New Member - 2002 LX470 Roast Me (1 Viewer)

[zcostilla]

Topside looks really clean. Definitely looks like a northern vehicle underneath. I grew up in The Cleveland and Akron areas so I never had a car that didn’t look like that underneath until I joined the service.

Best of luck getting it up to your expectations.

 

[kappelmon]

A few updates... I got a bad back but this wasn't too bad. Gonna grab an angle grinder brush to get the wheel well covers off. They have a rubber coating and i can't really access the shock tops or the framing they're connected to.

 

[Red Beard]

Really doesn't look terrible. Good on you to do all of that! Also it appears you were able to get the towhooks off without them breaking, the rusty bolt gods are smiling upon you.

While you're in there, its worth it to replace the spare tire winch and the 4 bolts holding it in. I replaced mine when I did some rear end work for some peace of mind. You don't want that failing in time of need. Not sure for your model, but heres the one that matched the VIN on my 06. It was cheapest on PartSouq for me.

It looks like you have the common hole in the frame on the driver side cross member. My indy shop noticed it and wouldnt let it pass inspection. $1k to fix. YMMV.

 

[JustEthan]

Nice looking truck. It will look better with the undercarriage cleaned up and treated.

I have a less rusty 2007 and was also planning to keep AHC as my lines looked pretty good and my globes and pump passed all initial tests. That is, until my wife was two hours from home and one of the lines sprung a pinhole leak, leaving her in a pickle. Given that she drives this as often as I do, swapping to a conventional suspension was the right choice for me. I miss AHC, but didn't want to deal with another possible point of failure.

What's your plan of attack to remediate that crust and keep her running?

 

[kappelmon]

Nice looking truck. It will look better with the undercarriage cleaned up and treated.

I have a less rusty 2007 and was also planning to keep AHC as my lines looked pretty good and my globes and pump passed all initial tests. That is, until my wife was two hours from home and one of the lines sprung a pinhole leak, leaving her in a pickle. Given that she drives this as often as I do, swapping to a conventional suspension was the right choice for me. I miss AHC, but didn't want to deal with another possible point of failure.

What's your plan of attack to remediate that crust and keep her running?

I found this Repair Geek video. He recommends VHT Rust Converter followed by a lanolin based rust & corrosion protective coating. Re-apply the lanolin coating once a year.

Ironman 4x4 had/has? a 25% off Memorial Day sale so I put in an order for a Nitro Gas Kit with Diff drop. Planning to install that when it comes but they're on back order so likely a few months out. Gonna hold onto the AHC parts and perhaps make some new lines out of copper brake line but haven't done enough research. I couldn't find anyone who has done similar. Just from looking at it I hope I only need to replace the lines that run into each shock. Still need to run the AHC test. She goes up and down though it's pretty slow on the ups... maybe 10-15 seconds to get from L to N.

Lastly, my wife just moved back to high desert in Mexico. Should help it stay strong once I'm there with her!

Really doesn't look terrible. Good on you to do all of that! Also it appears you were able to get the towhooks off without them breaking, the rusty bolt gods are smiling upon you.

While you're in there, its worth it to replace the spare tire winch and the 4 bolts holding it in. I replaced mine when I did some rear end work for some peace of mind. You don't want that failing in time of need. Not sure for your model, but heres the one that matched the VIN on my 06. It was cheapest on PartSouq for me.

It looks like you have the common hole in the frame on the driver side cross member. My indy shop noticed it and wouldnt let it pass inspection. $1k to fix. YMMV.

I only had one bolt snap. 12mm on the bumper cover. I was excited and didn't PB at first... I'm lucky on those towhook bolts! Won't make that mistake again.

Okay good looking out. I was gonna drop the spare tire winch, along with a bunch of bolts and whatever else, in a vat of rust remover recommended by that old Adam Savage. But certainly may end up replacing it altogether. My spare winch tool doesn't have the little lock in key for it so mine has been altered to accept the hook.

That frame hole just appeared on me! ...along with that larger hole on the bottom. It may have been from a 2lb ball peen hammer.... But seriously that is good to know. I may cut it out and weld a new piece in there. Not sure though as I've never welded on frame but learning is the fun part! I noticed when I stuck my finger through I can reach through the inner wall of the main frame as well so it certainly needs addressing.

 

[OwnerCS]

I found this Repair Geek video. He recommends VHT Rust Converter followed by a lanolin based rust & corrosion protective coating. Re-apply the lanolin coating once a year.

Ironman 4x4 had/has? a 25% off Memorial Day sale so I put in an order for a Nitro Gas Kit with Diff drop. Planning to install that when it comes but they're on back order so likely a few months out. Gonna hold onto the AHC parts and perhaps make some new lines out of copper brake line but haven't done enough research. I couldn't find anyone who has done similar. Just from looking at it I hope I only need to replace the lines that run into each shock. Still need to run the AHC test. She goes up and down though it's pretty slow on the ups... maybe 10-15 seconds to get from L to N.

Lastly, my wife just moved back to high desert in Mexico. Should help it stay strong once I'm there with her!


