New Motor break-in (1 Viewer)
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BJEC69
SILVER Star
I ran the new motor for about 30 minutes, then changed the oil and filter per the engine builders suggestion. I changed the oil and filter again at about 250 miles. I just drove it like it was meant to be driven. Certainly no jack rabbit, or full throttle starts, but always bringing the motor up to speed gradually, back and forth throughout the RPM range, any varying speeds, never holding a constant speed for a long period of time, but not babying it either. I am sure others who know better here will correct me if I am wrong
. Good luck with your new engine. 
Brendon
. Good luck with your new engine. Brendon
break in the cam at 2500 rpm for about 15 minutes then gas the snoot out of it have fun
You can probably drive normally, I wouldn't do alot of downhill back compression runs. Everybody has their opinion on break-in. I say drive 200 miles and change the oil and filter, then again at 2000 miles, then go normal. You don't want to get it over-heated, no mountain passes, no trailers, check your water often for awhile. You have new stuff so extra friction which heats the motor internally so you don't want to add too much extra.
Break in .... as said, everyone has their own idea as to what is best.
I rebuilt two 2F and consulted a Land Cruiser guru who happens to have a Phd and works in a a major oil company research lab here, related to engine oils and fuels.
He claims that for break-in, an oil without additives is best in the long run.
I think this was to avoid cylinder glazing.
He also maintains that the initial startup should only last till the engine get to operating temp and then shut it down unit fully cooled.
Good Luck!
I rebuilt two 2F and consulted a Land Cruiser guru who happens to have a Phd and works in a a major oil company research lab here, related to engine oils and fuels.
He claims that for break-in, an oil without additives is best in the long run.
I think this was to avoid cylinder glazing.
He also maintains that the initial startup should only last till the engine get to operating temp and then shut it down unit fully cooled.
Good Luck!
well lets see. when you build a motor and put it on a dyno you run at about 2500rpm for about 20 minutes then you run it at 6000 rpm for a dyno test. thats a brand new motor either it stays together or it goes its that simple. Top > Miscellaneous > Performance Engine Start-up & Brake-In Procedures
Start-Up and Break-In Procedures
1. After installing the engine, ensure the crankcase has been filled with the correct (refer to instruction sheets that come with the crate engine) motor oil (non-synthetic) to the recommended oil fill level on the dipstick. Also check and fill as required any other necessary fluids such as coolant, power steering fluid, etc.
2. The engine should be primed with oil prior to starting. Do this by using an engine oil priming tool. If you do not have one, one can be obtained through GM, part number 12368084. Follow the instructions enclosed with the tool. This is the sure way to get oil to the bearings before you start the engine for the first time. Also, prime the engine if it sits for extended periods of time.
3. Safety first. If the vehicle is on the ground, be sure the emergency brake is set, the wheels are chocked and the car cannot fall into gear.
4. Start the engine and adjust the initial timing. Set the ignition timing to timing specified in the instruction sheet and the engine idle to the speed as specified in the instruction sheet. Rotate the distributor counterclockwise to advance the timing. Rotate the distributor clockwise to retard the timing. Leave the vacuum advance disconnected.
5. When possible, you should always allow the engine to warm up prior to driving. It is a good practice to allow the oil sump and water temperature to reach 180° F before towing heavy loads or performing hard acceleration runs.
6. Once the engine is warm, set the total advance timing as specified in the instruction sheet.
7. The engine should be driven at varying loads and conditions for the first 30 miles or one hour without wide open throttle (WOT) or sustained high RPM accelerations.
8. Run five or six medium throttle (50%) accelerations to about 4000 rpm and 55 mph (if application is a vehicle), and back to idle (0% throttle) in gear.
9. Run two or three hard throttle (WOT 100%) accelerations to about 5000 rpm and 55 mph (if application is a vehicle), and back to idle (0% throttle) in gear.
10. Change the oil and filter. Replace with 20W50 racing motor oil (not synthetic) and an ACDelco oil filter. Inspect the oil and the oil filter for any foreign particles to ensure that the engine is functioning properly.
11. Drive the next 500 miles (or 12 to 15 engine hours) under normal conditions. Do not run the engine at its maximum rated engine speed. Also, do not expose the engine to extended periods of high load.
12. Change the oil and filter. Again, inspect the oil and oil filter for any foreign particles to ensure that the engine is functioning properly.
13. Do not use synthetic oil for break-in. It would only be suitable to use synthetic motor oil after the second recommended oil change and mileage accumulation
Start-Up and Break-In Procedures
1. After installing the engine, ensure the crankcase has been filled with the correct (refer to instruction sheets that come with the crate engine) motor oil (non-synthetic) to the recommended oil fill level on the dipstick. Also check and fill as required any other necessary fluids such as coolant, power steering fluid, etc.
2. The engine should be primed with oil prior to starting. Do this by using an engine oil priming tool. If you do not have one, one can be obtained through GM, part number 12368084. Follow the instructions enclosed with the tool. This is the sure way to get oil to the bearings before you start the engine for the first time. Also, prime the engine if it sits for extended periods of time.
3. Safety first. If the vehicle is on the ground, be sure the emergency brake is set, the wheels are chocked and the car cannot fall into gear.
