New fuel pump, No fuel (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Jan 24, 2005
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Location
Boonsboro, Maryland
I was trying to fire my Cruiser up last night after the full buildup. Ran before I did the buildup. Tried to start it to get it in the garage, but wasn't getting fuel. Thought bad fuel pump. Pushed it in. did build-up.

Put on a new pump during the build. New filter. Glass canister. new lines.
I blew through the lines from the filter and all is good. Put some fuel in the filter. cracked lines. whole nine and nothing at the carb.

This is on a 71' engine so no spacer issues. It is the aftermarket pump from CCOT. I have not taken it off of the engine yet, but I am sure it will pump fine when I do. If that is the case what is there to do to fix the issue.

I know someone else had that problem on here once where it is fine off engine but once on nothing. How would you go about getting it to ride on the lobes better to pump? Going to get it figured out this evening when I get home

Thanks, Mike
 
I have pulled the line at the carb and got nothing Dry as a bone.

Killed my battery from all the cranking.
 
ARe you sure the pump is installed correctly (arm resting up) so that it contacts the lobes? Inlet and outlet correct? Is the line from the tank good or could it be clogged?

Try running a hose to the inlet and use a small fuel can or cup to see if it will pump from there.
 
So, no fuel to the carb after an engine rebuild? I'm thinking it could be a couple things maybe...
1) I don't buy anything from CCOT anymore. So I would suspect the fuel pump. Still have the old one?
B) Wondering if a new fuel pump would like some priming?
III)Also, I think that fuel pumps pump much better when the engine is running than when cranking on a weak battery. Can you start the engine if you fill the carb bowl manually with fuel?
 
You need to manually check the pump to verify that it is operating correctly. The procedure that I use is found in the Max Ellery Land Cruiser Petrol manual, 1969 - 1990.

To check the fuel pump do the following:

1. Remove the pump from the vehicle. Run fuel through the pump, so check valves seal property.

2. Without blocking off inlet, outlet, and return pipes, depress the rocker arm. Note amount of force needed to operate and amount of play. Use the same amount of force in all checks.

3. Check the inlet valve. Block off outlet and return with your fingers and depress rocker arm. There should be an increase in rocker arm play and that it moves easliy.

4. Check the outlet valve. Block off inlet with your finger and depress the rocker arm. The rocker arm should lock.

5. Check Diaphragm. Block off inlet, outlet, and return and depress the rocker arm. The rocker arm should lock.

If checks in 3, 4, or 5 fail the test, the sealing of the pump is defective.

6. Check oil seal. Block off vent holes located on bottom of the pump and leave inlet, outlet, and return pipes open and depress rocker arm. The rocker arm should lock.

If the pump doesn't operation correctly in check, replace with a new fuel pump.

This maybe a dumb question, but you noted you just finished a build-up. Is there a good amount of gas in the tank?
 
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Yes starting fluid starts the engine. I did not rebuild the engine, rebuilt everything else but.
Yes 7 gallons of fuel in the tank. I put fuel in the filter bowl as well and it is not going anywhere

No blockage, everything new to the pump.

Yes lines are correct. barb fitting in, threaded fitting out.
Pump went on easy enough. Just push and put in two bolts.

I will have it out tonight to double check everything. I figured there should be nothing to it.

Which probably means it is something stupid going on. :)
 
So, no fuel to the carb after an engine rebuild? I'm thinking it could be a couple things maybe...
1) I don't buy anything from CCOT anymore. So I would suspect the fuel pump. Still have the old one?
B) Wondering if a new fuel pump would like some priming?
III)Also, I think that fuel pumps pump much better when the engine is running than when cranking on a weak battery. Can you start the engine if you fill the carb bowl manually with fuel?

X2 on the choice in parts. Napa sells a Raybestos mechanical pump, I believe they are the same mfg as the original. The pump is mechanical so it should be pumping while the engine is attempting to start. I didn't need to prime mine, the pump should force air out of the lines.

Cracked lines? I would change out ALL your soft fuel lines and verify that the hard lines don't have a blockage. New lines aren't expensive and worth the prevention.

Just curious, how old is the tank?

