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Joined
Jan 10, 2021
Threads
4
Messages
20
Location
Dallas, Texas
Website
dfwoceanviewpools.com
So I recently just joined and cant tell you how good it feels to be a part of this. Thank you for having me.
I recently bought a 2004 100 Series from a friend. It's a one owner with 254,000 miles and belonged to a couple with no kids who took tremendous care of it.
It does however have the original shocks (no air susp), and needs a list of other items that are worn with time and mileage. So here is what I bought and not yet installed it all yet:

All new OEM coils and spark plugs installed, OEM fuel filter installed, Numerous fuel lines replaced, New OEM battery, battery tray and cables. Also Drained and replaced all of the fluids with OEM fluids, including brakes. Did an engine flush also and filled with Mobile One.
NOT installed: OME 2 inch lift kit including shocks, rear springs, torsion bars, SLEE DIFF Drop, Trail Taylor front and rear sway bar links, and numerous OEM bushings, brackets, mounts, etc....
Not sure if i should buy UCA's or not. I will upload pics in the next couple of days. Love reading all of the forums
 
Welcome!

With the 2" lift, you might find that the OEM front UCAs make it hard/impossible to get correct alignment. Also be prepared for a real firm ride until you put some extra weight on that rig. OME shocks and torsion bars are a bit harsh on a stock rig.

Sounds like you're off to a good start!
 
Welcome!

With the 2" lift, you might find that the OEM front UCAs make it hard/impossible to get correct alignment. Also be prepared for a real firm ride until you put some extra weight on that rig. OME shocks and torsion bars are a bit harsh on a stock rig.

Sounds like you're off to a good start!
Is that uca statement lx specific or for lc too?
 
So I recently just joined and cant tell you how good it feels to be a part of this. Thank you for having me.
I recently bought a 2004 100 Series from a friend. It's a one owner with 254,000 miles and belonged to a couple with no kids who took tremendous care of it.
It does however have the original shocks (no air susp), and needs a list of other items that are worn with time and mileage. So here is what I bought and not yet installed it all yet:

All new OEM coils and spark plugs installed, OEM fuel filter installed, Numerous fuel lines replaced, New OEM battery, battery tray and cables. Also Drained and replaced all of the fluids with OEM fluids, including brakes. Did an engine flush also and filled with Mobile One.
NOT installed: OME 2 inch lift kit including shocks, rear springs, torsion bars, SLEE DIFF Drop, Trail Taylor front and rear sway bar links, and numerous OEM bushings, brackets, mounts, etc....
Not sure if i should buy UCA's or not. I will upload pics in the next couple of days. Love reading all of the forums
Congrats on the purchase and solid list of adds. You going to do tires?
 
@1Redford Welcome and thanks for donating to the site right off the bat. This forum has unlimited data over the last 20 years and its a small price to pay.

Like everyone else has already stated: your alignment shop will first dial in the camber, and then they will try to dial in the caster which wont be close to factory specs. New UCA's with caster correction will get to back to a nice highway ride with less steering wheel correction.

If its in your budget then I would invest in some since you're in there anyway.

I would also set aside some money for lower control arm bushings and the whiteline steering rack bushing kit. At 254k they'll be a world of a difference.
 
What caused the need to replace fuel lines? Leaks / dry rot? Don't see too much fuel line issues on here so I am curious
 
Welcome!

With the 2" lift, you might find that the OEM front UCAs make it hard/impossible to get correct alignment. Also be prepared for a real firm ride until you put some extra weight on that rig. OME shocks and torsion bars are a bit harsh on a stock rig.

Sounds like you're off to a good start!
I've read a number of the forums on UCA's. There's lots of loyalty to SPC. I'm open to what works but is durable and long lasting. Just not sure of who makes that.
 
@1Redford Welcome and thanks for donating to the site right off the bat. This forum has unlimited data over the last 20 years and its a small price to pay.

Like everyone else has already stated: your alignment shop will first dial in the camber, and then they will try to dial in the caster which wont be close to factory specs. New UCA's with caster correction will get to back to a nice highway ride with less steering wheel correction.

If its in your budget then I would invest in some since you're in there anyway.

I would also set aside some money for lower control arm bushings and the whiteline steering rack bushing kit. At 254k they'll be a world of a difference.
Which set of UCA's do you recommend? Also, who carries the whiteline steering rack bushing kit? I don't mind spending the extra for something that wont let me down.
 
What caused the need to replace fuel lines? Leaks / dry rot? Don't see too much fuel line issues on here so I am curious
Most of the lines on it are original. Some are dry rotting. But at 254,000 miles id rather replace them then call a wrecker or be stranded. I've replaced most everything that's rubber with new OEM hoses. Keep in mind that its not the outside of a rotting rubber hose that gets you, its all of the inside thats sluffing off and going through your fuel system / motor.
 
At the moment it has some sort of Continental tire on it. Will definitely put tires on it. Considering BFG AT-2's. Keep in mind this will be driven almost daily.
I drive mine daily and I love my Ko2’s. Don’t put on lame a$$ radials. Can run ko2 with a little less air high 30’s low 40’s psi if you want
 

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