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I think you’d know if they were clicking. If they’re not, I’m sure they’re fine and could just use a good servicing. However, you won’t really know until you get in there. If you have the money to spare, it’s not like it hurts to replace them and know you’re 100%, but my guess is it’s not necessary. For now I would just check the grease level like you said, and top off as necessary before you do the rebuild.
Money to spare is one of those things right? I'm gonna pull it apart and grease it.....if it blow sup when I'm on a trail some day I'll just decide I was wrong. I apprecaite the info that that youtube was awesome. the rebuild itself is about $400 which is pennies compared to what I assumed it was gonna be.
 

Broski

I love Wheelin my 80
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If they are clicking you would hear it when making a u turn with the window down.
Just mark them and put them on the opposite side then what they were on giving them new life ;)
 
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If they are clicking you would hear it when making a u turn with the window down.
Just mark them and put them on the opposite side then what they were on giving them new life ;)
They are not clicking....I've got some sounds I don't like but most of them are whining and I'm sure they're from pumps that hate having 200,000 mile bearings. Thank you!
 
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If they are clicking you would hear it when making a u turn with the window down.
Just mark them and put them on the opposite side then what they were on giving them new life ;)
Starting to get my parts in, and I'm hoping to get the knuckle job started this weekend. How important is it to regrease the birfs? I forgot to order new snap rings and the most local dealer (30 miles) doesn't have them handy. If it's something that absolutely should be done with every knuckle service, I'll have to order some and wait on them to come in. Side note - is it at all possible to shoot some grease in there without pulling the birf from the shaft?

Side Side note to anyone who happens to read this - Have any of you replaced the factory sub with a low profile 8"? Ive read some threads on here where people have used a modified bracket for an open air sub, but I've had miserable luck with those and much prefer enclosed. There's a guy local selling some low profile MTX 8's and small form amp for $50 and even a very thin MDF box would give better sound. Obviously not as important as the AC or the leaking axle seal, but it's something I can work on in the meantime.
 

Broski

I love Wheelin my 80
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The Birfs are hand packed, and yes you can do it with out pulling the axles. I still recommend soaking them in diesel you just need more diesel in the bucket if you leave them in one peace.
If your going to do a knuckle job it makes sense to repack the birfields !!

I would check with Cruiser Outfitters they probably stock the rings and can ship them out right away. Great company to work with !! Great customer service and fast shipping !!

Cheers
 
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The Birfs are hand packed, and yes you can do it with out pulling the axles. I still recommend soaking them in diesel you just need more diesel in the bucket if you leave them in one peace.
If your going to do a knuckle job it makes sense to repack the birfields !!

I would check with Cruiser Outfitters they probably stock the rings and can ship them out right away. Great company to work with !! Great customer service and fast shipping !!

Cheers
Thanks. I'll soak em and take them to the car wash in the ghetto where no one will question what I'm doing. I'll repack them as well as I can and swap driver to passenger & vice versa.
 

Broski

I love Wheelin my 80
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If you soak them diesel you can just blow them out with air. Again I don't recommend using water !!
 
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You'll still have to disassemble the birfield/ axle in order to switch sides since the diff is offset.

When I did mine last year, I left the birf's and axle together and soaked in diesel for several days, then rinsed with gasoline, and finally brake cleaner then let drip dry over night. They came out super clean, no need for pressure washer. Then I re-greased and re-installed with new bearings and seals from Cruiser Outfitter's.
 
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If you soak them diesel you can just blow them out with air. Again I don't recommend using water !!
No kidding? My dad always used to use gas/diesel to clean stuff but I've never done it. That makes things 100x easier actually....I've got an old kiddie pool i use to catch coolant on an old car that I couldn't get the petcock loose on. I'll just blow the goop into that. I love these tricks to make stuff easier.
 
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You'll still have to disassemble the birfield/ axle in order to switch sides since the diff is offset.

When I did mine last year, I left the birf's and axle together and soaked in diesel for several days, then rinsed with gasoline, and finally brake cleaner then let drip dry over night. They came out super clean, no need for pressure washer. Then I re-greased and re-installed with new bearings and seals from Cruiser Outfitter's.
When you repacked them, did you just kinda smoosh moly in there until they were mostly full?
 

Broski

I love Wheelin my 80
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While I'm waiting for my axel nut socket to come in I decided I would replace the stereo figuring it would be a 2 hour job. Well one of the pervious owners cut the factory wire harness so I soldered and heat shrunk blade clips on the ends of all the important wires (12V, Ground, all speaker outs) and connected a stereo. It booted up and worked fine for a bit and then wouldn't power back on....I figured it just died but when I checked the voltage I as only get 1.3v at the stereo supply. I started digging around on the internet and didn't see a ton, but went back out there and the stereo fired right back up...figured it was just one of those things. Well, I turned it off and now I'm getting 1.3v again. I think MY wiring job is pretty good, but I can't figure out what's happening. Is it getting shorted somewhere? Grounded? Any ideas?
 
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I should add that the battery is at about 12.3v with the ignition off and 14.5 on. Strangely the constant (blue/yellow according to the wiring diagram I found) is showing like 0.13v . I don't think it matters, but I unplugged the factory amp too.

This may be something to make a seperate thread about, but I don't want to clutter the board up.
 
Joined
Jul 2, 2019
Messages
90
Location
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I should add that the battery is at about 12.3v with the ignition off and 14.5 on. Strangely the constant (blue/yellow according to the wiring diagram I found) is showing like 0.13v . I don't think it matters, but I unplugged the factory amp too.

This may be something to make a seperate thread about, but I don't want to clutter the board up.
Clock is also not working....dome fuse is good
 

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