If it's original, I would be wary of that too. Debris might be clogging the bottom of the tank. Also, An old tank is just a constant source of fuel system contamination. The only thing I do reccommend from CCOT is the replica fuel tank. However, use the fuel sender included with it as a spare or sell it on eBay.

Good Luck!
 
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We shall see. It is a poly tank so no issues there.
I had pulled the line off at the filter and blew compressed air back to the tank. I found out all was good when fuel came right back up through the line from the pressure I put in the tank. :) Had to pull the gas cap to stop the fuel from flowing. :)

Only things I can think of is blockage after the pump. or the pump itself is not doing its thing.

All is well prior to pump.
 
I've been living this nightmare recently as well. It'll be interesting to see what you figure out.

We're leaving the country real soon and I'd like to fix the fuel issues or sell the bastid. Preferably, fix and then sell if I gotta get rid of the 40, but only the calendar knows which comes first.

:beer:
 
Did you hook the fuel line to the outlet port on the tank or the return?
I've bought fuel pumps(aftermarket) out of the box that didn't work.
 
Well after another night at it I did get it fired up. First took off pump to verify it works. It does as I thought. Put it back on and cranked for a while hit it with starting fluid to keep it going for a bit. Still nothing.

I went ahead and disconnected the large ventline going up to the gas cap and pressurized the system with some air cranked away I believe the second I hit the gas peddle that is what did it.

I would think the other way to do this without pressurizing the system would maybe be to keep the gas peddle pressed down so that it can bleed off the air in the system instead of tapping it a bit. Just a guess. If you figure it is a closed system until the peddle is pressed. So priming it is.

So all seemed good until I had fuel all over the carb and manifold :rolleyes: One thing after another.

If it isnt enough its too much. :)
 
Next time have someone cover the top of the carb with their hands and crank it until the suction pulls the fuel up in the line and fills the bowl. Do this with caution.
 
First took off pump to verify it works. It does as I thought.

I didn't a chance to get home yesterday and verify the checks in my post above. It was close, but not exactly correct. I knew I should not have gone off the top of my head. :bang:

I am sorry to cause an inconvenience by not originally posting the correct information to verify pump operation. Try checking the pump again, you never know.

I edited my post above with the proper procedure.

I went ahead and disconnected the large ventline going up to the gas cap and pressurized the system with some air cranked away I believe the second I hit the gas peddle that is what did it.

Exactly, did what?

I would think the other way to do this without pressurizing the system would maybe be to keep the gas peddle pressed down so that it can bleed off the air in the system instead of tapping it a bit.

If the fuel pump is working it should force the air out of the lines. When I changed out my tank, I changed out all my soft lines and checked all my hard lines. So, basically the whole system was full of air. It took a little bit to crank, but it started right up.

Are you using a non-vented gas cap? Is the tank venting through the fuel/vapor separator to the charcoal cannister?

Either your fuel pump isn't properly working (or not working at all), the tank isn't properly vented, or the lines are not correctly hooked up.

Also, try pouring fuel into the pump. If the pump is dry the check valve seals might not function properly. I would verify fuel pump operation, according to my "corrected" instructions above. If it checks out, verify the lines are correctly installed on the fuel pump, carb, and gas tank.

Once you have ruled out the pump and lines, remove your gas cap and try cranking.

If it doesn't start within 10 seconds, get out and check to see if fuel is getting into the fuel filter. You have a clear one installed, right? If you are getting fuel at that point, continue starting until it cranks. If it starts, you have a fuel venting problem. I would drill vent holes in your cap, ditch or replace the venting components, or desmog. The fuel system doesn't run very good in a vacuum.

You mentioned you had a poly tank, check the venting requirements on that too.

If you aren't getting fuel with the cap off, you need to ditch whatever pumps you have tried. Go to Napa and pick up part # NFP M60098 or go with a Toyota.

I hope this helps.

Good Luck!
 
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Pump worked fine when I pulled it off. Fuel squirted out. I had pressure on my finger as well. I have a brand new filler neck and cap assembly as well. It is vented. When I pressurized the system from the cap area. The cap was venting ever so slightly.

Basically once a line was opened at the carb. It started to flow.

Like I said all should be well once I check my float level again for the excess fuel.

Hopefuly ready to run tonight.
 

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