new fuji carb help (1 Viewer)

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fort mill sc
I just put a city racer fuji carb in. I think the idle solenoid is not working no clicking. fuel in site glass fine at 50%. How should i hook it up. Black wire to solo black wire. green wire to solo black wire. how should i check power to it? any help on initial screw settings would be great too. idle mixture and idle speed. thanks

could take the old fuel solenoid off my stick carb i guess.
 

OSS

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As I recall, that carb's Fuel Cut Solenoid has one wire. The solenoid opens its fuel passageway when 12V+ is applied to its one wire when it is mounted on the manifold. It grounds through the carb body.

To find out which wire in the wiring harness is 12V+ for the solenoid, connect a voltmeter lead to one of the two wires and the the other to body ground.
Turn the ignition key to ON and see if you've got the polarity correct
 

Spike Strip

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The harness wires to the green ICS connector (if you still have it as well as stock wiring) should be Green and one White. The Green wire should be switched 12V+ ... 12V when key is in 'RUN' position (engine off) ... As OSS says, prolly best to check with test light or multimeter.

You can test the ICS directly by putting a 12V test lead to the ICS black wire and listening for the click. Carb must be bolted down or otherwise grounded with a wire to the engine/chassis/ -- Battery terminal.
 

Spike Strip

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Yes, there is an Engine Fuse for the ICS.

Idle Mix screw should be about 2 1/2 turns out, usually, to start. Idle speed should just crack the throttle body primary butterfly. These settings are in the FSM.
 

ToyotaMatt

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I just put a city racer fuji carb in. I think the idle solenoid is not working no clicking. fuel in site glass fine at 50%. How should i hook it up. Black wire to solo black wire. green wire to solo black wire. how should i check power to it? any help on initial screw settings would be great too. idle mixture and idle speed. thanks

could take the old fuel solenoid off my stick carb i guess.


you can always install a period correct 2 wire fuel cut , with the original 2 wire sealed YAZAKI connector profile ............




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Joined
Jan 2, 2009
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fort mill sc
I targeted 750 rpm as that seems to make all the stuff work well. Power steering, belts on water pump . I advanced the timing to barley seeing the mark in site glass. it seems to work well now. thanks.
 

mattressking

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I targeted 750 rpm as that seems to make all the stuff work well. Power steering, belts on water pump . I advanced the timing to barley seeing the mark in site glass. it seems to work well now. thanks.
Careful with timing here. Since you are running a non-smog carb, you've bypassed or removed the emissions equipment. The distributor is set from factory to assume egr is installed and functioning. Without using a Sun Machine or similar to recurve the distributor (others have just swapped springs as well) it's best to swap the vacuum advance hose from the main advance canister to the HAC canister (outboard vacuum port). This limits the amount of advance the engine uses and prevents pinging in higher rpms. Since you've already advanced the timing, general consensus here and my experience is swap the vac hose, set the timing to 7* then drive. Usually up to 10* is safe, however you are in South Carolina and you get 93 octane, so you can mask/prevent pinging by running higher octane and adjust timing to suit. Easiest method is to drive and listening for pinging at higher rpms, then back off the timing a degree at a time. Usually no more than 10-11 depending on altitude, octane type.
 
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