New member intro / purchase advice (1 Viewer)

Joined
Jan 24, 2021
Messages
20
Location
St. Louis, MO
Yes sir. Overall the truck has been great! It has been in the family since '09. In 2015 I did have to replace the engine due to a spark plug getting into the engine. My 2000 has 200000 miles on the truck and 150000 miles on a rebuilt engine. As with all trucks that reach 200000 miles on it and that are 21 years old things will fail. I am trying to become handy with the truck but it is always good to have a great mechanic that knows these trucks inside and out. I personally would try to find the best example you can that fits your budget. I saw that 100 series pop up on cargurus over the weekend. It looks to be in pretty good shape. 13K sounds a little high in our market. That 10K-11K range seems like a better fit. Don't hesitate to reach out if you have quesions about LC ownership.
Thanks Jack, always nice to meet someone else in the 'Lou! Hopefully I can talk them down to around 11k, or at least include some extra service in the deal at 13k. I've got a pretty good mechanic that's done good work on my Tundra, but I may give MT a shot since they're pretty close too. And as much as I want to wrench on my own truck, I just never seem to find the time.
 
Joined
Jan 24, 2021
Messages
20
Location
St. Louis, MO
I know a lot of people on this forum think anything above $9k is outrageous for nothing but a pristine cruiser but the market has changed since they bought their 100. Honestly, if you tell him you'll give him $8k, he's gonna tell you to go kick rocks. Someone else will show up and happily buy it for around $13k in this market. I haven't seen a single 100 series under 10k and I have a nationwide search set up on a couple sites. I don't have a search set up for craigslist or autotrader and sometimes there are some cheap ones on there. I will get lots of flak for that comment, but I wanted to share my opinion after being in the market in the past year and a half. That being said, I still think you can bring that price down a bit.

From that one photo, the rust is minimal, but I'd be interested to see what the front suspension components and rear frame look like to really gauge the rust. I've found that area of the truck doesn't rust as bad since its far from the wheels.

CVs probably gave it up because of the lift. I wonder what else is affected by the lift and the worn CVs. It would probably be great to take it on the highway but that might be hard. I would bring up the lack of a timing belt job and work on the price. And since there is no record of timing belt, I wonder what else hasn't been serviced? Check the color of the coolant - that'll tell you what kind of owner it was.

Good luck! And I'll tell you what everyone says on this forum: be patient. Well, at least try to be patient.
Thanks @Red Beard, I definitely appreciate the feedback. I wouldn't be so quick to jump into one if I hadn't already seen some decent ones in my market get snapped up faster than the dealer can post pics.

I'll try to get more pics of the undercarriage/suspension next time I go look at it. Dealer has to replace the CV first, then I'll be able to test drive it (hopefully by Wednesday of this week). Said there was a torn boot when they looked at it, and that's why the axle went. I also think the lift may have had an adverse effect on the CV's. No record of when it was installed unfortunately. Also not sure if they did a diff drop or anything to correct the angles. I'll definitely check the color of the coolant when I'm out too.

And I'll TRY to be patient. It's just soooooo hard.
 
Joined
Oct 14, 2004
Messages
3,607
Location
Virginia Beach, VA
I know a lot of people on this forum think anything above $9k is outrageous for nothing but a pristine cruiser but the market has changed since they bought their 100. Honestly, if you tell him you'll give him $8k, he's gonna tell you to go kick rocks. Someone else will show up and happily buy it for around $13k in this market. I haven't seen a single 100 series under 10k and I have a nationwide search set up on a couple sites. I don't have a search set up for craigslist or autotrader and sometimes there are some cheap ones on there. I will get lots of flak for that comment, but I wanted to share my opinion after being in the market in the past year and a half. That being said, I still think you can bring that price down a bit.

From that one photo, the rust is minimal, but I'd be interested to see what the front suspension components and rear frame look like to really gauge the rust. I've found that area of the truck doesn't rust as bad since its far from the wheels.

CVs probably gave it up because of the lift. I wonder what else is affected by the lift and the worn CVs. It would probably be great to take it on the highway but that might be hard. I would bring up the lack of a timing belt job and work on the price. And since there is no record of timing belt, I wonder what else hasn't been serviced? Check the color of the coolant - that'll tell you what kind of owner it was.

