New FJ60 Owner + Stereo Install (1 Viewer)

[coultl]

First, thanks to everyone for the great content here. I’m a new FJ60 owner, but my background in mechanical engineering and automotive. It’s been really fun learning this truck through the factory manual and the mountains of info here. I’m the second owner of my 85’ and I feel a ton of responsibility to keep up the tradition of incredible care taken by the first owner.

I debated on keeping the factory radio in place because I love the look, but I ended putting in the most modest looking aftermarket head unit I could find that had the features I wanted (Sony DSX-GS80). I also replaced the door speaker with Polk 522s and that allowed me to keep the door panels stock. Maybe it’s the high power head unit, maybe it’s the speakers, but it sounds better than I expected.

I ended up designing and 3D printing a few key components and in case anyone is interested, those files are HERE. The mounting is super solid. I printed these in PETG which ‘should’ tolerate the temps in these locations, but would not work under the hood. Yes, I made this all more complicated than it needs to be. I have a long history of that...

 

[coultl]

The head unit is mounted using the factory mounting bolts and a 3D printed bracket. The bracket has a pinch bolt to hold the stereo in place. It took a few tries but it fits really well now.

I also printed a faceplate as I didn’t want to cut up the factory faceplate. This faceplate would probably work for other head units, but it might not. I didn’t sand the build lines out of mine because I think it looks better with them, but you could sand it smooth. I added a high clearance ("HC") version to the folder above which should work with more head units.

 

[coultl]

The speakers were straightforward, but I did need to print a 4mm spacer ring to keep the magnet form contacting the window. When mounted flush the window would still go down, but it ran against the magnet. I used one of the factory bolts along with three new screw locations. I also added some tape to the top speaker port to protect it from any falling water. Zero rattles at high volume! I’m surprised.

For wiring, I tapped 12V from one of the heavy gauge non-switched wires in the fuse box. I really didn’t want to run more wires under the hood. I did install an inline fuse right at the fuse box. The switched 12V is pulled from the factory radio 12V supply. For this (and the speaker connectors under the dash) I used spade connectors so I didn’t need to mess with the factory harness. I tapped into the cigarette lighter bulb for the head unit dimmer input. The speakers needed new wires from the under dash connectors to the head unit because the factory stereo harness has a common ground. The four wires that are not connected are for the rear speakers.

Since there are no rear speakers, I’m going to 3D print a small open air speaker box that will hold two Polk 522s. This will just sit in the back of the truck and be on a 4 pin connector so it can be removed when needed. I’ll update this thread once that’s done!

 

[Zack1978]

Great work! The install is perhaps the cleanest and most "factory" look that I have ever seen. If you were interested, I would think there would be a market for the mounting components.
Job well done!

 

[John McVicker]

Yes, well done. That was well thought out.

 

[LazarusTaxa]

Yeah man, I dont have access to a 3D printer, but would be really interested in buying a kit if it were available.

 

[tmxmotorsports]

I like the dash kit there is another member on here that makes the door speaker spacers 3d printed. I am oldschool car audio guy just did radio and speakers front and rear and made my own stuff but new tech is new tech and would make it way easier for alot of non savy nob stereo installers lol

 

[Chris8760]

Great work! The install is perhaps the cleanest and most "factory" look that I have ever seen. If you were interested, I would think there would be a market for the mounting components.
Job well done!

X2.... This is super clean! Well done!

 

[lcolon]

That is a great mounting bracket. Otherwise to do it right with metal, it almost requires pulling the dashpad out to build something to hold the radio. I agree there would be a market for this as it is hard otherwise to get a clean install.

 

[buoytech]

In case you were looking for a permanent spot for the rear speakers, there is plenty of room just behind the rear seat to get in some 6 1/2" speakers. Pop off the panels over the wheel arches and you'll see a large space at the back half of the arch. I've got a pair of 6 1/2" mounted there and they sound great. I mounted them onto the panels and there was plenty of room behind the magnets. Granted they sound better when the back seat is down but it is still a good mix with the door speakers.

 

[coultl]

Thanks for the feedback. I’d love to sell the brackets but I just don’t have the time. 3D ringed parts are getting really cheap so that’s a route if you need the bracket.

Quick update: Even thought the two were not touching, when rolled down the windows rattled on the speakers when the truck got bumped around. I increased the spacer to 6mm and added some foam rubber to the speaker magnetto keep it quiet if there was still some contact.

 

[Cincodemustache]

Thank you. I’m impatient and just found an online company to print the bracket and ship it to me. Just had to upload the file and they do the rest. Thanks for sharing your work!!

 

[coultl]

Thank you. I’m impatient and just found an online company to print the bracket and ship it to me. Just had to upload the file and they do the rest. Thanks for sharing your work!!

Nice! Let us know how it works out! The only watchout is to make sure the material you print it in can handle the heat. Many can, but PLA will not.

 

[Don Pedro]

Was the bracket sized to fit just that particular stereo unit or would it accept various units? Thanks, and nice work!

 

[coultl]

Was the bracket sized to fit just that particular stereo unit or would it accept various units? Thanks, and nice work!

The bracket should fit any standard sized head unit. The face place may work, with other stereos but I’m not sure.

The best print method is probably SLS in ABS. I made mine on a FDM printer in PETG.

 

[Cincodemustache]

Nice! Let us know how it works out! The only watchout is to make sure the material you print it in can handle the heat. Many can, but PLA will not.

Thanks again. I ordered it in a nylon plastic rated up to to 325 degrees, so I think that should be sufficient. If not, we should all be baking pies inside our dash...lol

 

[coultl]

Thanks again. I ordered it in a nylon plastic rated up to to 325 degrees, so I think that should be sufficient. If not, we should all be baking pies inside our dash...lol

Ha! Nice. Nylon is bomber. That’s the best option.

 

[TheNeek]

Nice. I really like the faceplate surround. Did you just paint the clear material?

 

[coultl]

Nice. I really like the faceplate surround. Did you just paint the clear material?

I did paint it because I wanted a matte black. I just used a rattle can of Rustoleum. The lines on the front of the face are a result of the 3D printing and are not part of the CAD model. Depending on the printing process and printing orientation those lines could not be produced.

 

[Zack1978]

Thank you. I’m impatient and just found an online company to print the bracket and ship it to me. Just had to upload the file and they do the rest. Thanks for sharing your work!!

Can you keep us updated on the online company that you used?