New 100 series owner. What is this part called and how do I fix the leak (1 Viewer)

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Probably so. The bummer is that they didn’t really do any work under there besides the shocks/springs. It needs a full refresh of underside bushings front and back. I think I’m going to pull and replace the upper and lower control arms in the front and back and do front and back sway links and torsion bar bushings. Anything else I should look at while I’m in there?

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Probably so. The bummer is that they didn’t really do any work under there besides the shocks/springs. It needs a full refresh of underside bushings front and back. I think I’m going to pull and replace the upper and lower control arms in the front and back and do front and back sway links and torsion bar bushings. Anything else I should look at while I’m in there?

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Nice that they installed the stainless brake lines. If your rubber is age cracked like that and you're going to have the front control arms out, that's a good time to replace the motor mounts as well since you'll have a little easier access. Also the transmission mount in the rear, and the differential bushings. Also, the front LCAs have one bushing in the arm and one in the frame, so you'll want to plan to replace the frame mounted one as well. There are some good write ups for all of that in the 100 series tech section.
 
Perfect. That’s the kind of stuff I’m looking for once I’m in there.

I was going to get entire new LCA and UCAs for the front. Seems like Toyota didn’t want the ball joints out and the options are either full OEM replacements or low quality press in options.
 
Perfect. That’s the kind of stuff I’m looking for once I’m in there.

I was going to get entire new LCA and UCAs for the front. Seems like Toyota didn’t want the ball joints out and the options are either full OEM replacements or low quality press in options.
The 555 LCA ball joints are good quality replacements. Just depends on your budget versus your time. Even if you go with new LCAs, you'll still need to purchase that other bushing for the frame.
 
I assume these two hoses carry fuel? Is that something that I can just buy and replace from an auto part store? They’re both so brittle.

Here’s a pic of my PCV valve. I’m having a P0420 code, so before I replace the cats I’m trying to figure everything out upstream. I’m also going to clean my MAF sensor. Air filter was just replaced recently.

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I assume these two hoses carry fuel? Is that something that I can just buy and replace from an auto part store? They’re both so brittle.

Here’s a pic of my PCV valve. I’m having a P0420 code, so before I replace the cats I’m trying to figure everything out upstream. I’m also going to clean my MAF sensor. Air filter was just replaced recently.

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Your PCV is under vacuum and carries crank case vapors back to your intake. In this picture, it looks like the inner hose is completely broken. That will definitely mess up your air/fuel mix!
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Yeah. It definitely is. On both ends. Any chance you know what the hose behind it is? That one is just as bad.
 
Any chance the PCV valve being damaged could cause a skip/hesitation issue @ 1800RPMs under mild acceleration? Under hard acceleration, there is no skip/hesitation. No codes showing and searched for nested codes... nada
 
There’s a possibility that it could be the PCV valve. It’s an easy thing to check and clean or completely replace. You can search PCV valve on the forums and there’s bound to be a great write up on how to get to it. I’d link one if I had it, but I didn’t look.
 
There’s a possibility that it could be the PCV valve. It’s an easy thing to check and clean or completely replace. You can search PCV valve on the forums and there’s bound to be a great write up on how to get to it. I’d link one if I had it, but I didn’t look.
Thanks for the quick reply. I was reading your post to see if I could lend any advice and posted my question in the wrong section. I see you got much better advice and information than I could have provided anyway. Best of luck with your LC! I love mine.... and all her problems!...
 
Mechanic found where the oil leaks are. First one is the oil filter housing and the second is the rear main seal. On top of the catalytic converter replacement it should take care of all of the issues I'm currently having and get me back to baseline. Next up is a full bushing refresh on the front and rear suspension.

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