New Member in Houston (1 Viewer)

[Niferous]

I've been fighting a case of strep or something all weekend so I haven't been able to get a lot of work done this weekend. I got the caps off and the back bumper had a lot of rust in it.

The front was a little better.

I'm going to get them acid dipped and then check them out and see what all needs to be done to make them solid. I'm also working up some kind of tire carrier. After that I'll probably have them galvanized and then spray in bed linered. I get a lot of coating done for work so it should be cheap.

The other thing I did was work some more on the interior. I got the front seat all bolted in as well as the shifter.

Like I said, not too much work, but I've felt horrible for the last three days.

 

[90FJ]

That is a pretty bold statement to make without any justification. I can't imagine they would be worse than what I have now which is nothing.

sorry man, just saw this. didn't know you had already bought them.

generally they are considered flimsy and cheap, you'll note that no one here runs them. I would look at some other options before you spend a bunch of money having them dipped, painted or adding a tire carrier. They are very light duty and more of an aesthetic accessory even though they look like crap. I did see a guy cut one down that looked "ok".

but all that is just like, my opinion. to each their own.

 

[Niferous]

Well I don't have anything right now and getting them dipped really won't cost me much at all. I have a lot of stuff hot dipped galvanized for work so I could just throw these in and they'd be done with the batch. I think right now I'm paying something like $.20 a pound.

Worst case scenario is I will get them back, bondo the one hole where it rusted through, and then hit them with some semi-gloss black paint. They'll work until I can do something better.

 

[Niferous]

I wanted to update this as I've been working on the truck lately. I know the truck needed a new battery so I took the old one out and got a new one. The battery tray is absolutely toast so I ordered a new one from stainlesstrays.com and hopefully they'll ship quickly.

Here is the old tray, the part of the tray closest to the front clip was rusted to the point that I could give it a light tap with a hammer and knock a hole in it.

I think I'm going to paint the new tray black as I just don't like the idea of a silver tray, just seems odd.

Anyhow I also noticed that I have to plugs that aren't connected to anything behind the battery, somewhat concealed in the fender. Does anyone have an idea of what these are for or if I need them?

 

[klinetime574]

I've got the same connectors in that area. One of those sorta looks like the sidemarker connector, but I'm sure you have that plugged in.

I'll be anxious to see what the stainless tray looks like!

 

[Niferous]

If you mean the side marker that is just behind the headlight bezel than no it is not connected. Their isn't even a place to plug it in. The orange reflector is there, but nothing is behind it.

I got the tray today and hooked it up right away. It seems to be very well made but I'm afraid my battery isn't wide or tall enough. It wobbles a little bit in the mount. Does anyone have any idea what the connector type plugs are for on the positive line? I've never seen a car that has these and one of them looks like it's been over heated and melted at one time. I had some issues when the truck was running where it would suddenly shut off as if the battery died. I'm kind of wondering if maybe there is a shoddy connection in there. It's the two white and gray connectors that are towards the top of the first photo. They are right off the main positive line.

Anyway, here are the photos:

 

[klinetime574]

There should be side marker lights on each fender. And next to the headlights there are corner lights. The side markers are wedge base bulbs (194) and the corner lights are socketed bulbs. I believe the original number is an 87. 1156 fits in them. IIRC.

As far as the battery positive lead. The two connectors with three wires between them is the "fusible link." YES if one of them is melted that would cause running issues. Fix them before you're left stranded somewhere.

What group size is that battery? I've got a 34 in mine and it's way short and way narrow. I believe the original group is a 27. It's huge! I can tell yours isn't a 27.

I need to find some time to come visit. I wish I had more time. A lot of people I haven't connected with. I'm just so busy all the time!

 

[TRAIL TAILOR]

There should be side marker lights on each fender. And next to the headlights there are corner lights. The side markers are wedge base bulbs (194) and the corner lights are socketed bulbs. I believe the original number is an 87. 1156 fits in them. IIRC.

As far as the battery positive lead. The two connectors with three wires between them is the "fusible link." YES if one of them is melted that would cause running issues. Fix them before you're left stranded somewhere.

What group size is that battery? I've got a 34 in mine and it's way short and way narrow. I believe the original group is a 27. It's huge! I can tell yours isn't a 27.

I need to find some time to come visit. I wish I had more time. A lot of people I haven't connected with. I'm just so busy all the time!

I ran 65 group batteries in my last cruiser. Shorter, but same width, for another option.

J

 

[Niferous]

I ordered a Trollhole carburetor this morning. I will try to find a thread on how to install one and get everything prepped so that when it gets here I can just install it. Are you guys that have one just running regular grade fuel with one?

 

[klinetime574]

Hey man.

I sent you a message just a few minutes ago. Wanted to chime in here too.

Regular gas is plenty for our 2F's. Just make sure to have a clean fuel filter, good fuel pump, and that's it. As long as it runs you're good.

Besides, I've always heard the saying: "It could run on Tijuana ditch water."

 

[Niferous]

Just a quick note before heading to bed. My Trollhole carburator came in while I was out of town and I got it about 90% installed tonight. Does anyone make a smaller air filter I can out on this thing? The factory one uses up is much space.

Old:

New:

I also decided to change the oil and noticed the pan is leaking pretty bad. Any good threads on changing that?r

 

[Niferous]

I got everything installed and got the FJ60 cranked up tonight. I didn't run it long at all because I'm still working on getting the rear heater box re-installed. Right now the hoses for it are plugged. I will post a video tomorrow of it running as tonight it was dark and the Mosquitos were getting bad.