Good luck! And I'll tell you what everyone says on this forum: be patient. Well, at least try to be patient.

I agree with the be patient comment and will add that if you are willing to travel, something will come up. I regularly see early 100s in the Richmond area for 5-7k

This one is a little rough, but he has the bumpers and it may just need a good cleaning... Toyota Land Cruiser 100 Series, 2002 - cars & trucks - by owner -... - https://eastnc.craigslist.org/cto/d/greenville-toyota-land-cruiser-100/7259487916.html

For reference, my 100s were priced as follows

Daughters 1999 w/210k--bought in 2017 from a friend at work who was moving out of the country $3,000 bone stock
My 1999 w 260k--bought from a friend mid 2020, paid what he paid in 2019, $5,500 with Front and rear bumpers and sliders.
Wife's 2000 w/215k-- Bought early 2020 from a forum member, $8,000; Immaculate condition, full maintenance history, brand new duratracs, sliders, arb w/winch installed, and upgraded suspension.

Point is: you don't have to overpay. There is a premium to be paid when buying from a dealer, but don't think for a minute that they paid more than 4k for that one on trade in. Deal hard or walk.

obligatory pic:
20200713_172536_HDR.jpg
 
Joined
Apr 7, 2017
Messages
103
Location
Iowa
OP. I live in central Iowa. I have a 2000 LC I am thinking about selling. 210k miles. Replaced the entire throttle body, radiator, 2nd water pump and timing belt, tensioner and pulley system, thermostat and hoses in the past month. It has new breaks all around and new rear rotors in the last year. New front axle, cv boots and bearing, bearings repacked in the last year. Heater T’s done in the last couple of years. Geolander AT’s with plenty of tread. Has a long list of previous maintenance from Toyota before I bought it. I am the 3rd owner. The interior is perfect besides the carpet needing a cleaning. No rips on the seats, has 3rd row seats. It does have some rust underneath, but nothing horrible, no frame rot. No body rust. It has been a mall and highway cruiser. Never been off-road.
only issues are the AC. I put a couple of cans of Freon in during the summer and it’s fine, but obviously has a leak. Power steering return has a leak but has sealed itself off so I have not addressed it. I hit a doe a couple of years ago, it only required a new grill and light housing. Did nothing to the hood, bumper or fender.
I have invested over $4k in the last year. Was thinking of asking $12k OBO. Not sure if you would be interested or if Iowa is too far to travel? If interested I could get you some pics and video later this week.
 
Joined
Jan 24, 2021
Messages
20
Location
St. Louis, MO
OP. I live in central Iowa. I have a 2000 LC I am thinking about selling. 210k miles. Replaced the entire throttle body, radiator, 2nd water pump and timing belt, tensioner and pulley system, thermostat and hoses in the past month. It has new breaks all around and new rear rotors in the last year. New front axle, cv boots and bearing, bearings repacked in the last year. Heater T’s done in the last couple of years. Geolander AT’s with plenty of tread. Has a long list of previous maintenance from Toyota before I bought it. I am the 3rd owner. The interior is perfect besides the carpet needing a cleaning. No rips on the seats, has 3rd row seats. It does have some rust underneath, but nothing horrible, no frame rot. No body rust. It has been a mall and highway cruiser. Never been off-road.
only issues are the AC. I put a couple of cans of Freon in during the summer and it’s fine, but obviously has a leak. Power steering return has a leak but has sealed itself off so I have not addressed it. I hit a doe a couple of years ago, it only required a new grill and light housing. Did nothing to the hood, bumper or fender.
I have invested over $4k in the last year. Was thinking of asking $12k OBO. Not sure if you would be interested or if Iowa is too far to travel? If interested I could get you some pics and video later this week.
Thanks Runner, appreciate the offer! Central Iowa's not too terribly far, but my travel time is pretty limited by my work schedule. I'd love to see some pics though, sounds like a pretty good truck.
 
