New member Stevo, his 75 Series, and trip ahead! G'Day! (1 Viewer)

[Outbackstevo]

I am having mixed feedback to go the 1hz or 1hd-t sump, oil pick up + dipstick. I am waiting on Toyota to provide me a details on both sumps but have yet to get back to me. Google isn't being much help .

Current sump is

 

[chappohj47]

To give you less chance of a roll over dont make your troopy top heavy by placing heaps on a roof rack

 

[Locked79]

So perhaps like Clint mentioned I should look at pre 90 hj75s with 1hz sumps?

Hi Stevo, pre 1990 the 75s used a 2h diesel motor. It was only after 1990 when they went to the high pinion front diff, they changed to the 1hz. I'll see what I can find out about the different sumps.

 

[Locked79]

This 1hz sump is out of a 105. It looks to have a shallower middle section. Thing is, you may need a different oil pickup to use this sump.

 

[Locked79]

And this is the 2h sump. Notice the indentation on the pan, this is to clear the larger front diff. A modification of your sump to this effect will give you the clearance you need.

 

[Outbackstevo]

Cheers chappy, yeah don't think ill be putting roof racks on it.

Cheers Locked you have been a great help.. the 1hz does seem to have a shallower middle section however does it hold less oil overall? The current sump looks a lot bigger. Im guessing I would need to swap sump, oil feed and dipstick.

Could be easier just to notch the current sump. How would a notch effect oil levels would I have to change anything?

I have been quoted $300 for a notch job today.. the 1hz sumps alone without oil pickup or dipstick I have only seen them around $450 havn't had any luck with the wreckers.

Cheers guys, appreciate it !

 

[Outbackstevo]

would I get the HZJ75 1hz sump? or the 105 1hz sump? or are they the same thing

 

[Locked79]

From what I can remember, the 79 1hd and the 75 1hz sumps are the same, with the 105 1hz being different. I think it would be cheaper in the long run to modify yours because even with the 105 1hz sump, your still not sure its going to work for you.

I wouldn't loose sleep over how much oil capacity you'd loose by notching the sump.

EDIT. The 75 series sumps are indeed a whole lot different to the 1hd fte.

 

[Outbackstevo]

Good advice mate cheers, appreciate the help . Notching the sump it is !

Now for suspension next, then 35s, then decking out the inside.

Most major company's only do 2" lift kits, the only 3" 80mm kits out there use extended shackles which are illegal. As I said earlier I can get a engineer to cert 3" on 35s or 4" on 33s. Im looking to go 3" on 35s with a huge neg offset. No body lift all 3" in the leaf springs..

one shop said not to go 3" on 35s and said I will roll it.. then tried to sell me a 4" lift on 33s for $4500 installed ( steep price for suspension alone!)... I figure 3" on 35s would be a lot more stable than 4" on 33s.

So the work I would like done is
3" leaf spring lift kit.
1" diff relocation forward (snake racing or redrill)
35" tyres on beadlocks
I should get away with having minimal to no guard work required after moving the front diff forward 1" but shall see.

Havn't had much luck in the past few weeks asking shops.. going to have to look into getting some custom leaf springs made I think.. However I have found a shop who will install the suspension, relocate the diff forward 1" if I can bring the lift kit to him as he can only source 2" or 4" (I have no garage or level ground around my house. so will not be doing this job myself)

All the major brands, EFS, OME , Tuff dog etc do nothing in the line of 3" (EFS does a 80mm kit but uses extended shackles to get it.. can't get that engineered.)

trying Lovells suspension, Ultimate suspension, and better springs on Monday. Perhaps I can get custom leaf packs made up then get dobinsons to make some custom shocks.. not having much luck with this atm, any feedback would be greatly appreciated !

Cheers

 

[Locked79]

Hey Stevo,
Go and see a truck spring place or someone who specializes in heavy vehicle springs. They can reset your springs to any height you want (within reason). They will pull the pack apart, reset each individual leaf, then paint and reinstall. Runs about $300 each end up here. Just another option for you.

I don't know of any suspension places that do 3" leaf springs. Maybe get a custom set made.

 

[west aussie]

hows this project going?

 

[Outbackstevo]

Hey mate good, been abit busy this week with a few things.

Got the EFS 3" lift kit in, upgraded shocks to XTR. 80 searies rear in the front, and I forgot in the back 009 model number I think the 79 rear maybe I would have to check receipt don't have it with me atm.

I went with 350 rear and the heavy front, might repack the front later see how I go.

The XTR shocks give a longer travel upto 700mm and are a lot stronger.
XTR steering dampener.
Had to sort out the sway bar with a bit of metal to drop it down abit.


Purchases a nice little rear drawer sections, 2 slides, and side compartments for $300. Good start atleast get something in there before I build what I want to..

rust poofed and painted the whole under carrage, rouched up the bull bar and rear bar.. took up the lining in the back and the rust isn't as bad as I thought in there , I will be cutting it out, and repainting rear and front floor next week as im heading away for the weekend and have not had time.

So I will pull the draws out again, properly rust convert , grind, repaint.. redo the side panels and inside the sides with sound dred, marine, bolt the rear draws down..

Have put sun block out curtains in the back and sides..

Thinking about ordering some nitto mud grapplers from the states.. 35s

have not moved the diff forward yet, talked to my engineer im allowed to move the wheel base upto 50 mm. Snake racing is out of relocation plates till next year some time. Their lazy.

Might drill / heat the 1" relocation.

Need to work out what gear ratio I should run. with the 1hdfte atm it sits at 100 in 5th but doesn't like to go much past it without working the car.

Going to sort out diff ratio after wheels go on, and also front and rear locker. I hear TJM is the stronger but when they s*** themselves they take everything with it, ARB not so much.. might go ARB.

Re do the bearings..

then bars / bash plates.

THENNNNNNNNN half the car is done .

 

[61Mk+]

Hello Outbackstevo,
I hope you never regret your acquiring a Troopie.
I've had the same issues as you regarding the oil sump getting bashed about by the front diff. My Troopie's a '92, which came with the 1HZ, however i had the axles replaced with pre-1990 units as they are stronger. I subsequently found out that my oil pan was getting a good beating from the front diff (actually from the protector plate for the diff-lock mechanism).
I have a thread on the 70's forum, with pictures on my solution (i had help as i am a mechanical pretender); if you have a peek at that, you'll see what the solution was. It's called, 'A Troopie Finds Its Owner'. It is too early to tell you if it has been worthwhile, but it may be an idea for you.