New member - 2009 LX570 (1 Viewer)

[Ed3k]

Greetings all, Ed here. Have been lurking a while, and recently purchased a 2009 LX570 with 150k miles in MD.

I'm the third owner. Frame was light on rust compared to similar mileage models (incl. LC200, Sequoia) in area, having it spent most of its time in the South, and price was good. My 2000 4Runner idler pulley disintegrated at 150k, so this became the DD while I overhaul that.

The first owner, for 100k miles, seemed to bring it to the Lexus dealer for every little issue . The second owner, for the next 50k miles, seemed to do oil changes at Walmart, but I didn't see much evidence of maintenance other than that and most things still working .

If interested, here's where I'm at:

Had to replace front struts to pass inspection (one was leaking). Tires / wheels, oil, coolant, serp belt / tensioner / pulley / water pump / bracket done so far.

Next:
- Diff fluids
- Also have the new starter on hand for if it goes (current one is original). Saw Car Care Nut's video (Youtube) on that, so dreading it a bit.
- I can now see I should've done the radiator too while in there - have the original one with the larger "bump"
- Brakes -- Traffic can be abysmal here and we haul a big family, so trying to decide between 1) OEM, 2) Tundra upgrade w/ Tundra lines, or 3) 16+ upgrade by expanding caliper bolt hole in steering knuckle.

Current Troubleshooting:
- Front Braking -- Believe a front caliper is sticking or have a wheel bearing issue (have cycled ABS) - pulls to right when braking hard.
- Wipers -- Has an aftermarket windshield and the auto-rain-sense wiper settings don't seem to work when moving. So I have only two wiper speeds: maximum, and next-to-maximum.
- Radio -- Head unit restarts quickly every 10-20 min or so. Seems to do it over road bumps more often. Took amp out from under seat and cleaned dust out internally, cleaned a little corrosion off one connection, checked fans, and loosened up the carpet over the amp by cutting it for better airflow. It made the radio restart go faster, but didn't prevent it from restarting periodically altogether.

Grateful for everyone that contributes to IH8MUD!

 

[mahoolaha]

Greetings all, Ed here. Have been lurking a while, and recently purchased a 2009 LX570 with 150k miles in MD.

I'm the third owner. Frame was light on rust compared to similar mileage models (incl. LC200, Sequoia) in area, having it spent most of its time in the South, and price was good. My 2000 4Runner idler pulley disintegrated at 150k, so this became the DD while I overhaul that.

The first owner, for 100k miles, seemed to bring it to the Lexus dealer for every little issue . The second owner, for the next 50k miles, seemed to do oil changes at Walmart, but I didn't see much evidence of maintenance other than that and most things still working .

View attachment 3363910

If interested, here's where I'm at:

Had to replace front struts to pass inspection (one was leaking). Tires / wheels, oil, coolant, serp belt / tensioner / pulley / water pump / bracket done so far.

Next:
- Diff fluids
- Also have the new starter on hand for if it goes (current one is original). Saw Car Care Nut's video (Youtube) on that, so dreading it a bit.
- I can now see I should've done the radiator too while in there - have the original one with the larger "bump"
- Brakes -- Traffic can be abysmal here and we haul a big family, so trying to decide between 1) OEM, 2) Tundra upgrade w/ Tundra lines, or 3) 16+ upgrade by expanding caliper bolt hole in steering knuckle.

Current Troubleshooting:
- Front Braking -- Believe a front caliper is sticking or have a wheel bearing issue (have cycled ABS) - pulls to right when braking hard.
- Wipers -- Has an aftermarket windshield and the auto-rain-sense wiper settings don't seem to work when moving. So I have only two wiper speeds: maximum, and next-to-maximum.
- Radio -- Head unit restarts quickly every 10-20 min or so. Seems to do it over road bumps more often. Took amp out from under seat and cleaned dust out internally, cleaned a little corrosion off one connection, checked fans, and loosened up the carpet over the amp by cutting it for better airflow. It made the radio restart go faster, but didn't prevent it from restarting periodically altogether.

Grateful for everyone that contributes to IH8MUD!

Love that color. Welcome to the club.

 

[Sandroad]

I like that color too. Good to have you on Mud. The first 200 series I checked out was just like yours, owned by a Mud member. I remember feeling very envious about how nice a vehicle it was. With an aftermarket windshield, an electrical gremlin, and at least one corroded connector, spend some time checking for moisture under the door sill trim at the A pillar both left and right sides. You may find some and more corrosion? Brake pull is very likely a stuck piston. IMHO, don’t sweat the decision, just go OEM and get the brakes fixed right away. They are pretty important. And with Walmart service, you might want to see if the fresh/recirc is working on the HVAC. That’s going to be a great fun truck.