I only had one bolt snap. 12mm on the bumper cover. I was excited and didn't PB at first... I'm lucky on those towhook bolts! Won't make that mistake again.

Okay good looking out. I was gonna drop the spare tire winch, along with a bunch of bolts and whatever else, in a vat of rust remover recommended by that old Adam Savage. But certainly may end up replacing it altogether. My spare winch tool doesn't have the little lock in key for it so mine has been altered to accept the hook.

That frame hole just appeared on me! ...along with that larger hole on the bottom. It may have been from a 2lb ball peen hammer.... But seriously that is good to know. I may cut it out and weld a new piece in there. Not sure though as I've never welded on frame but learning is the fun part! I noticed when I stuck my finger through I can reach through the inner wall of the main frame as well so it certainly needs addressing.

Thanks for sharing that info. Tacoma owners can purchase frame repair panels to correct rusty frame sections. It has been done before.

 

[OwnerCS]

I am replacing the filler pipe on my 2002. Here's the cost at McGeorge. Note that part numbers may vary by year. I would have moved the pipe from the LX but the part numbers are different from a 1999 to 2002.

 

[JustEthan]

I found this Repair Geek video. He recommends VHT Rust Converter followed by a lanolin based rust & corrosion protective coating. Re-apply the lanolin coating once a year.

Ironman 4x4 had/has? a 25% off Memorial Day sale so I put in an order for a Nitro Gas Kit with Diff drop. Planning to install that when it comes but they're on back order so likely a few months out. Gonna hold onto the AHC parts and perhaps make some new lines out of copper brake line but haven't done enough research. I couldn't find anyone who has done similar. Just from looking at it I hope I only need to replace the lines that run into each shock. Still need to run the AHC test. She goes up and down though it's pretty slow on the ups... maybe 10-15 seconds to get from L to N.

Lastly, my wife just moved back to high desert in Mexico. Should help it stay strong once I'm there with her!

The Ironman stuff is very well regarded, so that seems like a great plan. I have kept all of the AHC parts on my truck, should I eventually move somewhere without salt and want to revert to AHC. Unlikely, but you never know. If you're headed to the high desert, I'd think the stock lines would be fine, although if you custom fabricate, you might be able to do it in-situ and make the install a bit easier on yourself. Some of those lines can be very challenging according to what I have read.

 

[MississippiLC100]

@kappelmon I noticed you had a similar spot in your frame that looks like there is a hole in it. I have the same situation. Just bought a 1998LC and I found a troubling spot. It got worse when I put a screwdriver through it. It’s the cross section behind the spare. Did you address it?

 

[Fairgame]

Good deal and a good metal shop can pretty much fabricate or plate anything of concern. The alternative is to get a chassis and parts from a breaker?

 

[kappelmon]

@kappelmon I noticed you had a similar spot in your frame that looks like there is a hole in it. I have the same situation. Just bought a 1998LC and I found a troubling spot. It got worse when I put a screwdriver through it. It’s the cross section behind the spare. Did you address it?View attachment 3508231

Hey @MississippiLC100 if you are referring to the piece I think you are I still haven't addressed mine but that is apparently a common trouble spot. My plan is to cut out and weld in new steel. Unfortunately it spread to my actual frame so I gotta get 3 pieces cut and welded in. Here's a photo of one that's been fixed, albeit is hard to see way up in the top left corner. And honestly, I would drill a drain hole in that new piece cause that's the reason it's a trouble spot, holds water. Not sure why this one didn't but I'm not the most knowledgeable either.

 

[magikaram]

Fellow Kansan here,

Only came with the sub key. Plan to flash the ECU and program new master keys....

How was your luck with flashing the ECU and programming new master keys?

 

[kappelmon]

Fellow Kansan here,


How was your luck with flashing the ECU and programming new master keys?

Hey fellow Kansan @magikaram since Hell's frozen over here I have time to tell you my experience.

Basically, I messed up. But I have a temporary solution.

So, all I had was a valet key. I bought a few master style keys from eBay sellers who offer to cut the key based on a photo, so I sent a photo of my valet key. Now, I realize that was a mistake. The valet is not the same cut as the master.

Not knowing my mistake, as I had 2 new valet keys instead of master keys, I reached out to @Mauser and he generously helped me with programming on Techstream. I flashed my ECU, and registered my new incorrectly cut master keys. Once registered, the ECU is calling them something like "UNRECOGNIZED" (I can't remember the exact phrasing). In the end, I have 3 valet keys that all do start up, but no masters, and cannot get the remote locks to respond to the fob, probably because of the registration status in the ECU but I'm not certain.

From what I've gathered, here's the correct procedure if you have no master key:

1) Get a blank master key off eBay (for the 2002 it is a 4c chip)

2) Have the key cut from the VIN by a locksmith or dealership (I've seen posts saying this is around $40, but haven't done it yet myself)

3) Flash your ECU with Techstream to delete all the old registered keys (@Mauser helped me big here but you're going to need to purchase an OBD2 to USB that can read the correct version of Techstream for your year such as: Amazon.com - https://a.co/d/ea6Vypd)

4) Program the new master key using Techstream

There may be an additional step to program the remote locks once you're here, unless that gets taken care of automatically when a master is properly registered on the ECU, but I wouldn't know as I'm back at square one.

