New Member in Houston (1 Viewer)

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Okay things look good in the pics. Good on the gas and filter. The fuel pump sounds fine. And I believe the carb sight glass should be at the 1/2 mark while running and when shut off.

Are you running the engine with the air cleaner installed or removed in that video?

Strange that you pushed in the knob and it idled up, then a little more and it died. The engine sounded best when it hit that sweet spot on the knob.

I've gotta ask a question, don't take any offense to it. Have you adjust any settings on the carb? It should have come ready to run.

Next I'd look for vacuum leaks. Base of the carburetor, uncapped lines, etc. It has to be something simple!
 
Okay things look good in the pics. Good on the gas and filter. The fuel pump sounds fine. And I believe the carb sight glass should be at the 1/2 mark while running and when shut off.

Are you running the engine with the air cleaner installed or removed in that video?

Strange that you pushed in the knob and it idled up, then a little more and it died. The engine sounded best when it hit that sweet spot on the knob.

I've gotta ask a question, don't take any offense to it. Have you adjust any settings on the carb? It should have come ready to run.

Next I'd look for vacuum leaks. Base of the carburetor, uncapped lines, etc. It has to be something simple!

I haven't adjusted anything on the carb and yes that was running with the air filter off. I ran it today with the air filter on and it actually ran a lot better.

I should also point out something I forgot. When I first got the truck it would sometimes turn off when decelerating from highway speeds. Maybe these two things are related.

At the moment (as in as I type this) I'm rebuilding the front brakes and the knuckles as they were leaking pretty bad. I'm hoping I can't wrap them up tomorrow and take it for a test drive.

As for now I'll post this pic. It shows how heavy the grime was/is on the knuckle. This is on the driver's side. The passenger side is a little better.
 
I'm glad I decided to do this. My knuckles really needed re-building. I just have the driver's side taken apart right now. Besides putting this back together tomorrow I also plan on replacing the vacuum hoses as Klientime suggested.

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Hey mate, just read your whole post, excellent work, looking at your hubs reminds me of exactly how mine looked before I did them, make sure you be very careful replacing the axle seals or you will have exactly the same problem in a couple of months. I actually borrowed a mate Toyota special tool and they went in perfectly and no leaks.

Keep up the good work and post more pics:D

:cheers: Spudman
 
Thanks Spudman. Today was a bit slow. I had to run some errands and go by the office. I did get the parts I'm going to POR-15 on the driver's side all taken apart and cleaned up. I painted the new calipers and rotors with Rustoleum hi-temp primer and Duplicolor black caliper paint.

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Here is the knuckle all cleaned up. Big change.
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Taped up and ready to coat. I wanted to paint everything today but it started to rain and you're not supposed to apply POR-15 when the humidity is high.
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Your front end is gonna be cleaner than mine!

Looking good as always :)
 
I figured I would go ahead and post what I was doing tonight since the sun is down so I can't take any more photos.

I've got the front in parts hung up and the first coat of POR-15 slapped on right after I got home. I'm going to do one or two more coats of that and then top it with one or two of Chassis Coat. Then I've got some hooks set-up to let them hang up overnight in the garage so they can really cure up. On the agenda tomorrow is to hopefully get the driver's side rotor dust cover and brake caliper mounts cleaned up and coated. I'm having a hard time trying to decide of that should be POR-15 or caliper paint. Hopefully it's rolling this weekend so I can better diagnose my carb install. It may just need the cob webs completely blown out to get going good.

Ready to coat:


First coat:
 
Well I must not have prepped the surface correctly because the POR-15 I applied peeled right off of one of the parts. Not too big of a deal, I'll strip them off and try again. I'm somewhat tempted to just try some primer and then Rustoleum semi gloss hard hat spray paint. It just seems much easier and I've seen it used on a lot of other items with good results that lasted.

I'll think about it while I'm stripping the old stuff off I guess.
 
