Thanks, Geezer! Yeah, I had the same thought about the bezel earlier today as I was taking pictures.Welcome to the madness. Yep, you got plenty of rust in ALL the right places. Under hood looks really intact. At least the bezel police can't bust your chops since you don't have one!
Thanks, Middlecalf- great advice and a keen eye. I have added that item to the list. Thank you!First, welcome. Second, I hope there was a fly rod nearby in that pic on the south fork . Lastly, yeah there’s some work needed on that rig, get mechanicals fixed first then do body stuff as needed (floors for sure). Not sure what’s up with this body frame mount, there should be two rivets holding it in place.
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2 colors- rust and cancer... LOL! Thanks Cruiser. More great advice- this is what I’m looking for. I think there are a couple of leaks I need to take care of in addition to the items you addressed. I had it parked on the concrete driveway for one day and then noticed the drips underneath it. This is why in the pictures it’s parked out in the field. Hoping to get it into my neighbors shop soon for the bigger items. Thanks again!Wow! That is a pretty classic rig you have. 2 colors, rust and “cancer” in all the regular spots. Lol. But wow if it doesn’t look just about complete!! I echo the above statement. Get it running and enjoy it! Breaks, and a tune up. Change the fluids! All of them! Then enjoy it and tinker when you can. A citrus stripper will take off the red paint. That will save you a ton on repainting, but will cost time and elbow grease. The rust spots can be fixed by using patches welded in. That will save you having to buy whole quarter panels and a sill (unless you want to..) I would eventually get a replacement drivers floor though.. but that’s about it it looks like. Oh and use fluid film or something to stop the surface rust underneath. There are some good treads on here for rust prevention. Have fun! Welcome!!!!!
Thanks, Stripe. Maybe I didn’t articulate my position regarding my intentions with this 40. When I said I didn’t have $15k or whatever the amount I used in my example, I meant like write a $15k check today. I know that eventually I will probably need to sink at least that much into it. I was mentally referencing some of the builds I have read about on this site. They buy it on day and two weeks later, it’s almost complete.To me it sounds like your budget is very limited which is fine. It also sounds like you don't want to spend a lot of time on it. Unfortunately those two restrictions won't work together. If you don't want to spend a lot of money, it will take a ton of time. I would get it running decent and get it stopping. Then I would sell it and get something that is closer in condition that you want a rig to be. Personally I think that needs a new complete tub. You could patch it a little and do the bare minimum but even that will take a lot of time and the cruiser won't look that great. If you get that running and stopping you could probably sell it for around 6k or so and then buy a nicer rig for 15 to 20k.
Great information here, Matt. Thank you!!! Exactly what I was looking for. It’s gonna take time and money and I know I’ll get it there with the help of everyone here. I was on the Rising Sun web site last night but didn’t get to the message board part. I’m going to check it out again tonight.I this rig! Excellent find!
So much good here, mostly complete, but yes some rust, but nothing that wouldn't stop you from driving it!
First off, we like to call them 40s around here, not FJs. FJ is what FJ Cruiser people call the FJ Cruiser, which is not a 40
Looks like oil leaks abound. Easy ones to tackle are to snug up the oil pan bolts and side cover bolts by the distributor (just snug, it is a cork gasket holding that together). Also check the valve cover for snugness. If that doesn't slow or stop the leaks then further diving in will be required. Front main seal, rear main seal, depending on where the leak is coming from. The back of the transfer case where the parking brake is is also a common spot for leaking, and will soak the parking brake pads so they won't work. Requires a few parts including a parking brake rebuild kit and removing the rear driveshaft. Steering box looks leaky, can pump some grease into it and run it with that until you feel like tackling a reseal on the steering box.
Front steering knuckles don't look too leaky, but while you're changing the fluids you will want to remove the square plug on top of the steering knuckle and stick a zip tie in there to make sure it has grease in it about 2/3-3/4 full. If it starts leaking or is already leaking then a front axle rebuild is in your future.
Join Rising Sun and get a parts discount at your closest local dealer, Groove Toyota on Broadway. It's amazing how much is still available OEM from Toyota, so don't be afraid to check. Things like the cooling system hoses and clamps are available, also fan belts, suggest also an OEM oil filter and air filter, maybe even brake hoses and stuff are available.
Just start with the basic tuneup stuff to get acquainted - oil and filter change, spark plugs, cap, rotor, air filter, coolant, points (can't remember if '78 has points still), and gear oil for front diff, transmission, transfer case, and rear diff.
Buy a Haynes manual, they are not that expensive and are pretty good. You can worry about a factory service manual (FSM) later if you feel the need to have the additional info.
Make sure it runs, check the timing and adjust the valves. Then make sure it stops so pull off the wheels and check the brakes front and rear, flush the brake fluid and clutch fluid and probably replace the hoses.
Grease the driveshafts and steering shafts and drive it around a bit.
Make sure the safety bits work like electrical, mirrors, windshield washer, etc.
Then you can decide what to do with it. Buy new tires if you're going to drive it around much. You don't have to jump into full restoration right away. It won't rust out from under you as long as you keep it out of the salted roads until you've had a chance to address some things.
Cruiser Outfitters @cruiseroutfit has rebuild kits for a lot of the stuff you will want/need, and is a great vendor. For more obscure things Specter Off-Road usually can dig up whatever you need, but a little more pricey and shipping gets expensive. Closer to home you have Classic Cruisers in Salida, you can give them a call for used parts. Redline Land Cruisers east of Colorado Springs can do a lot of the heavy lifting related to body work etc. - might take a door to them or something first and see how they do and how much they cost, and they may be able to piecemeal some other body patches as needed.
I'd probably consider an OEM battery hold down personally.
Douglas County is an emissions county so you will have to get that sorted. Looks like everything is there so hopefully it all just works.
Thank you! I’m checking out CL and online forums such as Mud. Lots of parts available from many $ource$. My wife would kill me if I dragged another one home...Welcome Scott !!
i see nobody hasn't told you yet
Good luck with the first 40 !!, more 40's will follow soon specially if you are going to look for the parts you need with this one