Anywho, I'm about $150 in on the process, and probably would be further along if I just called an automotive locksmith from the get go and paid the $300. But, if you're like me and like to figure things out for yourself by bashing your head against the wall, this is the method I am pursuing.

 

[magikaram]

Hey fellow Kansan @magikaram since Hell's frozen over here I have time to tell you my experience.

Basically, I messed up. But I have a temporary solution.

So, all I had was a valet key. I bought a few master style keys from eBay sellers who offer to cut the key based on a photo, so I sent a photo of my valet key. Now, I realize that was a mistake. The valet is not the same cut as the master.

Not knowing my mistake, as I had 2 new valet keys instead of master keys, I reached out to @Mauser and he generously helped me with programming on Techstream. I flashed my ECU, and registered my new incorrectly cut master keys. Once registered, the ECU is calling them something like "UNRECOGNIZED" (I can't remember the exact phrasing). In the end, I have 3 valet keys that all do start up, but no masters, and cannot get the remote locks to respond to the fob, probably because of the registration status in the ECU but I'm not certain.

From what I've gathered, here's the correct procedure if you have no master key:

1) Get a blank master key off eBay (for the 2002 it is a 4c chip)

2) Have the key cut from the VIN by a locksmith or dealership (I've seen posts saying this is around $40, but haven't done it yet myself)

3) Flash your ECU with Techstream to delete all the old registered keys (@Mauser helped me big here but you're going to need to purchase an OBD2 to USB that can read the correct version of Techstream for your year such as: Amazon.com - https://a.co/d/ea6Vypd)

4) Program the new master key using Techstream

There may be an additional step to program the remote locks once you're here, unless that gets taken care of automatically when a master is properly registered on the ECU, but I wouldn't know as I'm back at square one.

Anywho, I'm about $150 in on the process, and probably would be further along if I just called an automotive locksmith from the get go and paid the $300. But, if you're like me and like to figure things out for yourself by bashing your head against the wall, this is the method I am pursuing.

Do your "valet" keys lock/unlock the glovebox?
I'm curious since there's what appears to be a remote start system in my truck enabling me to bypass the immobilizer somehow with fresh cut keys (and no reprogramming)

 

[geo5]

Any updates on the chassis repairs? How’s the AHC doing?
Fellow wall/head basher here. Your key saga sounds exactly like something I would do. Cheers.

 

[kappelmon]

Do your "valet" keys lock/unlock the glovebox?
I'm curious since there's what appears to be a remote start system in my truck enabling me to bypass the immobilizer somehow with fresh cut keys (and no reprogramming)

No, they are unable to open my glovebox. Interesting on the remote start. Do your fobs work with remote locks too?

 

[magikaram]

No, they are unable to open my glovebox. Interesting on the remote start. Do your fobs work with remote locks too?

I believe my keys in the ignition are seen as 'unrecognized' but I'll need to hook up tech stream as soon as this sub-zero temps blow over to confirm.

I got some fobs from ebay and got them programmed even with the unrecognized keys. (though they're poor quality replacements, since the only range they have is just outside the passenger/driver doors) I wouldn't recommend them, going to try with 1010 keys from ebay next.

I've got the module up in the driver footwell, and can see the wire splices they made, so I'll have to grab that module and see if there's a key/chip in it that's letting me start the car without the programmed keys.

 

[kappelmon]

Any updates on the chassis repairs? How’s the AHC doing?
Fellow wall/head basher here. Your key saga sounds exactly like something I would do. Cheers.

Got one of those nice little cheap scaler tools from HF and had a blast removing more of the scale I was having trouble with. After taking off the running boards and panel trim I found quite a bit more rust on the body, mostly around the body support ribs that the front and rear running board braces anchor into.

Was distracted/busy/lazy this past summer/fall and by the time I came back to this it was too cold to apply the rust converter so I went ahead and tossed on the new fuel tank on 1/9/24. Luckily now I have a better idea of what needs done and got most of the deep scales off so once it warms up I'll convert and coat. Unluckily, I am 99% sure I made a rookie mistake by letting the truck run on fumes to empty the old fuel tank and burnt out my fuel pump so I haven't been able to start it. New pump was nice and cheap on rock auto but won't be here for a couple more days.

AHC system didn't leak when I put the truck weight back on it after 6 months on jack stands. I did do some light descaling on the lines and popped some rust converter but I still have a iron man suspension I'm hesitating to install while looking at the possibility of following a cool AHC fix I found here by @Urtwob on IH8MUD. I'll link it here shortly.

AHC Leak (Rusty Line)

I saw this thread way back in October (AHC Leak Thread) when I was searching here because I had a similar issue. I thought it would be cleaner to start a new thread. I was just moving in to a new house at the time, in fact it was carrying a full load over the less than perfect road to my new...

forum.ih8mud.com

Once I confirm I have a running truck again I can start my timing belt change which I gotta do before Feb 15th cause I have a new job in Seattle and this puppy is my moving truck.