New lift and questions on brake mount relocation (1 Viewer)

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Jan 25, 2010
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Ellicott City, MD
 
 
Just wanted to share some pictures of my cruiser with the OME 850 (+1" Mr. Gasket spacer) and 863 combo with doetsch shocks all around. She sits pretty level.

I did have a question for Tools R Us (and anyone else that can chime in) for his brake mount relocation.

What is this "1" wide strap" and what size drill bit did you use to drill the hole? Looking forward to your input. I am definitely a :banana:mechanic.

Thanks!
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Joined
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Chandler, AZ
 
 
It's simple and no need for precision. The goal is to add slack in the brake line to allow for full droop without stretching the line. I use 1" x 1/8" strap, band iron, flat steel, whatever that are calling it today, it's commonly available from metal yards, hardware stores, etc. It's really not critical, just about any metal scrap will work.

Not knowing how long your shocks are, the first step is to measure "need". Remove the line mount bolt, jack up the rig, so the axle is hanging, tires off of the ground, the shocks fully extended, drooped. Attempt to reattach the line bracket, depending on shock length, the line maybe tight, bracket not reach the hole, measure about how much is needed to give line slack. On mine, with L shocks (~11.5" travel) ~2" was needed.

The ones that I normally make are ~3" long strap, with the holes ~2" apart. The holes need to be big enough for the bolt to fit, in this case M8 X 1.25, so ~5/16" drill bit. Use the original bolt to fasten the new spacer bracket to the frame and a new nut and bolt to attach the line mount to the spacer.
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Joined
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Ah..ok. While I was installing my spacers up front, I had the car jacked up by the frame until all four tires were just slight off the ground. I noticed right the diff breather got yanked out right away. The brake lines were a little tight...My shock's measurements are 24.50 extended and 14.50 compressed.

I'll be doing this before hitting the trails. Thanks for the clarification!
 
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... I noticed right the diff breather got yanked out right away. ...
Both F&R breather lines likely need to be extended. I used 1/4" fuel line caped with cheap fuel filters. Ran the front to over the brake booster and the rear into the jack compartment near the fuel filler.
 
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I was reading your post regarding the washer caster mod. When you get a chance, can you post some pics of the finished product and any other hints/tips you might have. My steering is fine driving on local roads but on the highway, it's a little unstable. Thanks again.
 
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Tucson
 
 
Off topic but what's the story with your tire carrier?
BTW, I have the same springs and like the look of the 1" front spring spacers you put on your 80. Here's my 80 from Pinetop this past weekend:





It was nice getting into the snow.
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Joined
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Ellicott City, MD
 
 
Thanks for the compliment! I had a local fabricator build the dual swingout while incorporating the factory bumper. I don't do anything crazy and pretty much just wanted to get the spare out from the bottom and throw a couple of jerry cans in the back. It's very stable and function. I just have to find a way to keep the swingouts from going to far.

Nice truck! sliders and bumpers...I need to save some cash...
 
Joined
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I was reading your post regarding the washer caster mod. When you get a chance, can you post some pics of the finished product and any other hints/tips you might have. My steering is fine driving on local roads but on the highway, it's a little unstable. Thanks again.
I have never shot pix.:eek: What is your hub to fender flare measurements?
 
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The hub to fender flare measurement is about 23.5" all around. Any recommendations for the gas struts? I'll do my own research as well.
 
Joined
Jan 25, 2010
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Thank you Tools R Us

Thank you for your help. The front brake line did not need an extension. Diff breather for both front and rear is now extended as well. Quick question...where did you route the diff breather (exact location) from the undercarriage?

BTW, I have an extra set of the mod
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Joined
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Mine runs with the big fuel filler line to the quarter, through the grommet with the sunroof drain, into the drivers side rear quarter/jack compartment and terminates at the top of the gas filler boot.
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Last edited:

Chuy

07' GX470
Joined
Nov 12, 2010
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523
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Peoria
I have never shot pix.:eek: What is your hub to fender flare measurements?
Is there a thread somewhere on how to do the washer mod? I have searched here on mud for "washer mod" and "slotted washer mod" but the link to OZ was broken and pictures were not working. I am getting ready to buy my lift but I want to make sure I can do this portion for the caster correction when I buy the Front J springs and rear heavy. If I had to guess it implies drilling a hole somewhere and welding in some washers.
 

LandCruiserPhil

Peter Pan Syndrome
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Scottsdale Arizona
 
 
 
Is there a thread somewhere on how to do the washer mod? I have searched here on mud for "washer mod" and "slotted washer mod" but the link to OZ was broken and pictures were not working. I am getting ready to buy my lift but I want to make sure I can do this portion for the caster correction when I buy the Front J springs and rear heavy. If I had to guess it implies drilling a hole somewhere and welding in some washers.
Not the greatest but you get the idea
http://www.lcool.org/technical/80_series/caster_mods.html
 
Joined
Jan 25, 2010
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Ellicott City, MD
 
 
Thanks X2 to Tools R Us

The bolt jack method is working out really well for me. The truck drives A LOT better now. You are a wealth of knowledge.
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