New Engine? 2000 LC - HELP! (1 Viewer)

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No, you are not crazy about spending good money on a well-taken-care cruiser. It's hard to get anything similar for what you'll be spending to fix it. Now if it was a rust bucket, different story.
I just had a friend offer to buy it from me so they could change the motor haha.
Don't know if you're a Facebook member but this came up this morning. The seller deals in tons of LC parts.

175k miles for $1000 in CA.

facebook.com/groups/uzj100/permalink/1388537578666110/?mibextid=Nif5oz

Don't know if you're a Facebook member but this came up this morning. The seller deals in tons of LC parts.

175k miles for $1000 in CA.

facebook.com/groups/uzj100/permalink/1388537578666110/?mibextid=Nif5oz
That group looks fun too. I've decided to go with a remanufactured long block from "Engine Forge". They do about 50 LC motors each year. They don't need my core to ship so it will be here on Monday/Tuesday. It's an original block with all new Toyota OEM parts except for Ajusa gaskets, Topline bearings, and Hastings rings. 2 year unlimited miles warranty. Thanks all for the recommendations and advice. I will report back!
 
I just had a friend offer to buy it from me so they could change the motor haha.



That group looks fun too. I've decided to go with a remanufactured long block from "Engine Forge". They do about 50 LC motors each year. They don't need my core to ship so it will be here on Monday/Tuesday. It's an original block with all new Toyota OEM parts except for Ajusa gaskets, Topline bearings, and Hastings rings. 2 year unlimited miles warranty. Thanks all for the recommendations and advice. I will report back!
Curious what the Engine Forge charged - none are listed on their website.
Hope the install went well!
Kevin.
 
I just had a friend offer to buy it from me so they could change the motor haha.



That group looks fun too. I've decided to go with a remanufactured long block from "Engine Forge". They do about 50 LC motors each year. They don't need my core to ship so it will be here on Monday/Tuesday. It's an original block with all new Toyota OEM parts except for Ajusa gaskets, Topline bearings, and Hastings rings. 2 year unlimited miles warranty. Thanks all for the recommendations and advice. I will report back!
Hope that everything went well. Any updates?
 
Curious what the Engine Forge charged - none are listed on their website.
Hope the install went well!
Kevin.
It was $3950 not including $500 ship including core ship back. There was also a $650 core charge deposit I should receive. No tax. However, it shipped with an oil pump not compatible with my VIN so there has been significant additional labor involved to get that replaced. They say their warranty does not cover labor so we will see what happens with me trying to get reimbursed. It will be costly. They also shipped it with a gasket set of the brand "evergreen" instead of their stated Ajusa so that cost me an additional $350 to do Toyota OEM. Other stories to tell, but I'm still waiting for my LC! It should be ready tomorrow but I'm out of town of course...
 
Hope that everything went well. Any updates?
It's turned into a bit of a saga, for me at least. I am still out of my LC. After toiling for a week or so while the car was at Toyota of Dallas, I finally pulled the trigger. The engine arrived fairly quickly. Maybe 4 days after order? Then a week delay due to backorder of a gasket set I should not have had to purchase. Another week of trying to find a replacement of my timing belt sprocket that was chipped. They are supposedly saving if for me for a paper weight. Along with a host of hoses and other minor things, they are changing the motor mounts and the fuse box that I had already and planned to do myself. Everything else from my engine is good to go. I had the shift knob and center console armrest re-covered and plan to do the front seats as well. Toyota of Dallas has been great to work with even though it's taking so long! Alec Raetz is foreman I'm working with and he's all over it and seeming to have a good time as well so that's good. They are good guys. It's going to cost a couple thousand more than I had anticipated, but hopefully not more than what my outside estimate was to begin with before working the costs down as much as I could. They showed me under the intake manifold where a squirrel had been putting acorns! It was so full the starter was half covered. I don't get it because the car stays in the garage most of the time. Anyway, I will report back soon!

