New 1998 LX 470 Owner (1 Viewer)

Joined
Oct 29, 2020
Messages
42
Location
Vermont
Are you tackling your own body work on the rust spots? Mine has the same rot behind the rear wheels that will need to get patched, so I'm curious to see how you handle it. Check carefully behind the front wheels, I had a soft spot there as well. Also the frame crossmember above the spare wheel, and the passenger side front sway bar mount - all known crust magnets!
 
Joined
Feb 2, 2021
Messages
96
Location
Louisville, KY
Are you tackling your own body work on the rust spots? Mine has the same rot behind the rear wheels that will need to get patched, so I'm curious to see how you handle it. Check carefully behind the front wheels, I had a soft spot there as well. Also the frame crossmember above the spare wheel, and the passenger side front sway bar mount - all known crust magnets!
Thank you sir! Yes I'll do my own grind and fill. I'm just making my way around the truck now and yes, I've seen behind the front wheel well as well. Surprisingly they aren't as bad as the rear. All in all I got pretty lucky given it's history. I'll check the cross member ASAP. Most of the undercarriage looked solid. The rails and tubs look good. There is some flaking where the body attaches to the outer frame, but mostly solid. As far as fill. I will back it with aluminum and pop rivet and grind down the rivets after the fiberglass sets up. This is all theory now of course. First - stop the madness. I'll make may way over every square inch and grind, primer, paint, repeat. I'd rather get it out now and fill it when the weather warms up. Fortunately most of the "spots" are covered with trim so my "coke can aluminum and pop rivet method" will be covered. I've used this method successfully on many DYI body jobs. I cut a piece of aluminum a bit bigger than the hole left by the rust. Make it overlap enough to get a good size pop rivet between the edge of the aluminum and the hole. Drill a whole and place the "patch" behind the hole. Set your rivets - fill with fiberglass, let it set up and then start sanding. You can actually use a dermal or grinder to grind down the rivet head if you like. Once the Bondo sets up, the rivet is inessential. It simple hold the "back" in place. Though I suspect it does add some strength... the point is it's main point is to hold the patch in place. I must add this is not necessarily for rust spots that will show... I primarily use this method on places that will be covered with body trim. It's not the perfect method, but it's fairly easy and holds.

There is the undercarriage:
1CF94ACD-75B0-4BA6-B1F1-A121E8EDE3CF.jpeg
C9ABEBFF-079C-41C4-B1CE-A57A0DA8513C.jpeg
B8D2F3A4-4B46-4DA4-BCF5-3EBA3B1CEFD6.jpeg
84C62FCC-C3D7-4560-8A6A-A8BC9B9B7406.jpeg


F41D73CA-1608-4A11-8D43-FDE6B3CFC2F4.jpeg
 
Last edited:
Joined
Feb 5, 2021
Messages
44
Location
Tampa
Congrats on the lx its a good buy at a great price. the front rotors are a pain to replace so if resurfacing is an option than go for it.
 
Joined
Feb 2, 2021
Messages
96
Location
Louisville, KY
Something strange happened today - I took the LX around the block this morning and down to the gas station to top off. Ran like a top - parked it. Came back 3 hours later turns over (strong) no fire. I try three times several minutes apart. Nothing - long story sort - call AAA (free tow) they show up. Starts right up like nothing happened. He had pulled it slightly forward was the only change and I though “I’ll try one more time” and of course it starts. Long story longer -
I had him drop it down the street at our long time, trusted mechanic who I had just spoken to earlier about doing the belt and water pump. We discussed getting it in for a look at some codes too and and exhaust leak- so I say “drop it at Paul’s.” We trust Paul - we like Paul - Paul has been working on Toyota’s for 35 years 2 miles from my house. Paul is the last of a dying breed in this country - a good honest mechanic that makes a living by doing quality work. Anyway I digress - Paul will be the guy doing the heavy lifting mechanically and I’ll do the less crucial mechanical (I’m 53 and I don’t mind turning a wrench but I don’t want to do things out of my comfort zone literally - that’s why I have Paul - did I mention him? I like to pay I’ll give Paul my stimulus check when I get one. He does some other things I do. Which means he tells me “hey do this next it’s not that hard.” Power steering pump flush for example. Anyway - Paul will tell me tomorrow and it will be the truth. So any guesses in the meantime would be kind of fun. I say intermittent fuel pump. The new gas top off is interesting too. No doubt I’ll wake up early wondering. I may have him go ahead and do the belt and water pump since that was first anyway. He quoted around $900. Anyway more later.
 