At first it was hard starting but after a few cranks it fired off. It seemed to run smooth and when I pushed in the choke it died but it was only running for maybe five to ten seconds.

Does anyone know where I can get the rubber grommets that the two pieces of copper tubing fit through on the rear heater? The ones on the floor under the passenger seat. I only have one and want to make sure that is sealed up. Are they just something I can find at an auto part or hardware store? I'm calling them grommets but may be referring to them incorrectly. Any help is needed so that I can test drive this thing!

 

[klinetime574]

Good work!

Like I've said before the factory air cleaner really is the best option for our motors. Enclosed element, makes proper hose routing easy (PCV, distributor vent, vacuum advance, etc.), and you don't have to buy ridiculous air filters for it.

I'm not sure about the grommets as you're calling them. Never messed with that rear heater before.

 

[HoustonFJ62]

Hello fellow Houstonian LC owner. I just replaced the side marker lights in my '89 FJ62 and they connected to the rectangular connector on the right side of your picture (i believe the other connector is left as is). The side marker lenses were on the truck, but the seals had degraded and I found the bulbs inside the fender and the original bulb holders crumbling to dust. Picked up a set from cruiser parts. I just finished my OME suspension and would recommend getting a set of greaseable hanger pins. Of course they weren't included in the kit, so I had to order them with the truck up on jacks. To remove the original hanger pins, I had to heat them until red hot and let the old pins burn away from the bushings! Once I got them off, they were so corroded that they were unusable...just my two cents. BTW, I just noticed that the Houston tlca is meeting in Memorial Park on April 13th for a BBQ...never been, but gonna give it a try.

 

[Niferous]

Hello fellow Houstonian LC owner. I just replaced the side marker lights in my '89 FJ62 and they connected to the rectangular connector on the right side of your picture (i believe the other connector is left as is). The side marker lenses were on the truck, but the seals had degraded and I found the bulbs inside the fender and the original bulb holders crumbling to dust. Picked up a set from cruiser parts. I just finished my OME suspension and would recommend getting a set of greaseable hanger pins. Of course they weren't included in the kit, so I had to order them with the truck up on jacks. To remove the original hanger pins, I had to heat them until red hot and let the old pins burn away from the bushings! Once I got them off, they were so corroded that they were unusable...just my two cents. BTW, I just noticed that the Houston tlca is meeting in Memorial Park on April 13th for a BBQ...never been, but gonna give it a try.

I'd like to go to the meeting but I'm not for sure if I'll have it up and running AND driving by then. The brake calipers are leaking pretty dang bad so I need to address that but I'm thinking it shouldn't take more than a Saturday to get that done. I'm hoping I can find the little rubber plugs I need tonight at a hardware store so that I can get the rear heater box back in and the heater hoses all hooked up.

If those two things can happen I think I can make the meeting in my FJ60.

Here is the video of the truck starting up:

 

[Niferous]

Well I took the rear heater all apart, cleaned out the inside guts and coils, then I rebuilt and reconditioned it. It was amazing how many little rocks were all inside this thing. Also it had a few areas that were starting to rust pretty good so I was happy I took care of those.

Disassembled and painted:


The coils all cleaned up:


The valve and control mechanism. I just cleaned this up and coated it with some Liquid Wrench:


Installed. I'm replacing fasteners as I go with stainless hardware where I can. In areas where strength is critical I'm looking at using some zinc plated and then coated fasteners. I should be able to get the stainless ones for this at work tomorrow.



Also I started it up again tonight and let it run for about five minutes. One thing I noticed is that I still have to fully choke and pump the pedal a time or two to get the it started. It also takes a few cranks to get started. Once I get it running it will idle with the choke pulled about halfway out but if I push it all the way in the truck shuts off. I'm doing the front brakes so I haven't driven it yet but does this seem normal? Remember the truck hasn't been run in a long time.

 

[Niferous]

Any help on the idle? Should I be able to just let the truck warm up for five or so minutes and push in the choke without it killing the motor?

 

[klinetime574]

I wouldn't put a precise time value on it. Are you able to push it in little by little without it dying?

I'd verify the operation of the choke. Knob on the dash pulled = choke flap closed. Knob on the dash pushed in = choke flap open.

Honestly I want to say you shouldn't need a choke at all. Don't panic though, it's probably just something simple.

How old is the gas? Is the fuel filter clean? Does the fuel pump show any signs of leaking? (Gas comes out of the weep hole, just feel the bottom of it)

You must be getting air, and if the choke is working correctly you're exposing more air to the fuel, and it is dying.

With the engine running (choke pulled) can you verify the amount of gas in the sight glass? Should be at the 1/2 mark.

 

[Niferous]

I drained the old gas and replaced it with brand new fuel and also added some Lucas fuel conditioner. The fuel filter was also replaced with a new one. I'll check the flap before I head to bed and also the fuel pump. I assume the truck has to be running to check the fuel pump weep hole?

 

[Niferous]

Ok, I started it up tonight and made some observations as well as testing some of the things klinetime was talking about. The fuel pump was very dry and I couldn't detect any fuel at all. The little glass gauge showed about half way full when the truck was running.

This is the carb with the choke pushed all the way in:

Here it is pulled all the way out:

Here is the choke at the position where it dies:

It doesn't seem to want to start unless I pull the choke all the way out. However when I start it up the engine seems to be running very rough. A few clicks in and the truck seems to be idling just right. Then when I hit the throttle a little bit it dies.

I figure if a picture is worth a thousand words a video is worth a million. Here it is from start-up to when it dies.


I should add that the engine seemed to idle up when I pushed the choke in. Than it smoothed out when I pushed it one click in. Then when I tap the accelerator twice it died.