New AC belt won't go on. (1 Viewer)

[Rusty Marlin]

97 LX450
Bought a new belt, Mitsibishi Toyota 99332-10910-83, its wider across the V than the aftermarket one than came out, so it sits higher in the sheaves.
Its the same length as the old one when pulled over a pair of 3" pipes, its just wider.
This thing will not go on. Looked in the FMS, there doesn't appear to be a pivot bolt like the alternator, Correct?
The tension idler is not the problem.
Am I just a candy a$$ and I need to apply more brute force and ignorance? Or am I missing something?

 

[NLXTACY]

It’s supposed to be wider. It’s not supposed to sit deep in the groove. The idler bolt IS the lock. The adjuster is on the side of the idler.

 

[Irish Reiver]

If my memory serves me right, you need to pull the skid plate from the bottom so you can access the tensioner bolt which is part of the idler pully.

 

[ceylonfj40nut]

It’s supposed to be wider. It’s not supposed to sit deep in the groove. The idler bolt IS the lock. The adjuster is on the side of the idler.

^^^ per FSM pic.

 

[NLXTACY]

If my memory serves me right, you need to pull the skid plate from the bottom so you can access the tensioner bolt which is part of the idler pully.

possible from top but just sucks

 

[george_tlc]

It’s supposed to be wider. It’s not supposed to sit deep in the groove. The idler bolt IS the lock. The adjuster is on the side of the idler.

Hmmm. First the alternator lock & adjuster bolt and now this.

Time for another step by step Maybe time for a basic service cheat sheet booklet - laminated of course.

cheers,
george.

 

[96FZJ80]

Hmmm. First the alternator lock & adjuster bolt and now this.

Time for another step by step Maybe time for a basic service cheat sheet booklet - laminated of course.

cheers,
george.

With tips and tricks. I'd buy that.

 

[NLXTACY]

Hmmm. First the alternator lock & adjuster bolt and now this.

Time for another step by step Maybe time for a basic service cheat sheet booklet - laminated of course.

cheers,
george.

this is a tiny hint at the questions I get all day everyday. It’s very common. But yes, I’ve been considering doing exactly what you suggested

 

[Rusty Marlin]

All right then, more brute force and ignorance it is....

The tension pulley is put of the way, so far in fact its touching the crank pulley. As said above, the tension pulley is not the problem.
The skid plate is out, becuase its so much easier to access the AC stuff without in the way.

 

[maxamillion2345]

Ive done the AC belt a couple times on the 1fz, its a tight fit. Even with the idler pulley rammed all the way in. It takes some finesse and then maybe some brute force.

 

[NLXTACY]

 

[flintknapper]

If my memory serves me right, you need to pull the skid plate from the bottom so you can access the tensioner bolt which is part of the idler pully.

^^^^
Correct, then loosen the lock bolt (center of pulley, 14mm head). Loosen/adjust tensioner bolt (at bracket, also 14mm) so that you can slip the belt on. Then tighten belt via tensioner bolt. Once you have tightened the belt, then tighten the lock bolt (center of pulley). Couldn't be easier. Check tension after a few days of running. With a new belt the pulley should be situated about in the center of the tensioning bracket.

 

[cvenom96]

I've changed mine multiple times and every time I've basically had to wedge it on then use a ratchet to turn the crank to get it the rest of the way on. I've run the adjuster/pulley up as far as it will go and this is still how it goes. Whatever. It's on there.

 

[Rusty Marlin]

That's the direction I was going to go, but I've never had to force anything on this truck before. Thank you. It just seemed a little extreme.

 

[graham5david]

It is a tight fit. Seems too tight but it will go.