Last edited:

flintknapper

SILVER Star
Joined
May 22, 2004
Messages
9,521
Location
Deep East Texas
Something strange happened today - I took the LX around the block this morning and down to the gas station to top off. Ran like a top - parked it. Came back 3 hours later turns over (strong) no fire. I try three times several minutes apart. Nothing - long story sort - call AAA (free tow) they show up. Starts right up like nothing happened. He had pulled it slightly forward was the only change and I though “I’ll try one more time” and of course it starts. Long story longer -
I had him drop it down the street at our long time, trusted mechanic who I had just spoken to earlier about doing the belt and water pump. We discussed getting it in for a look at some codes too and and exhaust leak- so I say “drop it at Paul’s.” We trust Paul - we like Paul - Paul has been working on Toyota’s for 35 years 2 miles from my house. Paul is the last of a dying breed in this country - a good honest mechanic that makes a living by doing quality work. Anyway I digress - Paul will be the guy doing the heavy lifting mechanically and I’ll do the less crucial mechanical (I’m 53 and I don’t mind turning a wrench but I don’t want to do things out of my comfort zone literally - that’s why I have Paul - did I mention him? I like to pay I’ll give Paul my stimulus check when I get one. He does some other things I do. Which means he tells me “hey do this next it’s not that hard.” Power steering pump flush for example. Anyway - Paul will tell me tomorrow and it will be the truth. So any guesses in the meantime would be kind of fun. I say intermittent fuel pump. The new gas top off is interesting too. No doubt I’ll wake up early wondering. I may have him go ahead and do the belt and water pump since that was first anyway. He quoted around $900. Anyway more later.

Fuel pump might be a good guess on your part. Water in the tank (from the fill up) might be another. If your fuel filter (external at engine compartment) has never been changed have him do that.

Rarely are there any 'codes' present pointing towards an impending fuel pump failure.....so don't be surprised if he finds none.
 

MDK

Can’t dance
SILVER Star
Joined
Oct 14, 2019
Messages
335
Location
Charlottesville, VA
Keep AHC, flush+refresh fluids (drain and fill - dont flush! The trans), replace old hoses+bushings+Serp belt, coolant temp sensors, PCV valve, TB/WP, fluid film the frame, then you’ll be ready to rip. OEM everything you can, but superpro poly bushings are sweeet. Make friends with your local toyota parts dept. It sounds lame to say “OEM everything! o_O“ but these trucks were not built to run on lesser equipment.


also
:flipoff2:
 

suprarx7nut

The YotaMD Guy
Supporting Vendor
Joined
Sep 28, 2010
Messages
3,865
Location
Colorado
Wow, that is pretty rusty. AHC might be a bear to keep up as lines start to fail. I wouldn't fault you for making the switch to a conventional setup, but perhaps you'll get lucky and have years of healthy hydraulics ahead of you.

I'm intrigued to hear the mechanic's findings. Agreed on your sentiment towards a good mechanic. The good ones are worth an army of mediocre ones. Good luck!
 
Joined
Feb 2, 2021
Messages
96
Location
Louisville, KY
Wow, that is pretty rusty. AHC might be a bear to keep up as lines start to fail. I wouldn't fault you for making the switch to a conventional setup, but perhaps you'll get lucky and have years of healthy hydraulics ahead of you.

