New alternator, 60 won’t stay on at idle (1 Viewer)

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I don't see a VR on that alternator. Image of mine with the rectangular VR on it:

battery-terminal2-jpg.1882506
 
So here’s the update. It looks like I’m finally going to be able to close the loop on this one! I took @duncanrm advice and studied more about alternators than I thought I could.

Did you know that most alternators don’t just start producing power when the belt is running? I didn’t but now I do! That connection with the IG on the back of the alternator is for when you turn your ignition on it turns on the alternator.

What I learned is my alternator was not turning on and that is why I wasn’t getting the alternator charging my battery.
 
So I pulled a 10A fuse from a headlight and plugged it in to the engine slot. Wouldn’t you know it that I got 13.5 V at my battery. That was it!

I couldn’t believe it! And my truck run smooth again. Makes total sense now!! Always something simple right in front of me.

My wife just happened to capture my happy dance as I got the charge reading. Had to share!

Thank you for everyone’s help! I’m feeling like this is my lucky day. Makes me believe that my Georgia Dawgs are going to win another National Championship tonight!! Go DAWGS!

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Hahah gold, love the happy dance photo! Well done!
 
A test lamp (with an incandescent bulb) is great for testing fuses in place.. it should be your go-to tool in almost every fault finding exercise on an old Landcruiser that doesnt involve determining a specific voltage or measuring current.

Digital meters can provide tremendously misleading results when presented with a high impedance voltage source - they'll lead you down a path of believing you have 12V+ or an Earth when you really don't. A test lamp will never lead you astray.
 
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