New Michigan 80 delivered to GA - Major overhauling (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Oct 2, 2016
Threads
3
Messages
26
Location
Atlanta, GA
My 80 finally showed up on the transport from Michigan that I bought. Seller said it had rust of course the question was how much. I drove the truck about 15 miles after backing it off transport. Ran and drove awesome. By the time I parked it it was pissing coolant and the rear main seal was leaking pretty good. Like 6 inch spots. After giving the vehicle a once over its hard to believe the front half of the truck spent 20 years in michigan. The rear half was believeable. The hitch rusted all the way through. But some how the bad rust was just on the rear axle and rear tire carrier and hitch. The body has a few spots and the rocker panels are shot but as bad as it sounds the body is in great condition. The frame too. The Its actually a pretty nice cruiser. But anyways after looking it over we decided that a complete overhaul and rust repair was in order so we pulled the driveline and are removing the body from the frame to do proper repairs.

Things to do:
1. Rebuild front and rear axles clean and coat with paint.
2. Rebuild and paint 1fz-fe engine
3. Pressure wash transmission and transfercase, coat and paint, changed fluids and reseal cases
4. Cut out body and frame rust, weld in new metal and coat and paint frame
5. Fix a couple interior issues but over all interior is great
6. Reassemble of course.

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More to come as I get things apart and grasp the job at hand. Going ahead and replacing all hoses and other pesky things.
 
I absolutely applaud your work but I have to ask...aren't there any solid cruisers down by you?
 
Eh.. yeah theres good factory locked ones here but they are 7k-18k and the engines arent any newer. I bought this 96 relatively cheap with factory lockers so Im going to jusy go through it and make sure when it hits the road that nothing needs to be done. Even here in GA after buying one for 10k or what ever Id still want to go through the engine and axles. The interior is very nice on this one. I rather have nice interior and bad mechanical than the other way around. I can fix anything mechanical to like new. I suck at interior cosmetic work.
 
Well either way...it isn't my place to question what you want to do so...CHEERS! I will definitely be watching this one!
 
man there are plenty in GA for 5K unlocked. adding lockers is 10 times easier than dealing with rust but to each his own.
 
My labor is a lot easier than putting 4-5k cold hard cash out. This is a personal project that I enjoy. I don't mind. It's really not that bad. The tailgate and front supports got the bad stuff. I drilled inspection holes else where. Its amazing how rust free most of it is but yet how rusty it is in those places. We'll see how it goes. Worst case I end up with a good 4WD. Best case I end up with a nice looking reliable one. Hell if the rear main seal hadnt of been leaking I'd be driving it right now. Its a very good looking truck. Interior is awesome in it. The rear main seal was the straw that broke the camels back tho. I'm one of those people that if Im going to pull the trans then I might as well pull it all and redo everything while Im in there. Hoses, bolts etc. I wouldnt bother if I felt it was a lost cause. In person it shows a lot better. The only real lose is the tail gate. The rest is easy to fix and cure. The tail gate just needs replacement. The roof rain trays and everything else are like new. I'll post more pics as things move on and get the body off the frame. I'll be able to assess the real damage then. Pictures and fun to come! :)
 
i would also be willing to bet its not the rear main and just the pan arch but since you are already this far into it might as well do a good bit of work.
 
Yeah. Im just going to go through everything on it. That way I wont worry about taking a 2 hour drive to the mountains or something. Just turn key and go. All the pics and documentation will be peace of mind for the next owner too.
 
Cut the back half of the frame out. Cut most of the under body out. Ground a lot of rust out and put rust converter on what was left. Going to start welding the rear tubular section in tomorrow and making new rear back half. Also going to weld in the rock sliders. Cut out 2 cross members and welded in tubes

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Thursday Im doing the head gasket and all hoses and seals. Might role new rod bearings in as well. Not sure how far Im taking the motor yet. May just rebuild the damn thing.
 
Tail gate turned out to not be as rusty as I had planned on it being. It was actually rust free inside after I took the gate panel off. So thats less work.

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On these northern rigs there can be several trouble spots. Where the rear tire carrier attaches to the braclets, Rust on the frame is likely here, and the passenger side frame near the tail pipe just behind the rear tire. Front and rear windows usually need some new sheet metal from rust. The drivers floorboard almost always needs attention. I'm sure you know this but I will say It anyway, be sure to powerwash everything that has any salt residue. Inside the frame, cross members, anywhere salt can get or It will continue to rust. You must be well setup for this kind of job, rust Is to much work for me. Good Luck with your project ! :)
 
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Thanks for the advice. I spent 2 hours pressure washing the undercarriage and frame today. Got soaked. Some how this one didnt get rust in those places except the rear. The tire carrier was junk. The frame rusted completely through just before it. I cut all that out with a torch today. I cut the whole rear frame out. Rebuilding the back half with tubing. I didnt check the driver floor board tho. I will check that tomorrow. Something tells me from what ive seen tho that it will be okay. I hope. haha.
 

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