New member post - G'day from Australia! (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Mar 25, 2020
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17
Location
Australia
G'day,

The name's Ben and I live in Queensland, Australia. This is my first time posting here but I've been reading this forum for years. I owned an FJ80 about 5 years ago and followed a de-smog tutorial I found on this forum. Unfortunately, I had to sell that vehicle due to circumstances at the time. Yesterday I purchased another FJ80 and as this place seems to be a friendly wealth of knowledge, I figure I should partake this time around!

About a fortnight ago my wife and I had to travel to our state capital for a skin cancer removal and lymph nodes biopsy (fortunately all clear!). After the hospital visit we decided to make the most of being in the big smoke.

I found a used car yard which had both a 1994 FZJ80 GXL and a 1998 FZJ105 RV, so we decided to go test driving! I'd always wanted to drive a 105 series, as well as a pre-1995 80 series with the 1FZ-FE after owning my previous 1991 FJ80. The pre-1995 FZJ80 is quoted as the same kerb weight as an FJ80.

The vehicles didn't disappoint and the 80 series felt a bit more 'peppy'. The RV is close to 'poverty pack' as it doesn't have a few features such as power windows, but still has the lift up back and automatic transmission with full-time 4WD/AWD. The vehicles were showing their age though and weren't my preference for a few reasons:

1: Both were fitted with aftermarket LPG systems. The complexity and regulations surrounding these systems is unattractive to me, especially with LPG falling out of fashion here.

2: Both were higher kilometre vehicles with over 400,000km (250,000mi) each.

3: The 105 series was about $10,500 and the 80 series was $11,500 (no idea why).

4: Call me crazy, but I guess I missed the tractor feel of the 3F-E. Fun Australian market facts: Liking a petrol in Australia is fairly crazy in and of itself - most are diesel obsessed. I prefer automatics for off road adventures and the 1HZ diesel 80 series was never available here in automatic, only the very expensive 1HD-F and 1HD-FT. The 1HZ was available in automatic on the HZJ105 series - very very rare and still quite expensive. There's also the HDJ100 auto with the 1HD-FTE. More affordable diesel automatics can be found in the 2H and 12HT 60/61 series vehicles. I prefer petrol Landcruisers for a number of reasons, some of which are their lack of timing belts (generally) and their lower likelihood of fuel system problems after contamination.

Back to the story, we politely thanked the staff for their time and left the car yard. A few days after getting home I spotted online an FJ80 for $3900 on the Gold Coast. It had about 315,000km (195,730mi) on the clock and is a GXL model, with full-time 4WD/AWD, 8 seats, electrics, lift up back etc.

20200329_100315.jpg


I made a deposit on the vehicle, sight unseen, after negotiating $3500. It came with a roadworthy/safety certificate and current registration until August, allowing me to transfer legal ownership straight away. I picked the vehicle up yesterday around 8:00 a.m. , having left home just after 3:00 a.m. The vehicle is stock, other than an aftermarket stereo, front seat covers, an alloy roof rack and an alloy bull bar. I assume the bull bar was a factory/dealer option here as they're very common. There is some surface rust around the vehicle from being used for beach fishing/boat towing. The owner briefly showed me around the car, then my wife started heading home and I drove 2.5 hours north - where I'd found an affordable ARB steel winch bar for $300.

The first 50km (30mi) or so, sitting at 110kph (70mph) on the motorway was fine. Then a severe vibration started for no apparent reason. The whole car was vibrating violently - but I noticed it became worse as I increased speed. I assumed the cause was something rational and after a brief phone call with the previous owner, I assumed it was the rear passenger tyre. The tyre had been swapped with the spare, in order to pass roadworthy certification as it was a bit bald. I had theorised a wheel weight had fallen off, causing an imbalance after being suddenly subjected to 110kph (70mph) after years of sitting spare underneath the vehicle.

20200328_101332.jpg


One wheel change later and I was on the road again, vibration-free! I picked up the ARB steel winch bar around 12:30 p.m. and travelled home, arriving around 4:30 p.m. It was a challenging drive home, tired and carefully avoiding bumps in the road as the ARB bar was in the cabin and might smash a window! I had completed about 500km (310mi) drive in the 80 series on it's first day.

Today I changed the bull bars over. The 30yr old rusted bolts were lots of fun... (my homemade breaker bar and beers were required!)

