New 80 owner, idle stumble (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Apr 21, 2011
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173
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Location
Batesville, Arkansas
Hey guys. I’ve owned a 40 and a 100 for a while now and recently picked up my first 80. It was a little bit of a basket case mechanically, but the body and interior are clean for a 320,000 mile truck. Truck is a ‘94, unlocked, cloth, ABS, full float rear.

The original 1fz to the truck had already blown 1 head gasket and I was told that the current one was blown (which makes #2). The guy I bought it from had sourced a 150k mile 1fz out of a ‘97 to swap in. He chose this route due to high mileage on the current engine and its current issues. Soon after getting the replacement engine, he decided it was more than he could take on and that’s where I came in. There’s a sucker born every day. I picked it up cheap and knew I was capable of the swap.

Fast forward from August until now. The donor engine is in. I did a host of PM stuff to it while it was out. Both oil pans resealed and EGR completely removed and blocked off. I tracked down some service history on the donor and it had recently had the oil pump o-ring and crank seal done. The truck it was in was wrecked and totaled but had been dealer maintained for its 150k life.

Im trying not to ramble too much but I want to use this thread to diagnose my current issue as well as document what’s already been replaced.

When I start the truck up, it goes into high idle warm up like normal and runs fine there. When the RPMs drop to normal idle (~650), it starts to stumble and the RPMs continue to drop until it tries to die. I can then bump the pedal and it’ll shoot back up to high idle before settling back to normal idle and trying to die again. I go through this sequence a few times as the truck warms up and it’ll eventually hold 650 or so RPMs but there’s still a noticeable stumble. You can see it on the tach and hear it at the tailpipe. Shift into gear and it’ll try to die. I can keep it running by mashing the pedal and it’ll eventually take off. Driving down the road it seems to run and shift out fine. Come to a stop sign and the stumble is back.

Things I’ve done. Some of which were done before first start up of donor prior to my knowledge of this issue:
All new fluids
New plugs
New cap, rotor
Dizzy o ring
All vacuum lines replaced
New PCV valve, grommet, hose
EGR blocked at head and intake
New intake tube
Used AFM/Mass air flow sensor. I tried to clean the original and broke the wires trying to remove the plug.
IAC valve cleaned and throttle body cleaned.
New TB gasket
New fuel filter

I inspected the wiring at the EGR and rewrapped it while I had everything out. Wires looked fine. I have run a thermometer across all the exhaust manifold tubes while idling and they all read pretty much the same temp. So I don’t think it’s a stuck injector. I was of the belief that this was a smooth running donor so I think it’s something on the truck side of things. I haven’t checked fuel pressure and I have no idea what the history of the fuel pump is.

I know this is a long post. Hopefully some of y’all will take the time to read it and provide feedback. Thanks

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I will be no help. But that is a nice truck, looks great. I’m sure it’s probably one of those small things that’s hard to track down but easy to fix.
 
when you deleted the EGR did you do the resister mod ?
did you shunt the E1 and TE1 connector in the black diag box and check/set timing.
 
Do you have good gas, no water contamination.

Good point. Truck had a quarter tank when I got it. But best I can tell, the head gasket blew last October. So I’m not sure how old that quarter tank may be.

when you deleted the EGR did you do the resister mod ?

did you shunt the E1 and TE1 connector in the black diag box and check/set timing.

I have a resistor on the way, but my understanding is that EGR plays no roll at idle?
Yes timing has been checked. I checked it when I did the dizzy o ring.
 
Our 94 got water in the gas or something. It ran terrible, no power. Put a bottle of heet in and it really helped.
 
Did you have the injectors rebuilt?

Could be variances in old worn injectors.

Otherwise I was going to say IAC valve but you already went through that.
 
Did you have the injectors rebuilt?

Could be variances in old worn injectors.

Otherwise I was going to say IAC valve but you already went through that.

No I haven’t had them rebuilt. I just put new o rings and cushions under them while the engine was out.
 
I'd recheck for vacuum leaks in all possible places. You may have luck with the brake/carb clean spray while running technique or may want to try low pressure and then soap spray/bubble check, etc.
 
Our 94 got water in the gas or something. It ran terrible, no power. Put a bottle of heet in and it really helped.
Are you running the 94 ecu. If so the egr doesn't need a resistor to delete. Just jump the wires at the plug. Or you can clip the plug off and wire the 2 wires together.
 
my take is a vacuum leak or iac. you get and check engine light?

IAC has been cleaned and reinstalled. No change. Still no CEL after 20+ miles of driving and numerous on/off cycles. I’d like to think vacuum leak too. But I’ve checked, rechecked, and rechecked. All vacuum lines are new and in their appropriate places.
 
IAC has been cleaned and reinstalled. No change. Still no CEL after 20+ miles of driving and numerous on/off cycles. I’d like to think vacuum leak too. But I’ve checked, rechecked, and rechecked. All vacuum lines are new and in their appropriate places.
How about your oil fill cap seal?
Spark plug tube seals?
Valve cover gasket?

All of those will also create vacuum leaks if not intact.
 
How about your oil fill cap seal?
Spark plug tube seals?
Valve cover gasket?

All of those will also create vacuum leaks if not intact.

All of them have been replaced.

Bumping this back up. I took a break from this project out of frustration. Back on it now. First start up of the day, fires up to 1200rpm then dies. Immediately try to start it back up and it’ll start and run but rough. Gets better as it warms up. Try to put it in gear and give it throttle before it’s good and warm, and it stumbles/shutters/cuts out.

Injectors rebuilt since my last post. Didn’t change a thing. Alternator brushes replaced. Compression is 180 across the board. Added new OEM plug wires too.

Should I try replacing the IAC?
 
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Don't know if it is worth a damn coming from a newbie like me, but my truck after sitting for three months was doing exactly what you describe and it had just enough battery to start but barely ran afterwards. A new battery and a cleaned IAC, and boom problem solved. So maybe battery?
 
Don't know if it is worth a damn coming from a newbie like me, but my truck after sitting for three months was doing exactly what you describe and it had just enough battery to start but barely ran afterwards. A new battery and a cleaned IAC, and boom problem solved. So maybe battery?

Brand new AGM battery in place. Alternator is charging
 
Based on your description, I would check in the following order:
I know you've already done some of this.

IAC Valve clean / replace
MAF
Wiring Harness by EGR

Unfortunately, you have already touched and messed with so many things, you're having some unknown conditions and you feel like you've already done it all.
Try to get out of your own head an look at each one from a new aspect as if you are helping a friend and have never been exposed to it. Outside the box.

Make sure you have the AC button shut off.
Make sure all your ground cables are installed. There are at least (6) in the engine compartment.

Good Luck!
 
Based on your description, I would check in the following order:
I know you've already done some of this.

IAC Valve clean / replace
MAF
Wiring Harness by EGR

Unfortunately, you have already touched and messed with so many things, you're having some unknown conditions and you feel like you've already done it all.
Try to get out of your own head an look at each one from a new aspect as if you are helping a friend and have never been exposed to it. Outside the box.

Make sure you have the AC button shut off.
Make sure all your ground cables are installed. There are at least (6) in the engine compartment.

Good Luck!

Thanks. This has been a trying experience for sure.

I actually pulled the IAC 2 days ago to re-inspect. I have untaped the harness around where the egr was twice now. I see no issues. I do have a used harness that just needs injector clips. That’s my last resort but I’m quickly getting there.
 

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