Joined
Sep 10, 2013
Messages
2,258
Location
Jackson, WY
Welcome. I’m a fellow St. Louis 100 series owner. I’ll second brad at MT scheile

good luck with the search. Nice $8k 100s do not exist anymore

I wouldn’t buy a 98/99 without a rear locker. I would hold out for one with a locker or get atrac.
 
Joined
Jan 24, 2021
Messages
20
Location
St. Louis, MO
Welcome. I’m a fellow St. Louis 100 series owner. I’ll second brad at MT scheile

good luck with the search. Nice $8k 100s do not exist anymore

I wouldn’t buy a 98/99 without a rear locker. I would hold out for one with a locker or get atrac.
Thanks krice, appreciate the second on MT Schiele. I called over there the other day to ask about the PPI and they were very helpful.

Thanks for the input on the rear locker, it's one of the main reasons I'm having second thoughts about the one for sale at Wolfe. Not that I think I'd need it often, but I definitely want it since it's available.

Another question for ya, (and also to any other STL guys that happen to stumble in here), is there anywhere within a few hours of STL to do any offroading? I've done some wheeling on some private property, but I'm curious if there are other places to go. I know St. Joe's has ATV trails, but is there anywhere for bigger rigs?
 
Joined
Aug 10, 2020
Messages
18
Location
St Louis MO
Thanks krice, appreciate the second on MT Schiele. I called over there the other day to ask about the PPI and they were very helpful.

Thanks for the input on the rear locker, it's one of the main reasons I'm having second thoughts about the one for sale at Wolfe. Not that I think I'd need it often, but I definitely want it since it's available.

Another question for ya, (and also to any other STL guys that happen to stumble in here), is there anywhere within a few hours of STL to do any offroading? I've done some wheeling on some private property, but I'm curious if there are other places to go. I know St. Joe's has ATV trails, but is there anywhere for bigger rigs?
There are places to off road, but you're going to have to drive. Mark Twain National Forest is probably your best bet. There are trails over in Shawnee (IL side) as well. Land Between the Lakes isn't too far either. DM me if you want and I can share local FB groups to get involved in if you're interested.
 
Joined
Jan 24, 2021
Messages
20
Location
St. Louis, MO
If anyone's still following this, I did it. I pulled the trigger today on the '99 I first posted about. I got the call from the dealer yesterday that the CV's were done, and I could come by for a test drive. The second I got the truck off the lot I knew I had to have it. The ride with the lift was incredible, and was exactly what I was looking for in a rig. Streets and highway were smooth and took a couple big speed bumps like a champ. Can't wait to give this thing a decent challenge. This was also after driving a few stock 100's this week that just never left me with that "gotta have it" feeling. After pulling over in a gas station and doing a thorough rust inspection (only spot I found was a quarter sized piece of surface rust on the frame behind the front passenger wheel well, but it's in a spot that easily fixable. Needless to say I mentioned this as a major concern to the dealer ;) along with the seam rip in the front drivers seat (also easily repairable).

All in all, I think I got a pretty fair deal. I got the dealer to drop the price around 1k to compensate for the rust repair, missing third row seats, ripped seat, and lack of a rear locker, and they're including a timing belt/water pump service and heater T's before I take delivery. So 12k all in with almost all the common repairs done.

Thanks to everyone for the advice, and I look forward to being a part of the community! Also, if anyone has a set of tan third row seats they're looking to get rid of, I'll gladly take them off your hand. 😃

LC Rain.jpg
 
Joined
May 20, 2016
Messages
952
Location
La Mirada, ca
If anyone's still following this, I did it. I pulled the trigger today on the '99 I first posted about. I got the call from the dealer yesterday that the CV's were done, and I could come by for a test drive. The second I got the truck off the lot I knew I had to have it. The ride with the lift was incredible, and was exactly what I was looking for in a rig. Streets and highway were smooth and took a couple big speed bumps like a champ. Can't wait to give this thing a decent challenge. This was also after driving a few stock 100's this week that just never left me with that "gotta have it" feeling. After pulling over in a gas station and doing a thorough rust inspection (only spot I found was a quarter sized piece of surface rust on the frame behind the front passenger wheel well, but it's in a spot that easily fixable. Needless to say I mentioned this as a major concern to the dealer ;) along with the seam rip in the front drivers seat (also easily repairable).

