New HJ60 owner

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Apr 26, 2009
Hi guys, I'm new to this forum, just because I recently got my new old 1984 HJ 60 Gpack,with 24V 2H engine, that replaced my 1989 1st gen 4runner I wrecked.

Car has a very healthy frame, not so healthy body-especially the roof, good transmission,and great running engine,LSD diff
It is at the shop right now-new clutch,tie rod ends,...
Since these are rare beasts around here I have a few questions:

1. What is normal operating temperatures for 2H, during normal driving temp needle stays waay below middle, but during highway driving at higher speed it climbs to the middle and stays there-if I slow down it drops. Heating is working so I think T-stat is in place.

2. What is proper way to start it-with gas or without? Mine starts hard without gas when it is cold, easier when warm. I wait for the glow light to turn off, and then wait for the second click. When it starts it puffs black smoke like it is overinjecting otherwise no smoke whatsoever even under heavy load.

3. Electrical questions - What is the purpose of the pull out-push in switch above the fuse box all the way to the left??
Is the cig. lighter 24 or 12 volts?

Long beams are not working, but all the fuses are ok??
Rear heater is not blowing
Rear wiper is not working, but rear washer is operating

I know it is many questions, but I'm sure there will be more:), since I plan to keep this Cruiser - they just don't build vehicles like this any more;)

Greetings from Croatia

With a diesel, you shouldn't need to give it any fuel to start, I would suspect a glow issue, could be timer/ plugs you really need to get a FSM (Factory Service Manual) then troubleshoot the glow system. I find once I start my 2H it hardly need to glowed after that (unless it sits for many hours).

Don't know about the push/pull switch... post a picture.

Headlight troubleshooting is a PIA, can't help you there.

Rear heater - could be seized/ could be the switch/ could be the relay/ could be the fuse. You need to get a meter on it and see if it's getting power.

Rear wiper - see above

Thanks !
I'll post some pics of the truck and switches when it gets back from the shop- truck is slightly PO'd :rolleyes: - some weird switches and cut wires,weird items that are not hooked up under the hood,radio hooked up directly to one battery:hillbilly:,added oil cooler, hopefully my mechanic will take care of most of this little items since electrics, especially this 24V is not exactly my speciality:)
Cruiser is getting new clutch, tie rod ends, rear U-joint, brake pads, all oils(almost 12 liters of engine oil:eek:), filters...
Another quick question-since radio was connected directly to one battery for few weeks,they are probably not in balance- is it possible to correct the issue by recharging the batteries to the same voltage- they are almost new by the looks and I really don't have spare cash for new batteries at the moment.

Give it a shot, I'm guessing it should top up. I charge mine every couple of months to keep them topped up, due to the converter drain.
Do not take tap 12V from one battery, it will kill it, get a 24V -> 12V converter, or a battery equalizer of some kind. The converter will also kill the battery (ies) eventually due to the power drain of the converter itself, unless you put a switch on it. If you do switch it, you'll lose the memory of the stereo i.e. clock and presets.
Recharge the batteries each by themselves and they should match back up.

My temp gauge hangs about the middle and moves only slightly up when hard climbing a hill and slightly down when coasting down. It doesn't really vary too much.

I start mine with no extra fuel as soon as the glow light goes off.

good luck and have fun - you've got an awesome truck. 24 volts is a bit of a pain in the ass, but the truck sure starts nicely in the cold. And I think that 12 liters of oil is a good part of the reason those engines can happily go over 500k Km.

Get a 24 to 12 volt converter for all your 12 v accessories. As you seem to know, tapping off one battery for 12v will cook your batteries.
Thanks for the replies :cheers:
Truck already has a 24-12 converter but PO didn't know how to use it :rolleyes:.
I'll deal with hard starting issues later- right now I'm dealing with the big, messy stuff :).
Maybe the reason for lower operating temperatures is added oil cooler:hmm:
Hello - sounds similar to my truck

Pushy puller on your far left (my far right in UK) is possible a hand operated accelerator. Set to foot accelerator - pull it out and the foot accelerator will stay the same.

Mine runs under half - really about 1/4 most of the time. Its not in the blue so a figure it is fine - I get plenty of heat from the fan.

Rear wash wiper could be the switch (take it apart and clean contacts with emery cloth) or it could be the connector behind the rear left light. If you bodywork is bad - water may well have ingressed.

Cig plug is probably 24v - but stick a volt meter in it to test. Previous owner may have messed around with it....
If you buy the expensive batteries with the 3 year unconditional warranty, run whatever you want off them then take them back when they are fried.

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