New FJ owner, No start (1 Viewer)

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Oct 12, 2019
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Location
Washington
Hi all

New owner of a 82 fj60 with 400k miles on it. Bought this for my wife as she's always wanted one in baby blue and the price was right. I'm used to working on old cummins motors so an inline 6 like the 2f is awesome from that standpoint.

It's been running great since I bought it, but recently decided it doesn't want to start. Since we've bought it, it never liked to keep idling if you put the clutch in from a high rpm (i.e. heading towards a stop light or off the highway) so I got past that with down shifting all the way down to 1st every time and feathering the throttle and clutch as needed. Of course, my wife does not like that very much as she isn't the strongest manual transmission driver.

Replaced all fuel lines, fuel filter, new gasket between carb and air cleaner (air box?) whatever you call it...took the fuel pump off and replaced the gasket as there was fuel leaking from there. The fuel pump tested fine via the block off test.

While replacing the fuel lines, I found all 3 of these hoses in the photo below to be rotted out and cracked. I've been searching for the last hour or so trying to figure out what they're for and if they are contributing to a vacuum leak that is causing a no start.

I would assume these are no longer available from Toyota.

I'd like to replace them regardless as I'm trying to keep everything as OEM as possible and keep this thing ticking for a few more years. We are planning on swapping in a 2.8 Cummins when funds allow :)

Any info on what they are, where I can find them and if it's something I should replace or ignore for the time being is appreciated.

Hints for our no start issue would be great as well, I think I'm on the right track though.
.

Thanks in advance!

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Bottom right hose goes to your air injection rail. Other two hoses also are part of air injection if i remember correctly as both all three go away when you do a desmog
 
I have the same stalling issue lately and I’m suspecting I either need a carb rebuild or I have a leaking intake manifold gasket. I’m pretty sure I have an exhaust manifold leak so this winter the whole top is coming apart.
 
Hey seth

Thanks for the reply. The carb was rebuilt by the previous owner, but that could be the case. I’ll look into the manifold as well.

I’m not sure if it has been de smogged or not. Is there an easy way to tell? I’m putting all the fuel lines back together today. Would having these disconnected prevent it from starting if it hasn’t been de smogged?
 
All the things you circled are from your emissions equipment which says you still have it all in place. If the truck drives fine but won’t idle it could be a vacuum leak and there are lots of places to leak from. You can use propane or a can of carb clean etc to spray around in the engine compartment to listen for a surge in idle speed that might indicate a leak. Also who knows if the previous person setup the carb correctly. You might research “lean drop method”.
 
You should also check your timing, valve clearance, cap, rotor, wires, plugs etc.
 
you said it is an 81 FJ60 in blue and the pic is a 40 series in yellow???
 
It’s an 82 and it is blue. I stole that photo off of google while searching for said hoses. It was just a good example to show what I’m looking for. I didn’t even notice it was a 40 at first glance
 
Adam or Tor from Torfab over in everett might be able to help diagnose over the phone.
 
The air pump hoses circled in red are NOT causing your problem. If you took off the air cleaner it should still idle w/out feathering the throttle.

This from the 2f emissions manual. If it runs good at speed w/power on the hills etc you can cross "low compression" off the list. I'd focus on vacuum leaks, carb tuning, and fuel cut solenoid first.
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I had that issue with mine, and discovered that it was a vacuum hose that had a tear in it. Changed the hose and the idle came back up. I'd change all vacuum hoses out
 
Order vacuum line in 4 different colors, so you can do each circuit in diff color, helps make sure you got it correct.

Try moving the long vac advance on the distributor from the inside diaphram, to the outside one. Plug original outside one w golf tee.
If that helps, check up the distrib tuning threads on this site.

and look at the stop pins and weights noted on this cats site.


As for no starts, i always tell folks to ground their coil hold down cages before anything else. they get dirty and rusted underneath, and will cause lots of probs.
 

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