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It's turned into a bit of a saga, for me at least. I am still out of my LC. After toiling for a week or so while the car was at Toyota of Dallas, I finally pulled the trigger. The engine arrived fairly quickly. Maybe 4 days after order? Then a week delay due to backorder of a gasket set I should not have had to purchase. Another week of trying to find a replacement of my timing belt sprocket that was chipped. They are supposedly saving if for me for a paper weight. Along with a host of hoses and other minor things, they are changing the motor mounts and the fuse box that I had already and planned to do myself. Everything else from my engine is good to go. I had the shift knob and center console armrest re-covered and plan to do the front seats as well. Toyota of Dallas has been great to work with even though it's taking so long! Alec Raetz is foreman I'm working with and he's all over it and seeming to have a good time as well so that's good. They are good guys. It's going to cost a couple thousand more than I had anticipated, but hopefully not more than what my outside estimate was to begin with before working the costs down as much as I could. I will report back soon!

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Thanks FrankieJoe! I believe a compression test was done at Toyota, but I need to ask. I don't feel like I could do this "myself" even though I have done a few things like the starter and CV boots and a few other things. Time would be my hindrance. I have 2 little ones that I am happy to spend most of my free time with lately. I think I'd like to leave this to the pros since it is my DD. I wouldn't go for a rebuilt engine. I'm only considering the remanufactured long block swap or a used full swap. In looking for a used engine from a reseller, I can only find ones that have "approximate" mileage tested, etc. and no records or provenance etc. So that's why I'm considering the extra $2K-$3K for the reman using my engine peripherals. I read your thread and someone said they had warped heads from running too hot. Mine was overheating a few years ago and Sewell fixed it, but I can't remember what the issue was. I need to check the records. I wonder if that could be the cause. I'm going to look at the service records tomorrow. Thanks again.


Thanks awesomeissquid! There isn't any visible issue and the spark plugs are all good and were replaced in 2019 as was the coil on #7, which caught my eye since it is #7 that is the issue 3 years later. The remanufactured engine from Engine Forge would not be my core, but from another, but I believe they are OEM and I would hope/think it would be Japanese. I will ask. It comes with some sort of 3 year warranty. I too think that if I have Toyota do it, I'd have a good story if I were to sell it in 3-4 years. Good thinking on selling it right after luckily I wouldn't plan on that since I'm not ready to give this baby up. If I can get an answer on what the actual failure is. Cheers.


Trunk: I seem to not be enough of a squeaky wheel here as I have asked, but not gotten an answer, but I will press tomorrow! Thanks
Sorry, I'm joining late. I see you're well on the way to getting back on the road, and I'm happy for you.

Perhaps I missed some key info in this thread. But I am very interested as to a few key points:

3 years ago (2019) when spark plugs and #7 coil replace. Was there other work done, at that time in 2019. Like a thread repair for number #7 spark plug, which should be on that work order/bill?

Were you given specific data and or pictures, of current #7 cylinder? Which is why they "all" recommended engine replacement!
 
Sorry, I'm joining late. I see you're well on the way to getting back on the road, and I'm happy for you.

Perhaps I missed some key info in this thread. But I am very interested as to a few key points:

3 years ago (2019) when spark plugs and #7 coil replace. Was there other work done, at that time in 2019. Like a thread repair for number #7 spark plug, which should be on that work order/bill?

Were you given specific data and or pictures, of current #7 cylinder? Which is why they "all" recommended engine replacement!
Hi 2001LC. Thanks for the message. On the 2019 work, there was no other work or condition noted. I was not given or shown any pictures from any diagnosis, but I was verbally told the compression differences between cylinders and that #7 had almost none. I do not remember the numbers. It was noisy and the engine was shuddering at that point when I finally decided to bring it in. I visited the car today and they started it up. I can't believe how smooth and quiet it is running now; it's incredible. They broke the fan shroud and somehow lost the dipstick so they're waiting on that to give it back to me hopefully tomorrow.
 