I didn't get to do too much this weekend. My wife is in the Air Force and she had a banquet at NASA on Saturday, and Sunday I had to work on an air compressor I bought. I'm going to hook I up and plumb lines throughout my shop and then enclose it in a weather proof sound deadening little box. I bought it at a government auction from the Army which is why it is OD green.

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Tomorrow I should have some photos of the tank, fan shroud, and belt wheels all painted. It should provide plenty of air to run grinders, pneumatic guns, and anything else all at the same time.

Everything is all painted and now I'm just waiting on some fasteners to put it all back together on both the drivers side hub and brakes and the air compressor.
 
Well tomorrow I'm headed to Austin to pick these front and rear bumpers up. I haven't seen them in person yet but I think I may do a few small modifications to them. Mainly some shackle mounts are on the agenda right now. I've got some that came off of a HMMWV and I'm hoping those fit. Also I have a rear tire swing "axle" I'd like to install as well as one of those clamps to keep the tire carrier closed. I'll post some photos once I get them here.

https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/60...ar-bumper-with-swing-out.801898/#post-9158048
 
I picked up the bumpers today. I went ahead and bought a factory four speed with the add on overdrive from Jason at Cruiser Yard. I'm looking forward to getting it installed and having all these gears to choose from!

 
Sorry I've been AWOL. I broke my finger at work and it has put a serious hamper on working on the FJ60. I've mostly been cleaning up parts and painting as time and my ability permit. I noticed I've got a pretty serious oil leak a while back that is either coming from the rear main seal or the oil pan. I have to take the transmission out anyhow and I've got most of the front axle out so I was thinking why not change the oil pan gasket now as well as the rear main seal when I change out the transmission? Am I biting off more than I can chew?

Broken finger:
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The tie rod end on the passenger side would not come off at all and I broke a cheap Harbor Freight tie rod separator trying to get it loose.
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The cutoff wheel got it loose.
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I figured it would be best to go ahead and order new tie rod ends. I went ahead and got them cleaned up and painted.
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Knuckle and some other parts cleaned up and ready for paint.
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I also noticed this damage to my front passenger spring hanger. I might as well go ahead and get that OME kit and replace it right?
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I haven't been using POR15 and instead switched to some industrial Sherwin Williams enamel. The semi-gloss black is turning out really nice and smooth even though I'm brushing it on. I plan on spraying it on later but right now I don't have an air compressor as I'm still trying to get mine rebuilt.
 
So I got the front axle out, I figured I might as well clean it up. I am going to move forward with a lift kit so I want to go ahead and take off the leaf springs. I got the front pins out however the back are being incredibly hard. I took the nut off and also the little screw a little above of that. I've hit the bolt a lot and it's not budging. Do they just get stuck and need heat and penetrating fluid or is there a trick to these?

Axle out:
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By the way, I got an AC unit for the garage. It should make working on the Land Cruiser in the summer time much nicer.
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Well it's been a while. I was in North Dakota and then West Texas and then back to North Dakota. I did order my deluxe OME suspension kit though and I should have everything but the front u-bolts here next week. Also I've sent my bumpers off to get sandblasted and painted and I have everything ready to put my new transmission in with the Fairey overdrive.

I have a question on my front leaf springs. As with many others the rear pins on my front springs aren't budging no matter what I do. Since the stock front leaf springs are flat as can be I was planning on just scrapping them and my kit comes with new shackles can I just take a cut off wheel to the old pins? I assume this would be ok but I wanted to make sure I wouldn't cut up something that I actually needed later on. Since I don't actually have the kit here yet I can't lay everything out and see the parts but I wanted to have it ready when it gets here.
 
Well it's been a while. I was in North Dakota and then West Texas and then back to North Dakota. I did order my deluxe OME suspension kit though and I should have everything but the front u-bolts here next week. Also I've sent my bumpers off to get sandblasted and painted and I have everything ready to put my new transmission in with the Fairey overdrive.

