New disk brake swap wont work correctly!

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May 24, 2010
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So, first off, I am a new member, yay! Im a forum addict, went from car forum to car forum. Now that I have started to work on my 8 year old project, some problems have come up. I own a 68fj40, sbc327, and a list of other mods. I recently installed a 79-85 minitruck booster with a 90 4runner MC. I believe its a 15/16 bore. Brand new lines to the front disk calipers (70's fj40 calipers). Brand new lines to the rear (monte carlo gm calipers.) And I have also installed an ssbc proportioning valve. I did however, not notice any residual valve on this 90 MC, Im not going through a dist block, just one line for the rear, and one for the front, coming out of the MC. So I bled, bled and bled. With the back brakes cut off (with valve), I get drag on the back (small amount). The pedal feels rock hard, and front brakes work good. When I slowly open the valve to allow more pressure, At a certain point, it goes from a rock hard pedal, to a spongy soft to the floor pedal. Now the rear brakes work, OK, but the pedal goes to the floor. The way I have the brake pedal setup, is, the MC bottoms out on rod travel before the pedal does. PLENTY of travel. I just pulled the ssbc, and am wondering if its faulty, or im missing something. I'm ready to drive my rig, and this is holding me back. Thanks for any help!!!
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i thought you were supposed to remove the residual pressure valve. the front disks dont need them.??

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Every disc brake conversion I have heard of uses a 2# residual valve w/ the GM calipers. I have one and the pads stay close to the rotor and there is a firm pedal. my 0.02 Good Luck.

Maybe I'll look into this. Did it go after the proportioning valve, or before?
 
Isn't the bleed screw supposed to be up, not down? Seems like it'd be hard to fully bleed with the screw in the down position.
 
Isn't the bleed screw supposed to be up, not down? Seems like it'd be hard to fully bleed with the screw in the down position.

Houston....We have a problem. I didn't even think about that, I wonder if that's my issue. This is my first complete brake system overhaul. That would be an easy fix.
 
Isn't the bleed screw supposed to be up, not down? Seems like it'd be hard to fully bleed with the screw in the down position.

X2 That was my first thought.
 
Steve, did you intend a link here?

Was wonderin about that.. Thanks for the help guys, Im going to try to get them swapped soon. Hopefully that fixes it.
 
Was wonderin about that.. Thanks for the help guys, Im going to try to get them swapped soon. Hopefully that fixes it.

Post up the results. Let us know what solves the problem.
 
Steve, would you agree that the bleed screw position is a problem?
 
Don't feel bad, I did the same thing as I was in such a hurry to get my 40 on the road.
 
Brakes

Yes his air bubble is at the top of the brake cyclinder. We he shuts the valve to the rear brake he gets his pedal back because it is isolated from the system. He opens it up and gets the spongy feeling from all the air trapped in the rear brakes.

Wes
 
thanks so much for the help. Im going to TRY to get out there tonight to swap them. I'm supposed to be packing for a camping trip this weekend.....I have caught myself doing worse. I honestly didnt even consider the fact. Im hoping this makes a massive difference, cause right now, Im ready to roll!
 
discs

I think I would bench bleed the MC. It was smart that you put an adjustable proportioning valve. Dont let anyone tell you that you dont need it. I am ussuming that you put the valve to the rear brakes. I went the JTOUTFITTERS way front and back.

I wanted to test the propo valve and got up to 35mph and locked-up up. The back end started to spin to the front. Easy fit with that valve. I am assuming that you put the propo valve on the back discs. But I am not sure I read that you have discs all the way around. Hope you get it figured out freind. Jeff
 

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