I'm intrigued to hear the mechanic's findings. Agreed on your sentiment towards a good mechanic. The good ones are worth an army of mediocre ones. Good luck!
I planned on getting into the AHC globes, lines and actuator with a good cleaning / de -rusting and WD40 soaking pretty quick. The level in the reservoir is moving just won’t go up. It will go into low and back into nuetral once it starts moving - I’m being optimistic I know but it shows the same characteristics as the others I’ve seen in videos that simple needed proper service. So fingers crossed. I’m going to get on the rust ASAP rest assured. I’ve been pretty lucky so far. If it’s unserviceable I’ll wait until it fails I guess and spring for springs lol.
 

suprarx7nut

The YotaMD Guy
Supporting Vendor
Joined
Sep 28, 2010
Messages
3,865
Location
Colorado
I planned on getting into the AHC globes, lines and actuator with a good cleaning / de -rusting and WD40 soaking pretty quick. The level in the reservoir is moving just won’t go up. It will go into low and back into nuetral once it starts moving - I’m being optimistic I know but it shows the same characteristics as the others I’ve seen in videos that simple needed proper service. So fingers crossed. I’m going to get on the rust ASAP rest assured. I’ve been pretty lucky so far. If it’s unserviceable I’ll wait until it fails I guess and spring for springs lol.
I think a set of globes from a well-priced vendor (Impex is the recent favorite) is a safe investment. If you install new globes and scrap the system a month later, I imagine you can pretty easily sell those globes for what you paid. They retail in the US for something insane/immoral like $4k for a set so there's a real wide margin between the best deal and the common deal.
 

LndXrsr

AHC Aficionado
SILVER Star
Joined
May 3, 2020
Messages
337
Location
Cincinnati
Oh man, Smokey Topaz with gold badges. This truck is so 1998 and I love everything about it. Glad to see you're working to keep her alive and well. Following along.
 
Joined
Feb 2, 2021
Messages
96
Location
Louisville, KY
Oh man, Smokey Topaz with gold badges. This truck is so 1998 and I love everything about it. Glad to see you're working to keep her alive and well. Following along.
Indeed! Hopefully I can keep her pretty stock. My end game is a tow vehicle for our 16 foot Scamp and or our 22 foot Sailboat. We will likely will keep the miles under 7k or less a year. Maybe under 5k. I just wanted something we could rely on and build up over time. I believe with all of my heart (and this is coming from a Jeep XJ guy) these are the new "Wagoneer" of our time. With a lot more bells, whistles and dare I say it. Style. They are definitely at the bottom of the value curve right now and only going up from here. Hopefully I can get all the rust issues under control quickly... there will be. issues I'm sure along the way but at least I won't be throwing money away.
 
Joined
Feb 2, 2021
Messages
96
Location
Louisville, KY
So the verdict is in. Bad Key. At least it goes in and out. So that would explain the reason it started before we loaded it up. I've attached the report with the code. It obviously has some of the other maintenance requirements listed. I'm going to have him start with belt and pump next month and hit some of these other issues as we go forward. I assume he could do the value cover leak when he does the belt and pump.
IMG-0493.jpg
 
Joined
Feb 2, 2021
Messages
96
Location
Louisville, KY
Greetings - let me start right out the gate by describing why and how I came to realize “This Might Be My Truck” as quickly as possible.

My partner and I are avid sailors and own a small Scamp RV. We currently drive a 2006 Jeep Commander 4.7. It’s been a decent truck (though the reason I’m leaving the XJ platform is entirely build and quality issues). I’m probably like many of you (Mom gets the nice new Honda CRV and Dad get the 15 year old toy hauler). That being said, I’ve never minded. In fact I kind of like the idea of an older TV... the dings and scratches just mean we live right! I’ve always found trucks with reasonable miles and searched for good deals always buying from individuals not dealer. I do some of my own maintenance, though I leave the tuff stuff to the experts.

So the Commander is getting “that oily smell” we all dread and I fear she has pulled our boat to the lake for the last time. We got our money’s worth - bought her 4 years ago for $3550 with new tires and away we went! She had made 6 trips towing to Florida. She had taken us to the lake and campsites faithfully in that time span.... But I’ve replaced a few parts along the way I.e. radiator, starters, brakes, alternator... lots of new parts went into a vehicle that in every experts opinion “isn’t worth rebuilding.”

