New member with LC 100 and tech questions (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Oct 8, 2020
Threads
20
Messages
112
Location
Virginia
Hey everyone,

I recently made the best move to switch from Jeep to a LC. I've been seeing the LCs everywhere in the world.. and when I asked why they use them and not the Jeeps, they simple laughed and said LCs live forever... and they were right lol!

I scored a 100 series 1998 (northern) with 216k and some issues. It's a northern car so there's some rust under the rear bumper area but other than that it is good overall. The car has been sitting for a couple of years but the owner had no issues starting her prior to the sale. First thing I've done was clean the rust and coat it with some Rustoleum and some rubber undercoating.. However, I do have some questions:

-Brake pedal won't come back up once depressed (is that common) any diagnosis?
-Transfer case shifter is stuck on 4H.. won't come to 4L (Yes, I put the car in Neutral first) but it won't budge.
-Sunroof won't open, I can hear the relay and the switch working... but the thing won't open nor tilt.
- IS there a step-by-step video on how to remove the spare tire? I believe I'm missing the socket that allows the spare to release.

Thanks, everyone!
 
Search is your friend, most of these items have been covered already. Be sure to search “this forum” only and you’ll find lots of helpful info.
-Brake pedal won't come back up once depressed (is that common) any diagnosis?
- Not common. Check to see if the return spring has come off of the brake pedal under the dash.
-Transfer case shifter is stuck on 4H.. won't come to 4L (Yes, I put the car in Neutral first) but it won't budge.
- A not-so-common issue, but basically the lever pivot is frozen due to lack of use. This one can get ugly. Start here: Can't shift into 4 Low
-Sunroof won't open, I can hear the relay and the switch working... but the thing won't open nor tilt.
- Yup, this is another use-it-or-loose-it issue. The cables get frozen in the tracks from corrosion or ancient gummed-up grease. Gotta drop the headliner and remove and service the whole assembly. Be thankful it’s not stuck open now that fall is coming.
- IS there a step-by-step video on how to remove the spare tire? I believe I'm missing the socket that allows the spare to release.
- The hook end of the long jack rod sticks through the hole in the rear bumper skin just under the tailgate, and engages a cable winch system.

Do you have the owners manual?
 
Hey everyone,

I recently made the best move to switch from Jeep to a LC. I've been seeing the LCs everywhere in the world.. and when I asked why they use them and not the Jeeps, they simple laughed and said LCs live forever... and they were right lol!

I scored a 100 series 1998 (northern) with 216k and some issues. It's a northern car so there's some rust under the rear bumper area but other than that it is good overall. The car has been sitting for a couple of years but the owner had no issues starting her prior to the sale. First thing I've done was clean the rust and coat it with some Rustoleum and some rubber undercoating.. However, I do have some questions:

-Brake pedal won't come back up once depressed (is that common) any diagnosis?
-Transfer case shifter is stuck on 4H.. won't come to 4L (Yes, I put the car in Neutral first) but it won't budge.
-Sunroof won't open, I can hear the relay and the switch working... but the thing won't open nor tilt.
- IS there a step-by-step video on how to remove the spare tire? I believe I'm missing the socket that allows the spare to release.

Thanks, everyone!

Suggest look through this whole thread from the beginning .....
.....it gives a range of ideas and pictures about what to do about the common problem of stuck transfer shifter on an LC100 (assuming that the problem is not inside the transfer case itself). The culprit is a shaft in the linkage sitting on top of the transfer case and below the floor of the vehicle -- time and lack of use allow corrosion to bind the shaft and its case. Some persevered with agile hands and arms, some dropped the transfer case to make working room using a jack and unbolting the rear supporting cross member, some have saw-cut holes to gain access through the floor to the relevant bolts -- -- take your pick.

LC100 transfer case shifter corrosion.jpg

(Pic by @Alexholl2015)

If you have a "105 series" which can have a different transfer case shifter, then the story can be a bit different as mentioned in the above thread by @HZJ105R.

To release the spare wheel, you need the long handle (comes in multiple pieces) from the vehicle toolkit and which is used with the jack -- if these are still with the vehicle. Also needed is a special "key" which goes on the end of said handle. It is common for the "key" to get lost -- if so, probably best to inquire at a Dealer (with your VIN) as to how to obtain a replacement that fits.

Here is a thread with a sad amount of rust but with enough pictures to give the idea:

The Rust Cruiser Spare Tire Winch Replacement

Even without serious rust being present, it is a good idea to try and get some penetrating oil or PB Blaster on to the winch mechanism and chain.

The "key" looks like this -- shown next to the socket which is part of the winch:

LC100 spare wheel key.jpg


.... and the handle:

LC100 Spare wheel lowering and jack handle.jpg
 
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Thanks for the write ups guys, I was able to use that to make some progress. I have fixed the spare tire issue, I was able to remove and I’m basically keeping it in the trunk for now. I was also able to diagnose the sunroof correctly based on what discussed above and will have to do the headliner things and get it figured out. I still haven’t figured out the brake issue yet though, once I press the brakes the pedal doesn’t return, I have decent brake power but the brake pedal only bounces back like 25% and yeah springs is there and everything looks normal. And I still haven’t gotten to the shifter... sprayed some WD-40 and I try to shift the lever with no luck but I’m no rush
 
Lube up the pivot points on the brake pedal mechanism and replace the spring. Pray to your favorite deity you don't have to touch the master cylinder.
 
..... coat it with some Rustoleum and some rubber undercoating.. ....
Rubber undercoating is good only on brand new cars. Covering already rusted areas with something is the worst you can do, unless you sandblast and galvanise first. An alternative is oil, Fluid Film or Krown.
 
Lube up the pivot points on the brake pedal mechanism and replace the spring. Pray to your favorite deity you don't have to touch the master cylinder.

So apparently I lost all my braking ability today... luckily i quickly reacted and used my e-brake. Anyhow, I'll start out with the master cylinder kit rebuilt and hopefully that does it for me
 
So apparently I lost all my braking ability today... luckily i quickly reacted and used my e-brake. Anyhow, I'll start out with the master cylinder kit rebuilt and hopefully that does it for me

If not already done, suggest do a search on IH8MUD for "brake accumulator" or "brake booster" and have a read of the relevant posts. Failure from these causes can be dramatic and dangerous as well as unwelcome. Hopefully this is not your problem as the fix is expensive (but not as expensive or disastrous as an accident resulting from brake failure).

See for example:

Late edit:

See also:

 
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Thank you guys, I went ahead and ordered a replacement unit for the brakes... as y'all have said, it is not worth an accident or a life.
On the bright side, I was able to follow the writeup and fixed my 4wd shift :D
 

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