Keeping with TJ's suggestion, that's how far I advanced the timing, around 5 degrees. It ran a lot smoother.
Builds A New 55 Owner Intro (cgn1976 thread) (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter Cgn1976
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PabloCruise
SILVER Star
Mo' powah too!
- Thread starter
- #103
Back in business! So I'm clearly just an idiot! Haha. Had the 3rd and 6th plug wires flipped on the cap. Quick swap, purring! Couch surfing with a hang over today gave me time to look at the pictures I took before I did anything!
Gonna advance timing after I feel a little better!
bobm
WTF, WTF, WTF!!!!
Beer 
get rid of dat hangover 
get rid of dat hangover 
RUSH55
SILVER Star
Not a hangover then, a “hang-on”.
bobm
WTF, WTF, WTF!!!!
Or a Keep going 
- Thread starter
- #107
Well, my valve cover is leaking now. I pulled it to located the right TDC for the dizzy and the gasket was stretched out and oily. Can't get it to fit right and seal now. Got a new one coming in a few days. I've seen lots of different conflicting info about cork gasket valve cover installs and am curious what everyone here does. Pretty sure my valve cover isnt original. See pic. Prior gasket was cork and looks like there may have been a little seal on the head. Obviously I'll clean it up real good, but curious about rtv, spray adhesive on the cover side only, even saw vasoline on the gasket? Also, is there a torque spec and pattern for the 4 bolts? Thx
Thx in advance
Thx in advance
- Thread starter
- #108
Thanks for the advice. I did flush it and put new coolant in there. No burnt oolant smell so far! I think my gas smell was mostly I was running rich since I hadn't done any altitude adjustments yet. Not getting it anymore. Back windw for sure solved the fumes situation. Going to tackle the rebuilt carb once I get the valve cover leak and timing sorted
bobm
WTF, WTF, WTF!!!!
Shouldn't need sealant on valve cover! Most important is the valve cover itself is nice and flat all around . Doing great Bud keep it up 
. Doing great Bud keep it up 
I like to use this on one side of a cork gasket....
www.permatex.com
Permatex® Aviation Form-A-Gasket® No. 3 Sealant Liquid
Slow-drying, non-hardening brush-top sealant approved for use in aviation as well as automotive applications. Temperature range -65°F to 400°F (-54°C to 204°C); resists gasoline, oil and grease.
www.permatex.com
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #111
Trying!Shouldn't need sealant on valve cover! Most important is the valve cover itself is nice and flat all around
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Cody,
Do you need the ousting studs that go through the insulator? I can add them to the box, no extra shipping charge.
Do you need the ousting studs that go through the insulator? I can add them to the box, no extra shipping charge.
- Thread starter
- #113
Hey Mark. I meant to ask that. I don't have studs. Just the bolts in the pics. I figured I could.pick them up but if you have them, toss em in!
Thx
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Studs and flange nuts will be added. $7 PayPal.
- Thread starter
- #115
Excellent..I'll send it now. Thx for thinking of it!
- Thread starter
- #116
Another day,.another two step dance! Tackled the top drivers door hinge today. I tried the kit equal to the Napa one from AutoZone mentioned in one of the threads on here. Long story, the middle part of the hinge hole was just too big and it was still loose. I happened upon a bolt and long cylinder like nut in my tool box that fit perfectly! Crazy how well the solution worked out but Im going to just get a new hinge I'd it starts to wear out over time. I feel like it's actually pretty solid. Should have taken pics!
And the back step... Guessing the new water pump's extra flow has the front heater core leaking ever so slightly. Gotta pull it and see if it's fixable or needs to be replaced. There's always a little bit of coolant under front heater when I get in. It's not much but hope to have the heater as I'm gonna need it the next month or so!
RUSH55
SILVER Star
I want to say a 5/16” bolt will work. That’s what I used to re-pin my front doors. Slid some heat shrink over them to provide a little anti-friction action.
- Thread starter
- #118
Having a heck of a time to get this valve cover to seal. It was dry as a bone before I pulled it. Checked it on the garage floor while off and it's pretty damn flat. Have the new gasket and used the stuff rrecommended by Scrappdaddy above. I put that on the cover side and that side of the gasket to get it to stick to the cover while I seated it. Went finger tight then a little more with a ratchet. Ran it. Leaks all-around so I went tighter. Better, but leaks on one side. Pulled the inch/pound torque wrench out and set it to 5lbs and did that all around. Shocked how much more I had to spin it to get to 5lbs. The cover being thin metal had a little give and the new rubber caps gave a little too. I didn't want to go to far and honestly at 5 lbs it's farther than I would have probably gone without the torque wrench. It was better, but one spot still leaked a tad. Tightened it there and I think it's good but need another long run to make sure. If not, do I pull it and start over? New gasket? Re-clean? New cover? Can't believe this stupid thing is giving me so much trouble! Noob stuff I suppose!
bobm
WTF, WTF, WTF!!!!
Give it time , run it, and let the Heat help seal it 
- Thread starter
- #120
Will do!Give it time , run it, and let the Heat help seal it