4. Start the engine and adjust the initial timing. Set the ignition timing to timing specified in the instruction sheet and the engine idle to the speed as specified in the instruction sheet. Rotate the distributor counterclockwise to advance the timing. Rotate the distributor clockwise to retard the timing. Leave the vacuum advance disconnected.
5. When possible, you should always allow the engine to warm up prior to driving. It is a good practice to allow the oil sump and water temperature to reach 180° F before towing heavy loads or performing hard acceleration runs.
6. Once the engine is warm, set the total advance timing as specified in the instruction sheet.
7. The engine should be driven at varying loads and conditions for the first 30 miles or one hour without wide open throttle (WOT) or sustained high RPM accelerations.
8. Run five or six medium throttle (50%) accelerations to about 4000 rpm and 55 mph (if application is a vehicle), and back to idle (0% throttle) in gear.
9. Run two or three hard throttle (WOT 100%) accelerations to about 5000 rpm and 55 mph (if application is a vehicle), and back to idle (0% throttle) in gear.
10. Change the oil and filter. Replace with 20W50 racing motor oil (not synthetic) and an ACDelco oil filter. Inspect the oil and the oil filter for any foreign particles to ensure that the engine is functioning properly.
11. Drive the next 500 miles (or 12 to 15 engine hours) under normal conditions. Do not run the engine at its maximum rated engine speed. Also, do not expose the engine to extended periods of high load.
12. Change the oil and filter. Again, inspect the oil and oil filter for any foreign particles to ensure that the engine is functioning properly.
13. Do not use synthetic oil for break-in. It would only be suitable to use synthetic motor oil after the second recommended oil change and mileage accumulation
ccasteel
SILVER Star
I've only got 200 miles on my fresh rebuild. So I don't have any after experiences to share. I've been asking the same questions and most of what I am hearing has been repeated here. The one thing I haven't heard yet is that it's imperative to add a zinc additive to the oil to assist in lubrication during break in. I added 1 1/2 pints to mine, and will on the next oil change around 250 miles. After that I'll source a good oil with some zinc already in it. IIRC Valvoline ZR racing oil has zinc in it. At $15 a pint for the additive, I don't want to make that a lifelong habit.
The zinc thing sounds good but the engine builders that I have spoke with say no to zinc. On a fresh rebuild you are trying to get your rings to seat so a large amount of friction is a good thing. Zinc can get in the way of ring seating, start your zinc after a thousand miles.
Thats good to know, I am in the middle of a rebuild now.
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If you are not absolutely sure that your carb is in good working order, borrow someone else's that you are sure IS. I have seen too many expensive rebuilds go south on customers [and friend's] rigs because an overly rich carb washed the rings out before they could seat.
Best
Mark A.
Best
Mark A.
Interesting
SO is it the rings that are ruined or what ??
SO is it the rings that are ruined or what ??
Funny my engine builder told me that I want to use a zinc additive for break in.
middlecalf
SILVER Star
Is this done anymore nowadays? I thought (in days past) that most engine rebuilders did a break-in on the dyno (including with the intended carb or injection setup) so when you got the engine/vehicle it was good to go without the break-in dance? Seems like you could control the break-in a lot better in the shop with dyno than over-the-road.
Well it looks like the zinc addition is going to be forever debated. How about we add 1 tablespoon of zinc to a new engine rebuild, this will replace the zinc the EPA removed and still should allow the rings to seat.
For everyone that wants more or less of the zinc, we are doing an engine break in, this means we want the rings to have enough friction to wear into the cylinders so they seal and we want minimal friction on the cam lubes. The bearings should have oil pressure so I am discouting them.
Debate finished.;p If it were only that easy.
For everyone that wants more or less of the zinc, we are doing an engine break in, this means we want the rings to have enough friction to wear into the cylinders so they seal and we want minimal friction on the cam lubes. The bearings should have oil pressure so I am discouting them.
Debate finished.;p If it were only that easy.
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My engine machinist strongly urged the use of Joe Gibbs Racing Break In Oil for initial start up and first 100 - 200 miles. Follow the procedures these other folks have posted up to bed in the cam & rings, etc. After the 100 or so miles dump the Joe Gibbs and run Shell Rotella. Check valve adjustment, head bolts, etc. Landcruisers have solid lifters so they need the zinc additive. Change out the Rotella & filter at about 500 miles. I broke mine in this way about 2 years ago. I have almost 6000 miles on it now and it's running perfectly. I have never laid awake at night wondering did I do it right....
That sounds good. I think the racing oils still have higher zinc content. I'm just trying to temper the "if a little is good more is better" concept. Some minimum amount of zinc is a good thing, some minimum amount of friction is a good thing.
What are commonly available Zinc additives ??
Are there name brands and can you get it at the big name stores ??
Thanks
Dwight
Are there name brands and can you get it at the big name stores ??
Thanks
Dwight
Please elaborate..
I am going thru the break in on my f motor right now and used Driven Break In conventional oil. I think it was 15w50 with 2800-3000 ppm of zddp (zinc). I normally use Castrol 20w50 conventional high zinc oil. This oil has 1400 ppm of zinc.