Hi 2001LC. Thanks for the message. On the 2019 work, there was no other work or condition noted. I was not given or shown any pictures from any diagnosis, but I was verbally told the compression differences between cylinders and that #7 had almost none. I do not remember the numbers. It was noisy and the engine was shuddering at that point when I finally decided to bring it in. I visited the car today and they started it up. I can't believe how smooth and quiet it is running now; it's incredible. They broke the fan shroud and somehow lost the dipstick so they're waiting on that to give it back to me hopefully tomorrow.
Having same cylinder go bad now. I'm surprised the 2019 work order, did not state #7 time-Sert, helicoil or thread repair.

Happy to see they've you sorted out.
 
Hi all, I have a similar story to share. 2000 LC with 235k miles. I've been investigating the low fuel economy after CATs were stolen and replaced with non-OEM. Long story short, why would I go from 12-14MPG down to 9MPG? I finally took it to a mechanic for a compression test, and they measured 110-90 PSI in all 8 cylinders and tell me my engine is worn out and needs a new one (cheaper than a rebuild). I am having a really hard time believing a Toyota engine would wear out with regular maintenance, etc. I am at a cross roads and do not know what route to go until I get a quote. Question for the group, the cruiser drives fine. A little under powered from what I recall over 10 years ago, but honestly, it starts and runs without any vibration. How long would I be able to drive as is without engine replacement with compression that low in the cylinders? Note, spec is ~190-210PSI. Thanks in advance.
 
Hi all, I have a similar story to share. 2000 LC with 235k miles. I've been investigating the low fuel economy after CATs were stolen and replaced with non-OEM. Long story short, why would I go from 12-14MPG down to 9MPG? I finally took it to a mechanic for a compression test, and they measured 110-90 PSI in all 8 cylinders and tell me my engine is worn out and needs a new one (cheaper than a rebuild). I am having a really hard time believing a Toyota engine would wear out with regular maintenance, etc. I am at a cross roads and do not know what route to go until I get a quote. Question for the group, the cruiser drives fine. A little under powered from what I recall over 10 years ago, but honestly, it starts and runs without any vibration. How long would I be able to drive as is without engine replacement with compression that low in the cylinders? Note, spec is ~190-210PSI. Thanks in advance.

I would probably want a second set of eyes doing a compression test. I would also want them to do it dry and wet to see if it improves. What brand of cats were used?

Since you are in the Bay, what mechanic did you take it to? Could always try one of the cruiser specialty shops in the area if you don't have luck investigating yourself.
 
Definitely get a 2nd opinion on that compression test. Compression should be 192PSI or higher, with a minimum of 142.

I can't imagine all 8 running at half that.
 
Hi all, I have a similar story to share. 2000 LC with 235k miles. I've been investigating the low fuel economy after CATs were stolen and replaced with non-OEM. Long story short, why would I go from 12-14MPG down to 9MPG? I finally took it to a mechanic for a compression test, and they measured 110-90 PSI in all 8 cylinders and tell me my engine is worn out and needs a new one (cheaper than a rebuild). I am having a really hard time believing a Toyota engine would wear out with regular maintenance, etc. I am at a cross roads and do not know what route to go until I get a quote. Question for the group, the cruiser drives fine. A little under powered from what I recall over 10 years ago, but honestly, it starts and runs without any vibration. How long would I be able to drive as is without engine replacement with compression that low in the cylinders? Note, spec is ~190-210PSI. Thanks in advance.
90-110 PSI is unusual reading, unless done on a cold engine and or RPM below 250 (weak battery). Also, if throttle body butterfly not complete open, we may get a reading 5 to 10PSI lower than actual. Below 145PSI or difference between cylinders of 14PSI is failing.

Replacing CAT's would not suddenly drop compression, resulting in loss of MPG. If compression was that bad, you'd likely already have had CAT DTC (CEL).

Issue with o2's, vacuum and or MAF sensor could reduce MPG.

I agree get a second opinion. This time make sure done by the book. Have any low cylinder wet compression tested, also. Get the numbers of each cylinder PSI. You can further delineate by scoping (bore scope) any low PSI cylinders.
 
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