as I would like to incure on the 80.
Click to expand...

Did the front bumper drop the front to create the stink bug look? Will 1" spacers solve the problem up front? I want the level look so that is why i went with the 850/860 set up. Sliders next, but front bumper is probably in the future as well. Do you have any pics?
 
It is actually about 3/4 lower in the front when measured from the fender to the center hub in front. I think the added weight of the bumper and removing the spare from under the back and the spare tire bracket created some. I think many use the spacers to level a matched lift heavy heavy, or medium medium. I will be adding a IPOR bumper today so I will see what happens, I may be upgrading the rear springs to the heavys with all that weight in the back. The picture are hard to tell but it is bit (1/4 inch) higher in the back now with the spare tire relocated into the back
FZJ80 002 resize.jpg
FZJ80 006 resize.jpg
 
Nice looking cruiser, thanks for the pics!
 
Spring/Shock Install

Well, I finally have some time next Saturday to install my 850/860 lift that I bought a few weeks back. Gonna do this with a friends help at his place in San Marcos. I have searched a bit but it seems to me that the best info I could find for installation is on Slee's website. Doesn't sound too compicated, but if there are any pointers out there, feel free to let me know. Also, if there is anyone out there that would like to stop by, I'll provide the beer and pizza.....haven't had a chance to meet any "locals" yet. :beer: PM me for the address if you wanna stop by.
 
VCCruzr said:
...installation is on Slee's website. Doesn't sound too compicated, but if there are any pointers out there, feel free to let me know. ...
Click to expand...

PBlaster those rear bottom shock bolts ahead of time. Having air tools and a friends helping hands make it easier and quicker to finish - albeit if he knows what the heck hes doing - ;):lol::hillbilly::).
Pic if you have problems getting the old rear shocks out = an extra wrenching day. Good luck!
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Bluto said:
PBlaster those rear bottom shock bolts ahead of time. Having air tools and a friends helping hands make it easier and quicker to finish - albeit if he knows what the heck hes doing - ;):lol::hillbilly::).
Pic if you have problems getting the old rear shocks out = an extra wrenching day. Good luck!
Click to expand...

Thanks for the reminder. I remember reading that soaking the bolts a week ahead of time will save tons of grief. Gonna pick up some liquid wrench on the way home. Another quick question.....what should I expect time wise to do this job (the 4 shocks & springs)? I have read from 3 to 4 hrs. I am having the CC bushings pressed in at a shop later.
 
VCCruzr said:
Another quick question.....what should I expect time wise to do this job (the 4 shocks & springs)? I have read from 3 to 4 hrs. I am having the CC bushings pressed in at a shop later.
Click to expand...

3-4 hours sounds about right. But start early and leave the rest of the day open.

I'd also pick up a nut splitter or an impact swivel socket to remove the DS shock. Preferably the swivel socket, because IIRC it'll be useful to remove the PS control arm. The nut splitter also takes some time because there's no room to use an impact.

If you were closer I'd stop by.
 
Having air tools and a friends helping hands make it easier and quicker to finish - albeit if he knows what the heck hes doing - ;):lol::hillbilly::).
hay i resemble that remark:grinpimp:
 
SOCALFJ said:
Nice XJ!
Click to expand...


Not mine. :D
But I did have a 1996 Classic with select trac that I wanted to build. But I never got it back from MUM.
 
Finally Installed The Lift!

Finally installed the lift today! Wow, what a difference, both in ride quality and looks. Can't wait to get out on the trail! Took about 3 1/2 hours to do...thank God for a friend willing to help. Makes things a lot easier. Here are a couple of before and after pics:
LX450 002.jpg r1.jpg
LX450 004.jpg r1.jpg
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.

Users who are viewing this thread

Total: 2 (members: 0, guests: 2)

Share this page

Back
Top Bottom