New lock cylinders for the 62 (1 Viewer)

[Spook50]

So this morning I got my complete new lock cylinder and key set from @ToyotaMatt. All brand new OEM parts save for the the rear hatch cylinder (which he completely rebuilt since those can't be re-keyed; the rest of the set is re-keyed to match that) and the passenger door cylinder (NLA from Toyota so he used all new internal parts inside the housing from my truck, which was clean and corrosion free). Brand new OEM gaskets and freshly cut OEM keys (two black tipped for me to keep and an all metal that I can conceal somewhere on the truck in case of a lockout). My doors and everything are already taken apart for restoration anyway, so swapping these in will be an easy task this afternoon and I'll be sending my old cores back so he has good ones for future jobs. More to come...

Also a ton of nuts and bolts for ballast

 

[Spook50]

Did the swap this evening and really it's a piece of cake for the most part. The rear hatch is the closest to being difficult but it you're patient and have a pair of needle nose pliers it's not so bad. I didn't take pictures of the removal because the cylinder was a dusty greasy mess and I didn't want to get gunk all over my phone. Got some of the installation which you'll be able to figure out removal based on that though.

Before putting it in I took the time and removed all the rust and rust stains on the paint that were left by old large rubber surround when it deteriorated. Took several applications of Naval Jelly, letting them sit for 15 minutes or so, then wiping off with a wet cloth and drying the area. Wanted it good and clean though since all the cylinders came with nice new OEM rubber gaskets.

The hinged portion on the back of the cylinder needs to be jockeyed around a bit to get everything lined up and inserted properly. Once that's squared away you'll need to push in hard against the outer ring of the cylinder and work the clamp back into place. It's a tight fit with a new gasket and the clamp is going to want to fight you. A long pair of needle nose pliers comes in handy here to work it into place. Note the position of the hinged part and how it connects to the latch rod.

Underneath where the hinged part contacts the back of the plastic there are a couple ears and a slot for a C clip in there. This is what the lock solenoid rod connects to and the first part you'll disconnect and remove from the cylinder assembly when you go to take it out. Here you can see (from the driver's side) how that is installed and connected to the solenoid rod (the blue plastic clip).

Clean shiny new hatch lock cylinder installed with fresh OEM rubber gasket. The gasket is thick enough that it negates the need for the big rubber surround piece. I think it looks much better this way when everything's clean as opposed to even a fresh rubber surround. Much less inviting to corrosion too, since the rubber surround piece is actually pot metal coated with rubber. Even a little pinhole in the rubber coating and after a couple years you have a crusty mess leaking rust water all down your hatch and tailgate.

 

[Spook50]

The front doors and fuel door are easy 10-second swaps. Most time consuming part of the doors is pulling the interior panels (which mine are already off since I'm restoring the doors completely). For reference sake, here's a shot of the passenger door cylinder from the inside, and you can see where it connects to the plastic lever that controls the lock linkage.

Did the Naval Jelly and wet rag cleanup again (did this with all but the ignition cylinder) to make for a nice clean surface for the new gasket to sit against and form a good clean seal.

 

[Spook50]

The ignition cylinder is easy, but takes a bit of getting to. Not difficult but takes a few minutes. First off you need to remove the wheel and then remove the clamshell. Then you remove the four screws holding the turn signal lever assembly in place and pull it forward just enough to access the
darker colored pin showing in the housing that holds the cylinder.

A small allen wrench works well for getting to this. All you have to do is put your key in, turn it to ACC, push in the pin and the cylinder slides right out. I had already pulled the key back out when I went to take this picture.

New cylinder goes in the same way. New key in the new cylinder, turn to ACC, slip it in until the pin clicks into place and you're good to go.

Then remove your key like normal, check everything to make sure all is working as it should, put everything back together and you're good to go!

Big shout out to @ToyotaMatt for the great work and sourcing all quality OEM parts (right down to the individual tumblers that go inside of the cylinders). This isn't a cheap job, but well worth it IMO to have nice new tight fitting cylinders that won't be easily picked, with new OEM Toyota keys.

 

[joebattle1]

I really need to do this...

 

[Miloslavich]

Looks Good! Nice job. I have some from @ToyotaMatt on the way.

 

[Earwigg]

Good timing I have a set of locks I want to swap out of a parts truck.