20200329_103520.jpg

20200329_114120.jpg

20200329_135958.jpg


I am waiting on parts to arrive in the mail so I can perform the following:

Replace the oil filter, transmission filter, spark plugs, leads, coil pack, distributor cap and rotor. I've also ordered the bits to perform a de-smog (minus the catalytic converter removal - I might change the exhaust at a later date). I've noticed the car started after only a couple of cranks yesterday, today it turns over much longer and starts if I press the accelerator. The previous owner ran 98 octane fuel, I have fueled up with 91 octane (standard here). I can't see this being an issue, considering many on this forum run standard 87. Perhaps I should order a fuel filter as well?

Anyway, if this has been an interesting post, please let me know. I can post updates and photos for further modifications and adventures if people are interested. This is my weekend vehicle - my wife was becoming annoyed with the pinstriped paint on her GRJ150 Landcruiser Prado when I'd borrow it to camp in the forest.

I apologise for any typos or errors in this post, I haven't had much sleep this weekend. Take care and thanks for reading!

Ben
 
Welcome to the forum! Interesting tale, as there are so many more options in Land Cruisers in Australia. Just getting ready to hit the sack so will be brief. I think you'll fit right in here.
 
Welcome to Mud!
 
Welcome! Love to see some money shots under the bonnet and her undercarriage.
 
Welcome Aboard! I would reckon it's probably fuel filter time at 315,000 - probably never been done before
 
Thanks for the warm welcome, all!

Welcome Aboard! I would reckon it's probably fuel filter time at 315,000 - probably never been done before

I figure if I'm going to change the fuel filter I might as well do the sock on the pump as well. Maybe I'll even replace the whole pump while I'm in there. I'll have to research the recommended pumps on Mud as I can't see any OEM ones on eBay Australia. I have noticed today that turning the ignition to on and then off 2-3 times before actually attempting to start the vehicle seems to start more reliably. I figure the fuel pump briefly primes itself to start the vehicle in the 'on' position? At least some of my previous vehicles have.

Welcome! Love to see some money shots under the bonnet and her undercarriage.

Here's some pictures for you. She's pretty rusty underneath! Hopefully nothing important will rust through anytime soon.

20200330_121023.jpg

20200330_121047.jpg

20200330_121115.jpg

20200330_121138.jpg
 
Welcome to the board! Cheers!
 
I figure the fuel pump briefly primes itself to start the vehicle in the 'on' position? At least some of my previous vehicles have.



Here's some pictures for you. She's pretty rusty underneath! Hopefully nothing important will rust through anytime soon.

The fuel pump on these does not run until the engine is cranking. It takes the signal from the crank sensor before it allows the FP to operate.


May consider getting Fluid Film or Wool Wax to spray underneath that truck. That will help slow the rust.
 
SNIP

Here's some pictures for you. She's pretty rusty underneath! Hopefully nothing important will rust through anytime soon.
SNIP

The first irritating thing that usually shows up with rust underneath is that the emergency brake cables and lever attachments on the rear axle get rusted up. I managed to free up one of mine with some rust-busting spray, but the other is hung up with rust. The E brake still works but not very well at this point on our truck. Gotta get that fixed before heading for the mountains.
 
Last night I finally got around to checking my tyre pressures. Front left was 42psi, front right was 44psi, rear left was 27psi (the one swapped on in my first post) and rear right was 37psi. Needless to say, it's driving much better after correcting the tyre pressures :rofl:

I've noticed my steering is a bit heavier than it should be. I'm thinking I might change my power steering fluid and re-grease my birfields (the lazy inspection hole way) this weekend. I've only used a grease gun once, many years ago so I'm wondering... are they one size fits all? I'm guessing there's no 'attachment' required for the birfield inspection hole but I'm thinking of doing the zerks (we call them grease nipples in Australia) around the vehicle at the same time. Can I get away with using moly grease/high temperature bearing grease for the birfields, zerks and wheel bearings (when I get time to do them) ? Thought I should ask about this before I go out and buy a grease gun and grease.

Last night when I was checking/correcting my tyre pressures I spotted an oxygen sensor cable was hanging fairly loose and a little too close to the exhaust for comfort. I've temporary fixed this with a zip tie in the engine bay (and duct tape to prevent any zip tie rubbing damage). I didn't see a second oxygen sensor after a quick glance in the dark. I think my previous '91 FJ80 had 2x oxygen sensors? I also tightened a zip tie around the plastic steering column cover in the cab as it was rattling a little over bumps. Fixing the little things all adds up! :cool:

Image6086391816186006253.jpg


The fuel pump on these does not run until the engine is cranking. It takes the signal from the crank sensor before it allows the FP to operate.

May consider getting Fluid Film or Wool Wax to spray underneath that truck. That will help slow the rust.

