New member of the club. 01' w/ 176K. Great condition, minor issues (1 Viewer)

Aug 24, 2020
Just joined the club!! 01' w/ 176K. No rust. AHC moves about 9-10 grads. Timing belt, W/P, plugs, and head gaskets just replaced. Interior is immaculate. Exterior has a few wear & tear scratches, but nothing major. No leaks on the motor. Runs great. I'm very happy.

PLANS in order:
-New head unit to replace ML w/o nav. Already re-foramed the subwoofer. Going to keep the ML system for now. Need my audio
-HIDs in stock projectors. Dvr side is out, so i have to replace anyway. Probably not going to do the $$ projector housing upgrade. I'm going to stick with the cheap Chinese HIDs, until after I've made sure all the repairs are done.
-Replace heater T's
-Flush AHC system. Seems to be working fine now, but likely needs some maintenance. No leaks on actuators and globes look good. I have to learn how to check pressures. Something I can do myself
-Determine if this is a leak from the steering rack boot, or just from grease flung from pass CV axle

-Replace passenger CV axle or boot. With 176K, might be time for a new axle. I might be able to do this myself.

-Diagnose leak in rear drive shaft. I don't know if it's a seal I need to replace or the whole drive shaft

-fix leak in diff fill plug

-Diagnose slight jump/jolt when in gear and first hit the gas. Very soft, but noticeable. Feels like there may be a worn bushing or something, however they all look good. Gotta get it up on a lift to check for play somewhere.
-Floor mats
-window tints
-New wheels/tires

Hopefully none of these issue are too major. Looking forward to playing with this truck. Any tips or suggestions appreciated. Thanks.


Clarksonian disciple
Feb 6, 2020
Atlantis - recently discovered in the Rust Belt
For the driveline, generously grease the zerks (6 of them) first. Easy, cheap, probably needs to be done anyways. Good chance it helps with the "clunk"

For the diff plug, just buy a new one from Mr. T with the correct washer. If that doesn't work, you'll have a rethreading job on your hands, yuck.

Your truck is my truck's doppelganger minus the ML system. Congrats!
Dec 4, 2017
Shade, Ohio
For that rear driveshaft 'leak', thats just where the grease slides out after you completely grease it so you know its full, then it gets flung all over.
If your rack is just leaking, I'd consider some stop leak to buy some time. I forget the brand everybody uses.
For the CVs, you might just consider new clamps and call it done.


Overlanding is an expensive word for car camping.
Apr 16, 2019
Tie Rod: probably not a rack leak. Pinch the outboard clip so there is a gap and squeeze the boot with your whole hand. If there is fluid built up in there it'll come out. That looks very much like the CV slinging fluid. If the rack IS leaking, get some AT20.

Rear shaft: As noted, just grease from the slip yolk. Recommended for that slip yolk is NGLI 1 or 2 with moly. I find that grease with moly in it separates quicker/is thinner when warmed up. It just slings more. I switched back to NGLI #2 red and tacky because the moly stuff had me greasing the thing all the time and didn't seem to make a difference. Also, convenient to not be switching tubes in the gun.

Diff Plug: just pull it and just get a replacement copper crush washer for like $.50. It's just a fill plug, and the fluid you're looking at there is nominal and likely from someone topping it off and not getting the thing tight. Even if you do water crossings, you're not going to get fluid in from that fill plug leak - it gets pulled past old axle seals when your breather is clogged or through the breather itself if you go deep.

Front CV: That looks like a very minor leak. The boot isn't torn, you just need a new clamp. I'd get a new band clamp and a squeeze pack of CV grease from Toyota. Remove old clamp, squeeze that new grease in and put a new clamp on.

Headlights: I'd recommend ditching HID bulbs without the projector housing and going to a set of $30 Silverstars or something similar which are designed for use in reflector housings. The HID's throw light everywhere and are only good at increasing your likelihood you blind someone and they hit you head-on. In snow/fog they are going to make you snow blind and in rain they are terrible. HID's are GREAT in proper projector housings, but the next best thing is the factory housing with a bulb designed for them.

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