- Thread starter
- #21
New 80 owner, idle stumble (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter Tireguy87
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
Need a little more info on replacement engine. Does the current 1fz have the secondary air injection from the 94 engine? Are you running a vacuum fuel filter with 1 port or 2? Another question, if you unplug the 3 pin alternator connector, does the idle come up? The new vane air flow meter is it a known good OEM or a so called Remanufactured or god forbid a chinesium knock off?
- Thread starter
- #23
Are you referring to the PAIR system on the ‘94? All that has been deleted. I have not tried unplugging the alternator connector but I will and report back. The replacement AFM was supposedly good and is a used OEM part. But I’ve had 2 people now tell me to try another one. Guess I’m on the hunt for one to try out.
Vacuum fuel filter? It’s the factory filter under the intake.
Yes, Im referring to PAIR. Guessing you used the exhaust manifolds from the donor engine in lieu of block off plates. Vacuum fuel/gas filter screws into the top of the intake (next to PCV hose nipple) and has a hose that goes to the fuel rail. 93-94 has 2 hoses whereas 95-97 has only one. Did you use the intake manifold from the donor(97) or the original(94) engine?
Gas vacuum filter Location 95-97 version, 93-94 same location but has 2 hoses going to it.
- Thread starter
- #25
Now I’m following. I forgot that Toyota calls that a gas filter. I’m running the 2 port from the ‘94 with one port blocked off. Mainly because I left a wrench laying on top of the manifold then closed the hood. Which broke the single port one from the ‘97. I’m running the ‘94 exhaust manifolds and I moved the o2 sensors into the PAIR valve holes. My down pipe was rotten so I replaced with a Magnaflow unit that many here have used. It only has 1 o2 sensor port so I blocked it off and moved them to the manifolds after talking to a few folks who had done that.
Any vacuum leaks at the vsv valves, lines under the intake? Have you unplugged the alternator connector yet?
Will have to wait till tomorrow afternoon when I can get under the hood of my 94 beater 80 to see the vacuum diagram as it’s original engine has too been replaced with one from a 97. The additional port is for the PAIR at the end of the line but I can’t remember what is in between.
Will have to wait till tomorrow afternoon when I can get under the hood of my 94 beater 80 to see the vacuum diagram as it’s original engine has too been replaced with one from a 97. The additional port is for the PAIR at the end of the line but I can’t remember what is in between.
Hi, So did you drop the old gas out? Did you check the fuel pump and sock ? Also try non-ethonol gas. Mike
- Thread starter
- #28
I currently have all the vsv’s unhooked and ports plugged. I did this temporarily to eliminate the chance of a vacuum leak there. Engine reacts the same way with them hooked up or unhooked. I see where some guys have eliminated them permanently. Not sure if that’s the route I’ll take. I haven’t unhooked the alternator yet. I was in for the evening.
- Thread starter
- #29
Drained and refilled with 12 gallons of non ethanol. Fuel pump and sock are both new.
The original fuel filter been replaced? Mike
- Thread starter
- #31
Tried unplugging the alternator at idle. Didn’t change anything. I pulled the top cover off of the AFM and cleaned it with MAF sensor cleaner. It’s not falling on its face under throttle and in gear now like it was. Cold start did almost the same thing as usual but didn’t quite die after cleaning this. It caught itself right before it died and idled back up. It then hunted for idle until it got warm. This was a used AFM and someone has removed the cap that covers the adjustment screw. Is there a standard adjustment on these things? Like 1&1/4 turns out, 2 turns, etc? I’m sure Mr T put that cap over the screw for a reason. He never intended for it to be adjusted.
Hi, Have you pulled the codes? Mike
- Thread starter
- #33
No codes. Fuel filter is new. The list of things I’ve done and parts that have been changed is all on page 1.
- Thread starter
- #34
So I pulled my VFM to check E2 & VS pins while opening the plate. Ohm values all over the map as the plate is opened. 2600 when closed. Jumps to 3000 as I open it, then back to 2700, then up to 5800, back to 2700, and when fully open only 780. According to the FSM, I think it’s safe to say that this VFM needs to be replaced. Should be a smooth increase across the plate instead of sporadic. @offr0adlim0
Good deal. Now the real fun starts. Hunting down a part that was only used for 2 years on a 1fzfe in the states.
- Thread starter
- #36
Yeah I spent a little time on that this afternoon. Not gonna be fun. Reman supply is dried up, China knockoff looks sketchy at best, and unknown condition used units seem to be sparse and higher than pterodactyl tits when you do find one.
Any tips to cleaning the IAC. Pulled mine and wasn’t sure what to look for. Luckily years ago I replaced the hardware with cap screws. I wonder if the O-ring gets old and fails which makes the problem worse.
I don't have any tips, as I have not done mine. All I can offer is to search in here, as I know others have done it and posted about it.
ppc
M Go Blue
The IAC itself normally does not require cleaning. It is the internal passages within the upper intake manifold that the IAC modulates that can be plugged that need to be cleaned.
Last edited:
