New Lug on Positive Battery Wire (1 Viewer)

Joined
Sep 7, 2008
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The Rotten Apple
 
 
On a 100, the positive battery wire is underneath the nut connecting the positive battery terminal to the fusible link (black box behind the battery.) I've been trying to remove this nut for the better part of three days now in order to replace the fusible link with a new unit, and the Toyota OEM positive terminal with a Slee Extended military version. I realized this evening that perhaps a better solution would be to just cut the positive battery wire and crimp a new lug on. Then I checked out the price of the OEM positive battery wire - it lists for over $600 bucks! Is there something unique about this wire and/or lug that if I cut the old lug off and crimp a new one on, my rig won't start, or I'll encounter other problems.
 
Joined
Sep 24, 2017
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Texas
A pic would help, but on both 100s I had to use an impact wrench to get the nut off, I found the sudden impulse of the impact wrench broke the nut free, as I couldn't hold it with a wrench.
 

Mike6158

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Weimar, TX
 
This might help. See the black wire going from the negative battery terminal to the ground lug at the fender well? I made that (it's a lot bigger than factory). You need the connectors, lead free (large diameter) solder, #4 copper wire, and a propane torch. And some experience but that comes from doing. If you look closely you'll see new ends on everything and the fuse box connector has been modified for the military style terminals (bought from Slee Offroad).

 

gregnash

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If you are looking for upgraded battery cables, @Fourrunner is in the process of building a kit. Hasn't completed it yet, but a few of us has been helping him with measurements and whatnot for a "big 3" upgrade kit.
 

hankinid

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Jul 27, 2009
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SW Idaho
 
 
This might help. See the black wire going from the negative battery terminal to the ground lug at the fender well? I made that (it's a lot bigger than factory). You need the connectors, lead free (large diameter) solder, #4 copper wire, and a propane torch. And some experience but that comes from doing. If you look closely you'll see new ends on everything and the fuse box connector has been modified for the military style terminals (bought from Slee Offroad).
I would recommend a lead/tin solder, as lead free is not suitable for electrical wiring. Most common is SN63...63% tin and 37% lead...it's the eutectic alloy of tin and lead, meaning it goes from liquid to solid instantly. Non-eutectic alloys have an intermediate "pasty" range and if the wire is moved while the terminal is in that range you end up with a bad solder joint. You also want to use solder with a rosin based flux...that "wets" the solder joint prior to the solder flowing.

Steve (formerly soldering instructor at the China Lake NWC).

OT, if Slee is offering a mil-spec terminal, you're better off using a crimp tool designed for the lug. Solder is normally not used on large power lugs on aircraft and military ground vehicles. ;)
 

dogdaysindurham

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Aug 24, 2011
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475
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Laguna Beach CA
 
Molex has a nice battery lug crimper tool that can handle #8 - 4/0 AW for only about for ~75 bucks. 19284-0034 Molex Hand Crimping Tool
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Datasheet for it.

I have been using tinned lugs and the crimp quality has been fantastic for me in my Big 3 cables and wiring for my dual battery set up. As I have had mixed luck with the hammer crimp tools when making some custom cables. One note, is that this particular crimper is not made in USA/Switzerland like a lot of other Molex tooling. It is made in Taiwan and it is very well made and should last for quite a while.

I will try and post some pictures of crimps if I can find them on my phone or take pictures next crimp job.
 
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