 

[MarkBC]

He did mine too. I want to hack into that liftgate mechanism to make a lever to open it from the inside.

 

[Spook50]

He did mine too. I want to hack into that liftgate mechanism to make a lever to open it from the inside.

The gray tab that comes up right over the handle does that. Just grab it, pull up and push the hatch open.

 

[MarkBC]

 

[poptart]

Did you have to send him the rear hatch cylinder or does he have them? On my FJ62 I think one of the previous owners swapped the rear hatch lock with a FJ60 one because it doesn’t have all the connections on the back of it for the power lock stuff and neither of my keys will turn it.

 

[Spook50]

Did you have to send him the rear hatch cylinder or does he have them? On my FJ62 I think one of the previous owners swapped the rear hatch lock with a FJ60 one because it doesn’t have all the connections on the back of it for the power lock stuff and neither of my keys will turn it.

I think it depends on what you want. If you want to pay more and have a new OEM hatch cylinder, and don't care what the new key code is, he'll get the hatch cylinder, re-key the others to match (the rear hatch cylinders can't be re-keyed but can be restored) and send them to you. I didn't care about having a new key code, so I sent him my hatch cylinder and put some mailing tape over the hole to seal out rain. Turn-around took a bit cause he does these to order and had to wait for parts to come in, so it was a real PITA to have to climb/reach over the rear seat to open the hatch during my road trip with my kids, but now everything's in, new and good to go. It's amazing the difference new cylinders with new keys will make.

 

[poptart]

I think it depends on what you want. If you want to pay more and have a new OEM hatch cylinder, and don't care what the new key code is, he'll get the hatch cylinder, re-key the others to match (the rear hatch cylinders can't be re-keyed but can be restored) and send them to you. I didn't care about having a new key code, so I sent him my hatch cylinder and put some mailing tape over the hole to seal out rain. Turn-around took a bit cause he does these to order and had to wait for parts to come in, so it was a real PITA to have to climb/reach over the rear seat to open the hatch during my road trip with my kids, but now everything's in, new and good to go. It's amazing the difference new cylinders with new keys will make.

Honestly, just want it to lock at this point. Don’t mind carrying an extra key for just the rear hatch for now.

 

[Spook50]

Honestly, just want it to lock at this point. Don’t mind carrying an extra key for just the rear hatch for now.

If you just want the rear hatch to lock, I'm pretty sure you can send him your hatch cylinder with your key code (it's printed on the passenger door cylinder) and he can restore it. Then it would stil match the rest of your locks.

 

[poptart]

Yeah that’s a possibility. I’m just not sure it’s a FJ62 rear hatch cylinder and would like the power locks to work. Notice it’s missing the tab with the blue clip.

 

[Spook50]

Yeah that’s a possibility. I’m just not sure it’s a FJ62 rear hatch cylinder and would like the power locks to work. Notice it’s missing the tab with the blue clip.View attachment 2340460

Yep that's a non power lock cylinder. What I can't tell from the pic is if the inner piece that pushes the tab to pop the latch has a provision to install the pivot tab and C clip for the solenoid rod. Does your hatch have the solenoid and rod in place?

 

[poptart]

Yep that's a non power lock cylinder. What I can't tell from the pic is if the inner piece that pushes the tab to pop the latch has a provision to install the pivot tab and C clip for the solenoid rod. Does your hatch have the solenoid and rod in place?

Yeah the solenoid and rod are in there. The rod is just dangling down below just out of view in the photo.

 

[Spook50]

Yeah the solenoid and rod are in there. The rod is just dangling down below just out of view in the photo.

Ah okay. So you may want to see if your hatch cylinder has the provision for the pivot tab and C clip. If not, see if you can source a corrosion free used one that does have the right setup.

Me being OCD about consistency, if you get a different hatch cylinder I would still get your existing set re-keyed to match it. Always drove me nuts having three separate keys for my '74 Plymouth when I owned it.....

 

[ToyotaMatt]

Hello Mark from in the great white north :

it this the rod and sleeve you refer to to make your gate unlock from the inside ?

the came out of a 60 or 62 For sure 100%

 

[ToyotaMatt]

this is the results of the outer housing snap ring shooting off due to corrosion on a Power Acuated 62 rear lock

the Plastic TIT is good if anyone needs one where the C clip goes for the SOLONOID as Mr @Spook50 outlines in detail above

give me a shout