 

[Ratchey]

To semi fix your wipers so you have variable speed, go into the black plastic cover to the right of the mirror and unplug the harness (it connects the wiper sensor to the gel pad on the windshield) To properly fix it, you likely need to replace the gel pad.
Also look for pink stains on the front of the tranny coming down from the top of the engine. Probably have a valley plate cooling leak if it was never repaired.

 

[FxFormat]

If your calipers are sticking, this is a good excuse to just overhaul the entire thing and upgrade to tundra calipers and rotors. I’ve done it and is very happy with it. Are you able to do the work yourself?

 

[a200]

That's a big upgrade from a third gen 4runner. The oem brakes should be much better than the 4runner in stock form. Very nice color.

 

[Ed3k]

I like that color too. Good to have you on Mud. The first 200 series I checked out was just like yours, owned by a Mud member. I remember feeling very envious about how nice a vehicle it was. With an aftermarket windshield, an electrical gremlin, and at least one corroded connector, spend some time checking for moisture under the door sill trim at the A pillar both left and right sides. You may find some and more corrosion? Brake pull is very likely a stuck piston. IMHO, don’t sweat the decision, just go OEM and get the brakes fixed right away. They are pretty important. And with Walmart service, you might want to see if the fresh/recirc is working on the HVAC. That’s going to be a great fun truck.

Thanks! And that's a great idea. I checked under the lower driver's door sill when I did the amp but didn't see corrosion. I know there are some connections in the upper sill trim on either side of the windshield at the A pillar, do you happen to know if it'd okay to check there (due to SRS airbags)? The recirc door appears to work fine, it moves and no noises, we'll see if it won't defog in winter I guess.

To semi fix your wipers so you have variable speed, go into the black plastic cover to the right of the mirror and unplug the harness (it connects the wiper sensor to the gel pad on the windshield) To properly fix it, you likely need to replace the gel pad.
Also look for pink stains on the front of the tranny coming down from the top of the engine. Probably have a valley plate cooling leak if it was never repaired.

Thank you! Hopefully unplugging works, prefer just picking the wiper speed. I just checked and didn't seen any pink or white stains. I have what looks like an old mild oil leak or spill, nothing crazy or wet. My coolant is a little lower than it should be, but I figured it was letting the air out since I just changed it, and I don't smell any. Will refill and keep an eye.

If your calipers are sticking, this is a good excuse to just overhaul the entire thing and upgrade to tundra calipers and rotors. I’ve done it and is very happy with it. Are you able to do the work yourself?

I agree if they need to come off anyway, might as well put in bigger calipers and replace hubs. OE would be quicker. Did you notice a big difference?

I should have time to do the work in a month or so, the pads and rotors have life left for now. I've never done calipers, and haven't done brakes since 2014 - so it'll be a journey. The 16+ mod (expanding the steering knuckle bolt hole) looked simpler than replacing w/ Tundra lines and ABS sensor bracket, but I'm hesitant to just reduce the steel on that in favor of a bigger bolt, and if I screw up those are expensive.

 

[LX Cruiser]

There is a huge difference after a brake upgrade. I put brakes from a 2017 Tundra (all OEM parts) on the front of my LX, and it is night and day. We stop with authority now.

Welcome to the forum. I dig the red!

 

[FxFormat]

Thanks! And that's a great idea. I checked under the lower driver's door sill when I did the amp but didn't see corrosion. I know there are some connections in the upper sill trim on either side of the windshield at the A pillar, do you happen to know if it'd okay to check there (due to SRS airbags)? The recirc door appears to work fine, it moves and no noises, we'll see if it won't defog in winter I guess.


Thank you! Hopefully unplugging works, prefer just picking the wiper speed. I just checked and didn't seen any pink or white stains. I have what looks like an old mild oil leak or spill, nothing crazy or wet. My coolant is a little lower than it should be, but I figured it was letting the air out since I just changed it, and I don't smell any. Will refill and keep an eye.


I agree if they need to come off anyway, might as well put in bigger calipers and replace hubs. OE would be quicker. Did you notice a big difference?

I should have time to do the work in a month or so, the pads and rotors have life left for now. I've never done calipers, and haven't done brakes since 2014 - so it'll be a journey. The 16+ mod (expanding the steering knuckle bolt hole) looked simpler than replacing w/ Tundra lines and ABS sensor bracket, but I'm hesitant to just reduce the steel on that in favor of a bigger bolt, and if I screw up those are expensive.

Yes , even though the difference in rotor size is small, the tundra calipers are spaced out farther increasing they grabbing leverage. Pedal feels better too as it grabs sooner for me. I used all oem parts. Think of a CD disc spinning, if you grab it towards the center of the Cd it’ll require more force to stop it than grabbing at the outer edge

 

[LXCruiser570]

Greetings all, Ed here. Have been lurking a while, and recently purchased a 2009 LX570 with 150k miles in MD.

