New Member / '86 4x4 Pickup EFI Wiring Help Needed (1 Viewer)

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May 15, 2018
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Location
Colorado
Hi All; New member here from Colorado. Thanks for all of the good reading over the years!

Currently own/working these trucks: '11 4runner, '86 4x4 EFI pickup, and an '86 2wd 22r pickup.

I'm hoping someone can help me with some wiring issues I'm working through on my '86 EFI. I picked this truck up not too long ago and it has a whole slew of funky wiring mods/issues. I'm slowly trying to revert things back to factory wiring and I'll just say that I'm better at rebuilding a carb than tracing electrical problems. I'm learning, but still fairy novice on electrical. Basically, I'm a hobbyist, not a professional. With that in mind....

(1) My biggest issue and main reason I'm seeking help: constant power to fuel pump when the battery is connected. One of the previous owners had the fuel pump wired through an on-off switch, I assume because they couldn't find a short or something, but the switch was left on and pump failed. Due to pump being dead (I bought this as a non-running truck), I've replaced the tank, fuel pump, filter, float, etc. It now fires right up and runs nicely (yay). But that's not my issue. I bypassed that on/off switch as a step one to find out what's up with the constant power issue. The bypassing of the switch only made it so that 100% of the time the pump has power and currently no ability to turn it off minus disconnecting the battery (no surprise). The power wire that come from fuel pump, goes to some wiring that's right by the cab fuse box (see picture--looks like factory wiring to me). That connector that has 2 wires: blk/wht--wht/blk and you can see in the pic that the non-factory wire (red) is spliced with the blk/white wire. I cannot find what these wires are in the FSM wiring diagram. Could be maybe something that was intended for a light or something? I'm thinking that finding out what those wires are (pictured) will lead to my next step. Should I cut the jumper, non-factory, wire out and then try to troubleshoot?

I've checked out the circuit opening relay and main EFI relay. Those seem to be good.

A couple other note-worthy points (in case these could be related to my pump issue):
-Horn/hazard light fuse burns immediately when battery connected.
-No other fuses get burnt immediately with power.
-The wires that go to the back of the "flasher" relay were cut off. Luckily the cut wires and connector were left in the glove box. I think this is likely culprit for causing fuse to burn.
-No parking brake switch is in place.

Well, hoping for some ideas so I can progress in my trouble-shooting. I've attached a photo to show what I'm looking at. I'd be much appreciate of any/all advice!
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The first thing to check is the air flow vane meter. The 22Re needs to see air flowing through the AF to turn on the pump relay. My 86 4runner was bought not running because the PO didn't hook up the air tube after a head gasket job. Push the vane open with your finger while touching the circuiit opening relay (key on) and you should feel the relay click.
If it doesn't then I'd start running the pins on the relay with a test light.

You have two black wires that come into the relay that should both be 12v power. One is the 12v power for cranking and is hot when the key is on start. The other is hot when the key is on On and the EFI main relay is closed.
The green wire is the grounding side of the relay coil. It goes to the air flow meter. It should ground when you push open the flap. There is also a fuel pump check connector you can jumper and it should bypass the air flow meter right to ground. Two wire connector with green and black/white wires. I think it's over by the air box kinda plugged into the fender well.
Light blue is power out to the fuel pump. If you have power here when the relay is hooked up and energized, then your problem is between the relay and your new pump. Or the pump to ground.
The last wire is white black which is ground. This is the ground for the coil on the cranking side.
 
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