New issue! (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

chicago

chicago

Joined
Jan 18, 2006
Threads
434
Messages
9,610
Location
Reno, Nevada
Had a weird thing happen today that really concerns me and wanted to bounce it off you guys...
I was out driving the 40 to get the electric speedo calibrated. This requires turning the rig off to start the calibration process. I screwed up the sequence a couple of times which required about 3-4 re starts.
Everything was fine, fired w/out issues.
Last time, I turned the key and the motor wouldn't crank. Cel light on, e fan and heater fan worked, but nothing was engaging the starter.
Rusty dan came to my rescue we checked a few things out, after a bit he towed me home.
We pulled up in front of the house and we were un hooking the row strap, I decided to try it again for grins.... The bitch fired right up!!!!
Anyone have any ideas what I should be looking at!
It's a GM column, vortec motor, new battery, new cable and new wiring.

From what I googled.... I found ignition switch, solenoid or starter??
Now when I hit the key, there was NOTHING engaging the starter. No clicks, no noise, nothing. Rusty said there wasn't power at the solenoid when switched.
If not mistaken, the key switch in the column was replaced when I had a key made for the column???

Any help.

It starts fine now... This just screws w/ me!!!
 
Anything between the key switch and the starter? Relay? If so I would check the relay contacts and possibly replace the relay. If not then I would say that you need one. The key switch will overheat when asked to repeatedly supply the amperage to the starter solenoid. This assumes that the wiring is all intact.
 
Waggoner5 said:
Anything between the key switch and the starter? Relay? If so I would check the relay contacts and possibly replace the relay. If not then I would say that you need one. The key switch will overheat when asked to repeatedly supply the amperage to the starter solenoid. This assumes that the wiring is all intact.
Click to expand...

There's a NSS wired in.
I did stick a relay in there, but I don't quite recall what that was going to...it was a new relay.
Is that something that will work if it cools off, or does it just fail??

Thanks for the time!
 
you are running a GM column..... does that mean you are also running one of the passcode encrypted keys too?

I was going to ask if you had VATS disablled in the PCM?

Also you might want to make sure there is no issue with the oil pressure switch...as I recall it will keep the engine from starting.
 
Does the start issue happens only when the rig is nice and hot only ?
If so, your starter might not be getting enough juice ?

It starts fine when it cools off, correct ?
 
Gumby said:
Try not to curse in the subject line, especially in a form the filters won't catch.

Anything to say it wasn't the contacts in the solenoid?
Click to expand...

Gumby,
Sorry about that! Won't happen again. I figured the spelling play would be okay and non offensive. Again... Apologies.

As far as the contacts in the solenoid... Not sure. In considering what Wagoneer posted, I might be apt to consider that, but I'm also very suspicious of the solenoid too. I think rusty did say, there was no power getting to the solenoid though when it happened. That's what makes wagoneers post stand out that the switch might have overheated???
 
The column is out of an 86 firebird, so there's no chip in the key. I've fired it numerous times since I've had it running and never had an issue w/ it.
Should I pre emptively start replacing things like the starter ( it is used)??
As far as anti theft and pressure control disables... That stuff was all programmed out by Howell when I got the harness and the only comp control that was left in the wiring was the engine temp. The oil pressure switch (I dint think) was used for the Howell harness.

Thanks for the thoughts on this!!
 
GM does have some issues with the ignition switches.

If you can get it to do it again and you have a test light handy and help you can check for power at the solenoid. That should help narrow it down.

Clutch safety switch or neutral safety switch? If auto, try throwing it in neutral rather than park.
 
Gumby said:
GM does have some issues with the ignition switches.

If you can get it to do it again and you have a test light handy and help you can check for power at the solenoid. That should help narrow it down.

Clutch safety switch or neutral safety switch? If auto, try throwing it in neutral rather than park.
Click to expand...

Thanks gumby.
I checked on ignition switches, and they are only 15 bucks. Apparently, they are different than the key barrel.
I'll probably just replace it. However, now that it's working... Can't dx anything. Uuuuhh. I rather it be a fail vs. An intermittent fail.
When it did happen I tried starting in all gears. After it started again, I tried to start in neutral and it fired right up in neutral, so. Thats screwed too.
 
Remember, you can always jump the starter solenoid to get the motor to turn over and start as long as the key is in the "on" position.

Much easier than a tow..
 
it was a chupacabra
 
I would be tempted to install a known good new starter.
 
Starters are not typically the issue if there is not power going to them ;)
 
I'll probably do just that. Replace both the ignition switch and the solenoid.
Solenoid is about 30 bones and the switch is around 20.
Starter does seem very healthy.
To save some scratch earlier in the build, I did get the starter from PnP.
So far though, all the pulley crap that I got used, I've had to replace...
 
Picked up a new ign. Switch from napa, but they don't sell just the solenoid..

Gary,
Could you expand on the relay a bit?
I don't think I have one in the system.
 
chicago said:
After it started again, I tried to start in neutral and it fired right up in neutral, so. Thats screwed too.
Click to expand...

It should start in neutral. When the P/N switch goes it'll often only puke in the park position. If it only starts in neutral it's a neutral safety switch. Easy diagnoses.

I h8 intermittent problems.
 
chicago said:
Picked up a new ign. Switch from napa, but they don't sell just the solenoid...
Click to expand...

Find a local mom and pop type place that does electrical rebuilds. You should be able to get a solenoid there.

Don
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Users who are viewing this thread

Total: 2 (members: 0, guests: 2)

Share this page

Back
Top Bottom