Like I said I get very attached to my trucks . I don’t want to buy a used one every 4 or 5 years and a new one capable of what we need well.... that’s insane! I’ll put 50k in my 401k first!

So I made the decision to buy something we can drive now and build up over time. Hell I’ve even looked at Ford Powerstroke Diesels! Then I discovered the LX 470!!! Game on! Of course we ALL new about the Land Cruisers - my step son has an FJ 80 and he said “you should check out the 470. I did and to wrap this up - I just paid (or will pay tonight) $4300 for a 22 year old SUV with 233k on it!

Im literally lying awake wondering “what I’ve done? I know according to the market (I rarely see them for this price) I got a good deal but wow - I’ve always considered this number on the dash of a Jeep or Ford about the point they leave you stranded. But I’ve done my homework and understand - it’s about the service schedule and not the miles. CarFax is clean and shows a good maintenance history. The owner says there is one check engine light on from a small exhaust leak and one of the front rotors may be slightly wrapped, though he drives it everyday now. What’s a set of rotors installed typically run? Should I claw back $300 and shoot him 4K when I go meet him? I feel like $4300 was fair based on my research and where the market is and his discretion of the trick. Obviously it’s based on seeing and driving tonight... what are the other things I need to look out for? I heard the air shocks can get wonky but that I should repair not replace. Is it a reasonable assumption that if I buy this and have the brakes addressed that this could be be “our last truck?” We are in our early 50’s and will put about 5 to 7k a year on it and if she goes - we don’t mind rebuilding the engine, if god forbid it goes. We really don’t mind being that crazy old couple with the sailboat and the Land Cruiser with a million miles on it!

Sorry for the epic post - just thought you needed to full understand our intentions before we get started. I believe I’m going to get it tonight so ALL FEEDBACK IS ENCOUAGED! SOMEONE TRY TO STOP ME!
TechStream on its way! I ordered a copy of TechStream this weekend and am dusting off a an old laptop. Hopefully I can get started on the AHC now! Thanks for the great advice!
F28984C8-A183-4426-996C-B683FFDD5788.jpeg

The previous owner dropped this off long with the title. He’s a good kid - looks like he had big plans for the truck.
 
Joined
Mar 4, 2021
Messages
14
Location
Miramar,fl
Indeed! Hopefully I can keep her pretty stock. My end game is a tow vehicle for our 16 foot Scamp and or our 22 foot Sailboat. We will likely will keep the miles under 7k or less a year. Maybe under 5k. I just wanted something we could rely on and build up over time. I believe with all of my heart (and this is coming from a Jeep XJ guy) these are the new "Wagoneer" of our time. With a lot more bells, whistles and dare I say it. Style. They are definitely at the bottom of the value curve right now and only going up from here. Hopefully I can get all the rust issues under control quickly... there will be. issues I'm sure along the way but at least I won't be throwing money away.
I agree on the lowest in value curb. These rigs will start going up in price in the coming years. Specifically if they truly stop bringing the land cruiser stateside.
 

flintknapper

SILVER Star
Joined
May 22, 2004
Messages
9,521
Location
Deep East Texas
TechStream on its way! I ordered a copy of TechStream this weekend and am dusting off a an old laptop. Hopefully I can get started on the AHC now! Thanks for the great advice!View attachment 2586423
The previous owner dropped this off long with the title. He’s a good kid - looks like he had big plans for the truck.


Good deal. There should a be Second Volume to go with that (if you don't have it). Also a EWD (Electrical Wiring Diagrams issue).

IF you plan to keep the vehicle long term and do most of your own maintenance and repair, a good investment.
 
Joined
Jul 18, 2015
Messages
180
Location
Wilmington, NC
Have you tackled the rust on the rear hatch left by the chrome trim piece? My trim piece fell off and there’s some rust but not as severe as yours. My big issue is that hard as crap, old, dried up tape is near impossible to remove. I’ve tried almost everything short of grinding it away and subsequently grinding “good” paint that isn’t rusted.

I can’t get that damn glue off!
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Top Bottom