All in all, I think I got a pretty fair deal. I got the dealer to drop the price around 1k to compensate for the rust repair, missing third row seats, ripped seat, and lack of a rear locker, and they're including a timing belt/water pump service and heater T's before I take delivery. So 12k all in with almost all the common repairs done.

Thanks to everyone for the advice, and I look forward to being a part of the community! Also, if anyone has a set of tan third row seats they're looking to get rid of, I'll gladly take them off your hand. 😃

View attachment 2570560
Truck looks bad ass. Now deal those running boards ASAP lol
 
Joined
Aug 20, 2011
Messages
443
Location
Great Falls, MT
I would say at current rates you did just fine. For reference I purchased my 99 for 6500, paid for the timing belt/waterpump, replaced the alternator, and threw new tires on which left me right around 12k invested.
Cheers,
Scot
IMG_3100.jpg
 
Joined
Jan 24, 2021
Messages
20
Location
St. Louis, MO
Truck looks bad ass. Now deal those running boards ASAP lol
Those are definitely on the way out, since they’re pretty chewed in a few spots already.


I would say at current rates you did just fine. For reference I purchased my 99 for 6500, paid for the timing belt/waterpump, replaced the alternator, and threw new tires on which left me right around 12k invested.
Cheers,
ScotView attachment 2570593
Thanks Scot, appreciate the perspective! Your rig looks great, what front bumper is that?


Congrats! I’d love to get a STL 100 trip together or at least a meet up when the weather gets nice.
That would be awesome @krice118, you could count me in on a local meet!
Congrats on the new ride! And congrats on Nolan Arenado, very good week for you!

I'm in Colorado now, but grew up in Belleville, IL.
Thanks Zrem, and that Arenado trade is very exciting...unless you’ve become a Rockies fan living out in Colorado, lol :D
Nice find. Congrats on the new rig. Like ZREM, I'm also a Belleville IL native. Living in Arizona now. Small world on Mud.
Thanks AZ, and it really is a small world on here!
 
Joined
Oct 14, 2004
Messages
3,607
Location
Virginia Beach, VA
Nice!

Just one note on a 99--the front diff is pretty weak, and if you wheel any harder than forest roads, you'll definitely break it if you are not real careful. I have a diff from an 01 in mine as we blew it up on a hill climb a couple years ago. The only budget auto locker is lokka out of australia. Shipping takes a bit, but it is a solid product at a good price point.

Congrats!
 
Joined
Jan 24, 2021
Messages
20
Location
St. Louis, MO
Nice!

Just one note on a 99--the front diff is pretty weak, and if you wheel any harder than forest roads, you'll definitely break it if you are not real careful. I have a diff from an 01 in mine as we blew it up on a hill climb a couple years ago. The only budget auto locker is lokka out of australia. Shipping takes a bit, but it is a solid product at a good price point.

Congrats!
Thanks Kliers, good tip on the front Diff, I'll try to be nice to it. I hadn't heard of Lokka before, I'll have to check those out.
 
Joined
Aug 20, 2011
Messages
443
Location
Great Falls, MT
Thanks Scot, appreciate the perspective! Your rig looks great, what front bumper is that?
It's the TJM17. I'm pretty happy with how it looks. Most importantly I feel it will help the front end if I ever come across one of those suicidal deer. A few months ago I had a kia rio turn in-front of me on a oneway street. Only damage to my rig was some extra silver paint on the bumper:cool:
 
Joined
Sep 10, 2013
Messages
2,258
Location
Jackson, WY
Nice!

Just one note on a 99--the front diff is pretty weak, and if you wheel any harder than forest roads, you'll definitely break it if you are not real careful. I have a diff from an 01 in mine as we blew it up on a hill climb a couple years ago. The only budget auto locker is lokka out of australia. Shipping takes a bit, but it is a solid product at a good price point.

Congrats!

for the record, I have done Moab twice and been all over Colorado in my 98 and front diff is fine. Just avoid wheel spin as much as possible.
 

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