Appreciate the info, BILT4ME! Further testing yesterday confirms what you're saying. The previous owner also stated "If it doesn't start after the first couple of cranks, stop, wait 10 seconds and it'll usually start straight away on the next attempt" so that makes sense if it primes when it cranks.

Thanks for the suggestions regarding the rust. I live well away from the coast, out in the dust which should help a little, but I was thinking about this myself. I wasn't aware of any products but it looks like Fluid Film is available here in Australia and I can get it in a convenient aerosol spray can! I feel like I'll need a few cans... Maybe I should just get a jar of the stuff and paint brush it on... :cool: Should I use a rust treatment product first? I've also seen that 'rubber paint' which people apply to their vehicle undercarriages - I imaging you've got to remove e-brake cables, drive shafts etc. before applying that stuff. Probably something I'd get a professional workshop to do.

The first irritating thing that usually shows up with rust underneath is that the emergency brake cables and lever attachments on the rear axle get rusted up. I managed to free up one of mine with some rust-busting spray, but the other is hung up with rust. The E brake still works but not very well at this point on our truck. Gotta get that fixed before heading for the mountains.

Thanks for the suggestion, Greentruck! I'll keep an eye on that. My e-brake is still working fine. Perhaps frequent use helps keep it from seizing up. I suppose greasing the lever attachments and cable (where it contacts) would go a long way too! I'll have a look when I do the birfields and zerks 👍


Here's a happy snap from yesterday. I've only just now noticed that the front door strip doesn't match! I'd like to remove those strips and de-flare the vehicle when money and time permit. Should look better with my planned 235/85R16 tyres too.
Image1315629633362534754.jpg
 
Updates:

In the last week I've de-smogged my 80, minus removing the catalytic converters as I haven't touched the exhaust yet. As I couldnt get the union out of the exhaust to install my blanking cap, I did the Australian version of the quarter coin trick. I also made my own intake manifold EGR blanking plate, sponsored by HP Pavilion:rofl:. The vehicle is starting easier now.

Before:
20200402_212533.jpg

20200401_194759.jpg


After:
20200402_212557.jpg

20200402_212613.jpg

20200402_210859.jpg


I've still got to tidy up the wiring. Any suggestions?
 
Additional photos:

Making the intake manifold EGR blanking plate:
20200402_192037.jpg


20200406_142458.jpg


Air injection manifold blanked:
20200405_135652.jpg


Removed parts, minus the drive belt and bracket attaching the air pump to the alternator:

20200404_140041.jpg


Steps removed, roof rack painted (roughly):
20200406_095638.jpg
 
G'day,

The name's Ben and I live in Queensland, Australia. This is my first time posting here but I've been reading this forum for years. I owned an FJ80 about 5 years ago and followed a de-smog tutorial I found on this forum. Unfortunately, I had to sell that vehicle due to circumstances at the time. Yesterday I purchased another FJ80 and as this place seems to be a friendly wealth of knowledge, I figure I should partake this time around!

About a fortnight ago my wife and I had to travel to our state capital for a skin cancer removal and lymph nodes biopsy (fortunately all clear!). After the hospital visit we decided to make the most of being in the big smoke.

I found a used car yard which had both a 1994 FZJ80 GXL and a 1998 FZJ105 RV, so we decided to go test driving! I'd always wanted to drive a 105 series, as well as a pre-1995 80 series with the 1FZ-FE after owning my previous 1991 FJ80. The pre-1995 FZJ80 is quoted as the same kerb weight as an FJ80.

The vehicles didn't disappoint and the 80 series felt a bit more 'peppy'. The RV is close to 'poverty pack' as it doesn't have a few features such as power windows, but still has the lift up back and automatic transmission with full-time 4WD/AWD. The vehicles were showing their age though and weren't my preference for a few reasons:

1: Both were fitted with aftermarket LPG systems. The complexity and regulations surrounding these systems is unattractive to me, especially with LPG falling out of fashion here.

2: Both were higher kilometre vehicles with over 400,000km (250,000mi) each.

3: The 105 series was about $10,500 and the 80 series was $11,500 (no idea why).

4: Call me crazy, but I guess I missed the tractor feel of the 3F-E. Fun Australian market facts: Liking a petrol in Australia is fairly crazy in and of itself - most are diesel obsessed. I prefer automatics for off road adventures and the 1HZ diesel 80 series was never available here in automatic, only the very expensive 1HD-F and 1HD-FT. The 1HZ was available in automatic on the HZJ105 series - very very rare and still quite expensive. There's also the HDJ100 auto with the 1HD-FTE. More affordable diesel automatics can be found in the 2H and 12HT 60/61 series vehicles. I prefer petrol Landcruisers for a number of reasons, some of which are their lack of timing belts (generally) and their lower likelihood of fuel system problems after contamination.

