Builds My new 60 rebuild thread (2 Viewers)

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The console lid was pretty sunfaded and deteriorated.

So I sanded it, then used a heat gun to pull out some color. Afterward I used some plastic polish on it.

Looks a bit better.

That being said, does anyone have a spare lid they want to sell?
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I scored a nice passenger seat from @3_puppies

The plan is to use these to redo my ripped up driver seat.

They cleaned up well with a bit of Dawn and a soft bristle brush.
I followed up with a few passes of the Oxy carpet cleaner I used earlier in the thread.
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I also picked up some seat foam from @Skreddy
I guess I'll use the best foam out of the two pair.
 
My driver seat bottom has been tore up since I got this 60. It bugs me everyday so I finally got around to repairing it...
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I installed a good passenger seat foam and cover from a passenger seat. Thanks @3_puppies
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I also installed some good front seatbelt receivers. The plugs are different as they are from a diesel and earlier model year. I just had to de-pin and swap the plugs over from my old receivers. Thanks @offkilter
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Nice transformation, Sam ! Great work and glad those seatbelt receivers were helpful.
 
Can you tell me the rear wiper arm replacement part # and the length of the wiper blade?
 
So a simple coolant hose replacement has morphed into a coolant system refresh.

Upon removing some of the easier to get to hoses in the engine bay I found some of the hard lines nearly clogged with a lot of rust.
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Some of the hard line ends were rusted through in places. So I just cut off the ends and used a Lennox wedge flaring tool from Lowe's to flare out the ends
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Not sure what to do about the pitting here.
I'm thinking either; braise with a solder, fill OR fill with JB Weld Metal then sand/prime and paint the hardline ends smooth.

What is the general consensus on these types of repairs?

There is limited info on mud about this type of repair approach.
 
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I got the firewall coolant hardline off thanks to this post from @4runner2FJ60
Wow! What a PITA to get that pipe off.
Just an update from the weekend . I like challenges and took it Saturday morning. Some of the most serious on top of engine hotrod yoga, but I got the last rear heater pipe off at the firewall and was able to get all the bolts back in their holes. I loosened the top two heat shield bolts and pulled the heat shield out and towards the drivers fender. There was enough room to get a ratcheting box end in there. It was a total PITA but for anyone wanting to do the full delete it can be done. If you run a piece of new hose from the firewall directly to the T pipe off the radiator you have made 2 connections instead of the 16 the rear heater requires. My heater looked hardly used in new dusty shape. I capped the two holes in the floor with 1" hole grommets from amazon.
A big shout out to @ToyotaMatt for assisting with the non-rear heater riser pipe off the head. Happy how this turned out and evolved into more repairs while the radiator is drained. I drained it from the engine, then cut the two small hoses at the rear heater and drained at least 3 gallons with those. The last gallon or so was in the bottom of the radiator. I also got 5/8" Gates green stripe at Oreily's for the direct route. It is about twice the wall thickness as their standard saftey stripe line heater hose. Nice stuff.

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It was really rusty inside but the ends don't look too bad.
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They look about the same as the rear heater lines before my JB Weld Steel treatment. Just some primer and paint on the rear heater lines and they should be ready to reinstall.
This thing will need some serious flushing once it's all buttoned up.
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Finally had a chance to finish these rear heater coolant pipes up today. Another layer of JB Weld Steel in a few low spots and some paint.

I also flushed & reversed flushed the rear heater and heater core.

I'll flush the block and add a new water pump with some fresh Toyota Red.
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New water pump and upgraded block drain installed. Surprisingly the drain port was not blocked.
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The block face cleaned up pretty well but there was a bit of residual milk at the pump port. No other evidence of oil. I am hoping it's residual from a former head gasket failure/ replacement. The radiator, pump and fan clutch had been replaced at some point previously.

@CRZR45 how did the coolant look when you changed it before the sale?
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