I'm the third owner. Frame was light on rust compared to similar mileage models (incl. LC200, Sequoia) in area, having it spent most of its time in the South, and price was good. My 2000 4Runner idler pulley disintegrated at 150k, so this became the DD while I overhaul that.

The first owner, for 100k miles, seemed to bring it to the Lexus dealer for every little issue . The second owner, for the next 50k miles, seemed to do oil changes at Walmart, but I didn't see much evidence of maintenance other than that and most things still working .

View attachment 3363910

If interested, here's where I'm at:

Had to replace front struts to pass inspection (one was leaking). Tires / wheels, oil, coolant, serp belt / tensioner / pulley / water pump / bracket done so far.

Next:
- Diff fluids
- Also have the new starter on hand for if it goes (current one is original). Saw Car Care Nut's video (Youtube) on that, so dreading it a bit.
- I can now see I should've done the radiator too while in there - have the original one with the larger "bump"
- Brakes -- Traffic can be abysmal here and we haul a big family, so trying to decide between 1) OEM, 2) Tundra upgrade w/ Tundra lines, or 3) 16+ upgrade by expanding caliper bolt hole in steering knuckle.

Current Troubleshooting:
- Front Braking -- Believe a front caliper is sticking or have a wheel bearing issue (have cycled ABS) - pulls to right when braking hard.
- Wipers -- Has an aftermarket windshield and the auto-rain-sense wiper settings don't seem to work when moving. So I have only two wiper speeds: maximum, and next-to-maximum.
- Radio -- Head unit restarts quickly every 10-20 min or so. Seems to do it over road bumps more often. Took amp out from under seat and cleaned dust out internally, cleaned a little corrosion off one connection, checked fans, and loosened up the carpet over the amp by cutting it for better airflow. It made the radio restart go faster, but didn't prevent it from restarting periodically altogether.

Grateful for everyone that contributes to IH8MUD!

Ed3k,

I agree with others. Great color! I have the same rig. 2009 LX570. I also had the same radio issue. It's been a mystery since the beginning. Just reviewed my service record and I was surprised how many times I took the rig in for the radio issue! It never worked right! I am the original owner and I have 203,000 miles.

Anyway, can you advise what what tires and wheels you have? 285/70R17? Do you experience rubbing anywhere? Offset? I'm looking to upgrade. Thanks in advance.

George

 

[NKP Garage]

Congrats on the purchase. Seems like minimal fixes to get it baselined and all working properly. Love the color!

 

[Ed3k]

Ed3k,

I agree with others. Great color! I have the same rig. 2009 LX570. I also had the same radio issue. It's been a mystery since the beginning. Just reviewed my service record and I was surprised how many times I took the rig in for the radio issue! It never worked right! I am the original owner and I have 203,000 miles.

Anyway, can you advise what what tires and wheels you have? 285/70R17? Do you experience rubbing anywhere? Offset? I'm looking to upgrade. Thanks in advance.

George

Thanks! Unfortunately, now my radio won't work properly past 30 seconds or so. It sounds fine, then sounds garbled and muffled like only some frequencies are coming through. Not sure if it's between the receiver, amp, or a grounding issue.

Going to check the connections in the kicker panels, and if that's not it, I'll leave it off for a while and see if it changes in colder weather. If it's the weather, then I'll probably try and get the receiver rehab'd. If not, then the amp.

The tires are 285/60R18 120S XL Toyo ATIII w/ Method MR305 NV, 18x9, 25mm offset. They passed inspection but the tire bulge extends about 1/3" past the fender. No rubbing at all, but I'm not sure if they'll fit upgraded Tundra/16+ brakes.

 

[LX Cruiser]

I'm not sure if they'll fit upgraded Tundra/16+ brakes

They will. Tundras can run 18” wheels easily and even 17”s

 

[Ed3k]

Fixed the radio!

Double-checked the amp and it looks fantastic inside and out - no corrosion on connectors and the panel itself is sealed in some kind of clear rubber; carpet was freed up too (I cut it when I first bought it to let more airflow in just in case), and no dirt or moisture down there. Checked the wiring connectors in the kick plates and all looks great. Fuses all fine. Checked the front cowl for leaks and no issues (but doubled up on weather stripping above the cabin air intake just in case). Checked the sunroof and totally clean, all drains well.

FIX: Swapped the radio with an LS460 radio (per @electro992's post: LX570 Audio/Electrical Gremlins - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/lx570-audio-electrical-gremlins.959977/page-2#post-14119217) and it was virtually identical other than the sticker information (and obviously the faceplate and mounting brackets). Everything is plug and play, all buttons work, all features in the menu work. It doesn't even turn off for half a second over bumps. It's amazing, and I'm so relieved (knock on wood).

But -- along the way I did discover my recirc door was actually not working, so ordered the fix from Etsy.

My theory is that the radio either died from (1) age and the extra load of the GROM VL2 (so I uninstalled that), or (2) from extra moisture due to the recirc door not working.