Back to the story, we politely thanked the staff for their time and left the car yard. A few days after getting home I spotted online an FJ80 for $3900 on the Gold Coast. It had about 315,000km (195,730mi) on the clock and is a GXL model, with full-time 4WD/AWD, 8 seats, electrics, lift up back etc.

View attachment 2252761

I made a deposit on the vehicle, sight unseen, after negotiating $3500. It came with a roadworthy/safety certificate and current registration until August, allowing me to transfer legal ownership straight away. I picked the vehicle up yesterday around 8:00 a.m. , having left home just after 3:00 a.m. The vehicle is stock, other than an aftermarket stereo, front seat covers, an alloy roof rack and an alloy bull bar. I assume the bull bar was a factory/dealer option here as they're very common. There is some surface rust around the vehicle from being used for beach fishing/boat towing. The owner briefly showed me around the car, then my wife started heading home and I drove 2.5 hours north - where I'd found an affordable ARB steel winch bar for $300.

The first 50km (30mi) or so, sitting at 110kph (70mph) on the motorway was fine. Then a severe vibration started for no apparent reason. The whole car was vibrating violently - but I noticed it became worse as I increased speed. I assumed the cause was something rational and after a brief phone call with the previous owner, I assumed it was the rear passenger tyre. The tyre had been swapped with the spare, in order to pass roadworthy certification as it was a bit bald. I had theorised a wheel weight had fallen off, causing an imbalance after being suddenly subjected to 110kph (70mph) after years of sitting spare underneath the vehicle.

View attachment 2252762

One wheel change later and I was on the road again, vibration-free! I picked up the ARB steel winch bar around 12:30 p.m. and travelled home, arriving around 4:30 p.m. It was a challenging drive home, tired and carefully avoiding bumps in the road as the ARB bar was in the cabin and might smash a window! I had completed about 500km (310mi) drive in the 80 series on it's first day.

Today I changed the bull bars over. The 30yr old rusted bolts were lots of fun... (my homemade breaker bar and beers were required!)

View attachment 2252767
View attachment 2252764
View attachment 2252768

I am waiting on parts to arrive in the mail so I can perform the following:

Replace the oil filter, transmission filter, spark plugs, leads, coil pack, distributor cap and rotor. I've also ordered the bits to perform a de-smog (minus the catalytic converter removal - I might change the exhaust at a later date). I've noticed the car started after only a couple of cranks yesterday, today it turns over much longer and starts if I press the accelerator. The previous owner ran 98 octane fuel, I have fueled up with 91 octane (standard here). I can't see this being an issue, considering many on this forum run standard 87. Perhaps I should order a fuel filter as well?

Anyway, if this has been an interesting post, please let me know. I can post updates and photos for further modifications and adventures if people are interested. This is my weekend vehicle - my wife was becoming annoyed with the pinstriped paint on her GRJ150 Landcruiser Prado when I'd borrow it to camp in the forest.

I apologise for any typos or errors in this post, I haven't had much sleep this weekend. Take care and thanks for reading!

Ben
what? No XXXX?!? Man, I miss that stuff. Yes, I know why they call it XXXX
 
welcome, great rig. stinking arb is unbeatable tho. cheers
 
Nice truck! Welcome fellow 3FE'er. Aussie GXL spec is my favourite 80-series look.
 
Mounted an awning, my spare tyre and some Maxtrax to my roof rack:

20200408_151507.jpg

20200408_174548.jpg


The return to centre shock was replaced to obtain a roadworthy/safety certificate prior to myself buying the vehicle. I thought the steering was a bit heavier than it should be, mainly turning right. Yesterday I noticed green smelly fluid leaking on the driveway. Fortunately it wasn't coolant as I'd guessed. Today I found and removed the cause of the leak:

20200408_135719.jpg

20200408_135644.jpg

received_738953969842204.jpeg



what? No XXXX?!? Man, I miss that stuff. Yes, I know why they call it XXXX

I'm usually a XXXX man (including this evening). I occasionally drink Coopers after acquiring the taste in 2017/2018 (Mt Dare Hotel) and 2018 (Cameron Corner Store) while touring outback SA 🍻


Nice truck! Welcome fellow 3FE'er. Aussie GXL spec is my favourite 80-series look.

Cheers! I believe most GXL have black flares here. I'd like to remove my flares at some point.
 

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