I have a question on my front leaf springs. As with many others the rear pins on my front springs aren't budging no matter what I do. Since the stock front leaf springs are flat as can be I was planning on just scrapping them and my kit comes with new shackles can I just take a cut off wheel to the old pins? I assume this would be ok but I wanted to make sure I wouldn't cut up something that I actually needed later on. Since I don't actually have the kit here yet I can't lay everything out and see the parts but I wanted to have it ready when it gets here.


Did you try an air hammer? Worked like a charm on mine... best of luck.
 
New updates! Klinetime574 came over and we figured out my Fairey Overdrive, which was somewhat of a challenge. Without his help I would have been way lost. The issue I had is that my truck is a 1984 and the transmission I got from Cruiser Yard came out of a 1986 so it had the spacer and all of my mounts and driveshafts wouldn't fit. Alex walked me through dissembling my transfer case off of my 1984 and then we set that aside and started on the unit with the Fairey Overdrive. As soon as we pulled off the inspection plate we found damage of an exploded bearing. We dug into it and our suspicions were confirmed when we got the case off and found an exploded bearing.



Luckily it didn't damage the case or really much besides the bearing's race surface. It really disintegrated though and we pretty much only had metal shavings left.



As it turns out the transfer case out of the 1986 truck with the Fairey and my 1984 used the same size idler shaft and everything else matched up. Since the Fairey replaces the back half of the transfer case we just used the front half of the transfer case and my transmission since we knew they were in good working order. As we started cleaning up the gears and case of the Fairey we realized it was going to have to come completely apart and so we just wound up disassembling it down to it's basic pieces. Everything looked good so we went through the manual and assembled the Fairey from scratch.

Front case reattached and ready to start assembling the Fairey Overdrive gears:


Fairey Overdrive gears when we pulled them out of the case:


Output shafts and gears from the two transfer cases side by side.


All gears and bearings assembled (this took some brain power but we got it!):






Case installed! We got this done around 10:30 PM so Alex got me to a point where I could take it from there and we went and got some late night grub:




If anyone ever needs help with a Fairey Klinetime574 and I are pretty well skilled at them now. They aren't really that difficult and seem pretty robust. It should be a lot of fun to get going once I finish putting it in and getting my Ole Man Emu kit installed. I'll keep updating as things progress.
 
Sorry to just see this post @Niferous . It was fun working on that with you. The Fairey OD is an interesting thing. I'll be interested to see how it performs.

I'm pretty busy for the next few weekends, but I'll keep in touch. We need to get that 60 running! :steer:
 
No worries on not seeing it. I honestly need to get this thread more active. I think I'm going to go ahead and do the rear main seal on the truck and the oil pan while everything is out of the way. I remember now that the last time I drove it their was oil leaking at the rear of the motor on to the ground. With the front axle off, transmission out, and Toyota gaskets in my garage there is just no better time to do it.

Once those are done and I've got the transmission in I will probably move on to installing my OME kit. After that a few very minor things would need to be in order to have it inspected and running.
 
No worries on not seeing it. I honestly need to get this thread more active. I think I'm going to go ahead and do the rear main seal on the truck and the oil pan while everything is out of the way. I remember now that the last time I drove it their was oil leaking at the rear of the motor on to the ground. With the front axle off, transmission out, and Toyota gaskets in my garage there is just no better time to do it.

Once those are done and I've got the transmission in I will probably move on to installing my OME kit. After that a few very minor things would need to be in order to have it inspected and running.

Another thing to check is the welch plug that is behind the bellhousing on the driver side of the block. It is only 1/2" - 3/4" in diameter, but will leak with the engine running. I had a steady drip from mine after the shop replaced it because they installed the plug wrong. I bring this up because you said your engine had been worked on when it was the PO's.

You will see this plug after you remove the pressure plate, clutch disc, flywheel and then the bellhousing. I would recommend taking the bellhousing off even though you don't have to when installing a rear main seal just so you can check this welch plug. Search my name and welch plug on this forum and you'll find my posts.
 

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