New 1fz-fe owner (94) (1 Viewer)

[Spruce]

You might also need to bleed you load sensing proportional valve.

The box of parts that came with this truck actually has an OEM spare one of these I'd forgotten about. I should swap it out.....I hate ABS and generally stick to vehicles without it.

It's your thread, post away
I would shy away from the synthetic oil, these motor leak enough as it is !!
I would use that 10-30 you have.
I been running 20-50 because I think a thicker oil work better in a motor with 280k on it.

Right on. I'll run a mechanical gauge again to see if the pressure is alright with it in there. This truck has 203 on the dash, but the PO was convinced it had been rolled back for some reason. I couldn't get out of him why he thought that, but as I've mentioned, he was not a stable fella.

What does your oil cap say on it?

I use QS 5W30 Dino oil. I DD 15K-20K miles per year.
I use Goodyear Duratrac tires in 285/75-16
I use Toyota red coolant (not the generic green)
I always fill up with 89 octane E-10 unless 87 octane no-ethanol is available.
I drive with 35 PSI in my tires. Sometimes 45 PSI.
I have an OME 2.5" lift with heavy springs front and rear.
I enjoy walks on the beach, holding hands, and stunning sunsets, just not with you.
I also enjoy a good cigar, a nice whiskey, and relaxing in front of a fire (that could be with you, just not specifically......)

This way we can get all those questions out of the way early.

Thanks. It's a 10w30 truck and I've driven roughly 2,200 miles total since March of 2020, so I'm not real worried about overworking the oil in an engine this cavernous. Huge fan of duratracs and run them on my TJ, but this truck came with brand new (still has the nubs) dynapro AT's so I'll either have to move them to my 4Runner or run them for a bit until I can justify new shoes. I have sweaty palms and sunburn easily, so the beach and holding hands isn't really my jam. I do like a decent (or low shelf) scotch and burning things though.

 

[mudgudgeon]

There both calling for a GL5
75-90 TC
80-90 Diff
We’re really Splitting hairs to say they’re not the same.


Cheers

That split hair matters in some instances.

May not matter for a USA spec cruiser?

So for the sake of curiosity . . .
Toyota specifies API GL-4 or GL-5 SAE 75W-90 for manual trans 80s
GL-5 is widely regarded as causing erosion of brass/copper synchromesh components and yellow metal bearings and bushings.

Manual trans in 80 series suffer from a notchy shift action, and early kids of effectiveness of synchro rings on 2nd & 3rd gear.
One solution is to run a GL-4 75W-85 oil. That slight reduction in viscosity makes a remarkable difference in shift action.
Aussie spec 80s have a synchromesh HF2A transfer.
I use the same GL-4 oil in both because of the synchros.
And a GL-5 75W110 Hypoid gear oil in the diffs (may be 75W140, would have to check the bottle)
I'm happy having a heavier oil being in a hot climate

 

[Broski]

We did not get that good stuff in the good old USA.
Very few from the other side of the pond on the board.
If you look at my other post with FSM specifications you well see that it's fine, and the OP has a us spec. 80

 

[Spruce]

Replaced the bleeders, but didn't have anyone to bleed it out so I decided to paint the wheels today. There's a few runs and some pitting I didn't fix, but they look better. Honestly, I put them back on the truck and they look good. Had to fix a leaking brake line in my 4Runner, so I didn't have much time to do anything more than this today. Tomorrow is probably going to be similar because of a family party making me drunk at 9am.

 

[Broski]

Have to say nice trick with the cards, Painted a few wheels in my time and never seen that before.

Wheres the picture with them on the truck ?

 

[Spruce]

Have to say nice trick with the cards, Painted a few wheels in my time and never seen that before.

Wheres the picture with them on the truck ?

It was almost pitch black and I had to convince my 5 year old to hang around and bounce a ball while her mom was working on her thesis. I'll get a pic tomorrow for certain.

 

[FMC80]

Have to say nice trick with the cards, Painted a few wheels in my time and never seen that before.

Wheres the picture with them on the truck ?

3x5 index cards work well and are cheaper.

 

[Spruce]

3x5 index cards work well and are cheaper.

Ive used these 5 times...index cards get saturated with paint and end up not being cheaper!

 

[Fj80oregon]

Replaced the bleeders, but didn't have anyone to bleed it out so I decided to paint the wheels today. There's a few runs and some pitting I didn't fix, but they look better. Honestly, I put them back on the truck and they look good. Had to fix a leaking brake line in my 4Runner, so I didn't have much time to do anything more than this today. Tomorrow is probably going to be similar because of a family party making me drunk at 9am.

View attachment 3048648

If your bleeding brakes solo take a Gatorade bottle with a hole in the cap and put the hose in it with a foot of hose fill bottle till hose is submerged hook other end of hose to bleeder and make sure it’s above the caliper. Now you can bleed away solo pump brakes making sure to not drain reservoir. Check bottle periodically to make sure you do not over fill. Now no more excuses bleed those brakes!!

 

[FMC80]

Ive used these 5 times...index cards get saturated with paint and end up not being cheaper!

Nice. Solid tip then. You cheap bastard

 

[Spruce]

If your bleeding brakes solo take a Gatorade bottle with a hole in the cap and put the hose in it with a foot of hose fill bottle till hose is submerged hook other end of hose to bleeder and make sure it’s above the caliper. Now you can bleed away solo pump brakes making sure to not drain reservoir. Check bottle periodically to make sure you do not over fill. Now no more excuses bleed those brakes!!

LOL, excellent but my wife is usually in to help as the other. She's just gonna defend soon. I gravity bleed sometimes but never like it as much as the "Up" "Down" bleeding

 

[Spruce]

Nice. Solid tip then. You cheap bastard

Pack of cards is like $2. Tell me it doesn't work better than index cards next time you paint wheels and I'll zip my lip

 

[FMC80]

Pack of cards is like $2. Tell me it doesn't work better than index cards next time you paint wheels and I'll zip my lip

I believe you, I’m just ****ing with you.

 

[Spruce]

Looks good as far as concerned

 

[Spruce]

god damn 80's are pretty vehicles.

 

[Comet]

Yup. Ain’t they pretty.

 

[Spruce]

Finished up bleeding the brakes and they're pretty good. Still need to engage the ABS and rebleed, but it's driveable.....well it was. Was doing the plugs today and it looks like the plug boot or insulator or whatever you'd call the rubber tip on the end of the coil closest to the firewall got stuck in the cylinder. Any sage advice on getting it out of there? I tried to snap the coil in and pop it out a few times but it's stuck in there good. My only thought is to put some epoxy on the coil and let it set up then give it a wiggle and hope it comes out....I am not real thrilled with the idea of glue that close to one of the cylinders, so before I do it I figured I should ask the audience.

Kind of a crappy picture, but it tells the story well enough.

 

[ZackR]

When that happened to me I used a pick with sharp angled end to pull it out. It has to be sharp enough to get into the rubber.

 

[mudgudgeon]

Random pic from Mr Bezos, but a set of mechanic's picks are priceless

 

[Spruce]

So you're telling me not to just attack it with a hole saw?? I grab a long set of picks and some 11" pliers on my way home from the gym this morning. I soaked it in some PB last night and today so hopefully whatever's stuck has been lubed. Cylinder 6 is a true pita to get at, may have to pull the hood off